71 Chevelle Repaint.

Mustang408

Mustang408

Member
I got a call to look at a car that needed some repaint work. Welllll... I've never seen this!
The owner told me that he put a Car Cover on the vehicle after he got it back from the painter. I didn't grill him but their might have been some water on the car when he covered it with fresh paint.
This he said happened about 2 years after the paint job was done.
The original shop did flow coat the clear for the stripes.



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My guess is bad body filler or improperly mixed filler, under those spots or if the whole car was re-cleared after the stripes, using too fine a grit to sand before the re-clear. Either way it's got to all come off. I'm sure the other guys here will add their thoughts as well.
 
Yes I plan to sand everything off the hood.
After looking at the car, the painter sent it home and the owner didn,t have a indore space fore it.
 
Just seems odd that the top of the fender/door doesn't appear to have any and around/under the door handle does? Either way that's gotta bite!

John
 
Where a car bubbles and the size of the bubbles is a giveaway as to why.
When I see the bubble and where along with size, I can give you one or two causes.

Why doors? It could be the small amount of moisture with the amount of time it was covered.
The doors look nothing like ceramic-coating leaves.

Another example is using lacquer thinner or acetone to clean, and they leave a smaller area
Such as 2 to 4 separate groups on a hood and usually 1 group on a deck lid.
 
crashtech said:
Well, I'm just horrified. I've never seen anything quite like that. That car has to be completely redone.
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You just don't know how common this is, I saw it happen to a 500-mile new cuda left covered outside for a weekend, and in that time, it drizzled at a glass shop.
Shop swore someone put paint stripper on the whole car that was covered in plastic sheeting.
 
Aromatic solvents, trapped moisture under body fillers or in them, and their vapor pressure. Got to come out in an imbalance--whether just after painting or years later if necessary. Spray on a nice high pressure barometric day and trap things under a thin surface layer skin too quick---they come out sometimes later than sooner on a low pressure day. It's usually low atmospheric pressure on a day that is raining. Cover the car in a tight fitting cover or plastic film --make a cocoon and you have something not in equilibrium with the atmosphere around it. Heat from the sun--you got an oven and trapped things come out fast................ flat surfaces the worst actors. This is a classic example of why solvents are not your "friends" as one very well respected poster on this forum here has said many times. Slow reducers have their own issues as do slow activators if people don't give them lots of time for controlled diffusion out. Not always the best choice.

Think your welds are not full of dissolved gases either -----cut one out and do a heated glycerin test with the weld submerged in liquid glycerin in a clear jar or beaker---watch the parade of gas bubbles come out years later after the welds are made. It looks like a bubble storm usually in the liquid there is so much. Or the welds can crack and it can come out all at once.
 
Wow! I had a car with tiny water blisters from being covered with an indoor cover for several weeks, but it was wet the whole time, but nothing like that.
 
Funny thing is I saw the pictures before reading the post and immediately thought “somebody had their car under a wet car cover.”
 
So, this is what I found under the bubbled finish. Sections of the hood with no bubbles, had no rust? Heavy bubbled ares I was able to blow everything off with my air nozzle. Rust was under the finish wherever the top coat bubbled. Not sure how moisture traveled back down to the metal? I have no idea about how the hood was painted, and if any epoxy before filler or primer.
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I have completely sanded the hood to bare metal, surface rust in the pitting was easy to remove before 2 coats of SPI epoxy. I will be leveling the hood with filler and polly primer before sealer and stripe layout. love the built in guide coat with the epoxy.

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This is why I tell potential customers that "those little spots" are often much worse than they appear.

My classic example is this '65 Buick Special quarter panel. Customer said it looked like it needed another skim coat because of some small cracks in the filler:

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Turned out this was a "cave and pave" repair as I call them. Where they had put a piece of a quarter panel over the rear section and attached it with sheet metal screws. Beat the screws with a hammer and then covered it with over an 1" of body filler.

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Yours is a much easier fix. Just be sure to remove all the rust.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
This is why I tell potential customers that "those little spots" are often much worse than they appear.

My classic example is this '65 Buick Special quarter panel. Customer said it looked like it needed another skim coat because of some small cracks in the filler:

View attachment 25011

Turned out this was a "cave and pave" repair as I call them. Where they had put a piece of a quarter panel over the rear section and attached it with sheet metal screws. Beat the screws with a hammer and then covered it with over an 1" of body filler.

View attachment 25012

Yours is a much easier fix. Just be sure to remove all the rust.
Click to expand...
someone got their bodywork edumucatin at the Rednek Kolluj Uv Oughtow Bodee Fixun Er UP!
 
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