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Senile Old Fart;15079 said:if i read this correct you shot straight DMD1683 black (mixing base for DBC) ?
crashtech;15085 said:Nothing wrong with that, imo. DBC doesn't take any weird additives to make it sprayable, it just needs a generous dose of activator or it gets brittle as hell.
Well that's good news. I've been using the DBC for alot of years and have never added any activator to it. Come to think about it i haven't seen chipping issues even on my 12 year old Buick paint job. I'm sure if it was driven every day of the year it might be a different story. Good thing it has the SPI epoxy primer and then clear on top of it....That will stop them damn stones...lolcrashtech;15093 said:Well, it's not like it's gonna crack and fall off. I've just seen a lot of DBC jobs long term, as I have worked at two local shops, one that used to use it and one that still uses it. I sprayed a lot of it myself.
What I have seen is the DBC jobs get more front end chips than some other brands, we have a real problem with stone chips here because they "sand" the roads with stuff that is more like rocks than sand. The bumper jobs I did while at the one shop have not seemed to have a problem, because I insisted on using DX57. These days I know that activated basecoat is appropriate for the whole vehicle, and I think that is how most of us here do things.
If the Buick is going to see limited road use and you don't live in a bad stone chip
area, it's probably not much of an issue. Nice thing about black is it touches up good.
crashtech;15100 said:I was thinking about this on the drive home this evening, and you know, chip resistance is a function of the entire paint job, not just the basecoat. I don't have ANY data to offer on a DBC job that has been applied over SPI epoxy with SPI clear on top. I'm sure the better products change things a LOT.
But in the future, you may wish to try activating the basecoat. You don't have to use DX57, 5% of your clear activator to RTS basecoat will help your base adhere better, remain more flexible, and be easier to repair if necessary.
Will PPG back you on warranty issues doing this? And won't this make it more like a DBU base coat? ThanksBob Hollinshead;15108 said:I activate the base every time, there's really no reason not to.
No i just do this for a hobby at home, It was just a question, how much are you guys adding per quart? and can i still use the SPI activator for the clear in the base coat? I think i read around 5%. Just want the best job i can put out there. At work we use PPG and we spend somewhere around 1 million on there product a year...I wonder if that makes us a mega user. We do around 12-15 million in paint work every year painting planes between both Duncan's ...wish it was all mine.crashtech;15121 said:I assume you are not an approved PPG shop, using PPG products all the way through. So they won't warranty your stuff anyway, why worry. And even if they did, if you are not a mega shop all you will get is some replacement material.
Also, Bob would never steer you wrong.