A few more newbie questions as I get closer to laying down some color…

MAKZ06

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Several more stupid questions from a newbie. This forum has been an invaluable resource for me the past few years. Getting closer to laying down the color in a 2-3 weeks if things go as planned, and am starting to stress over how bad I’ll screw this up…. Will be my first paint job and I don’t have the spraying experience or a proper paint booth. I’ve gotten pretty good at laying down the SPI epoxy but have no idea how the single stage will go down in comparison or how to make the adjustments to the gun (LPH400) or my technique and speed, etc. Still haven’t landed on a paint but have narrowed down to the Concept or Motorcryl. Inquired about Wanda but doesn’t sound like they have a blue that’s similar to the old Ford “Grabber” or “Bahama”. Still open to other suggestions. Life would be so much easier if SPI still made a Blue…
Last year the last work I completed was getting the two part seam sealer applied. I ran out of time and now have to go back over all of it to scuff, sand, and get a uniform contour/transition, etc. Then of course have to hit all the epoxy again with 180 and put down one last coat before the sealer.
* Is there any less expensive way for me to practice and get a feel for spraying the single stage other than using the expensive single stage I choose? Like will a can of SPI SS white or red spray like the Motocryl or Omni? Or does the epoxy at a certain reduction have the same spraying characteristics as the single stage?
* What reduction ratio should I use on the seal coat which will give me the longest window for applying the single stage color? Or, if I am already going to lay down a full-strength coat, can that just be blocked with 320 and I would have 7 days to put the color on top of that?
* Does the cutting and buffing need to be completed soon after the spray or can it be done months later?
That’s the last of my stupid questions for now but I’m sure the responses I get will prompt more. Thanks for the help and input.
 
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If possible, try to spray some smaller or interior parts to practice. Every brand, materials, will have slight differences in spraying characteristics. The longer the epoxy window, the shorter the reduction. Fool proof way spray a reduced coat as a final coat. Use it think as your first coat of paint. Have it prepped ready to paint. Shoot a 1:1:1 thin sealer coat after 30 minutes. A slightly heavier 1:1:.5 reduction, wait 1-2 hrs. to overnight. Cutting and buffing can be done 1 day to infinity. After a few days it gets harder, but it will help avoid deep sand scratches, edge burns, etc. A couple days in the sun before buffing works best for me
 
I picked up some SS PPG metallic in Bridgehamton Blue (a 71 Corvette color). Last week.
He mixed me 4 oz sample can for 8 bucks. I prepped a piece of metal for a spray out to see if I like the color and give me some practice with SS
 
If possible, try to spray some smaller or interior parts to practice. Every brand, materials, will have slight differences in spraying characteristics. The longer the epoxy window, the shorter the reduction. Fool proof way spray a reduced coat as a final coat. Use it think as your first coat of paint. Have it prepped ready to paint. Shoot a 1:1:1 thin sealer coat after 30 minutes. A slightly heavier 1:1:.5 reduction, wait 1-2 hrs. to overnight. Cutting and buffing can be done 1 day to infinity. After a few days it gets harder, but it will help avoid deep sand scratches, edge burns, etc. A couple days in the sun before buffing works best for me
I will practive first on the cab interior, door jambs, firewall, under the hood, backs of doors, etc I plan to eventually use bedliner in the bed but may practice on that too…
Thanks, that helps. I was definitely wanting to be able to spray the sealer and have several hours if not overnight to lay down the color.
 
I picked up some SS PPG metallic in Bridgehamton Blue (a 71 Corvette color). Last week.
He mixed me 4 oz sample can for 8 bucks. I prepped a piece of metal for a spray out to see if I like the color and give me some practice with SS
Which PPG line did you go with? Concept is recommend here in the forum but the paint shop closest to me was pushing the “essential“ line which the guys here told me to steer clear of.
 
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Which PPG line did you go with? Omni is recommend here in the forum but the paint shop closest to me was pushing the “essential“ line which the guys here told me to steer clear of.
Omni is junk. Nobody recommends it here. Shopline or whatever they call it these days is junk. If you are doing a SS, Motocryl is a good quality SS. Motobase is an excellent base. PPG stuff is either waaaaay overpriced (DBC, Concept) or it's junk (Omni, Omni+ Shopline etc)
Personally for the money it's hard to beat Motobase or Motocryl.
You can order it direct from Chad here on the forum or if you have a distributor in your area you can get it through them.

Chad's webpage

 
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Omni is junk. Nobody recommends it here. Shopline or whatever they call it these days is junk. If you are doing a SS, Motocryl is a good quality SS. Motobase is an excellent base. PPG stuff is either waaaaay overpriced (DBC, Concept) or it's junk (Omni, Omni+ Shopline etc)
Personally for the money it's hard to beat Motobase or Motocryl.
You can order it direct from Chad here on the forum or if you have a distributor in your area you can get it through them.

Chad's webpage

Yeah, sorry, I meant Concept, not Omni. Concept was definitely the high dollar one i was asking about and the shop was steering me away from. I went back and edited my post. I remember you had mentioned the Motobase before in one of my questions and I had emailed Autorod Tech Friday. I’m still interested in Wanda if they have anything close to a medium blue but am waiting for their response.
 
If you want a SS the Motocryl is a good product that is half the price of Concept. It is on par quality wise with Concept. Motobase (basecoat) is a favorite of some of the guys here. It covers really well, reminds me of Glasurit 55, and is a nice high quality product that again is half the cost of PPG DBC and others.
Chad should be able to mix any color you want.
 
If you want a SS the Motocryl is a good product that is half the price of Concept. It is on par quality wise with Concept. Motobase (basecoat) is a favorite of some of the guys here. It covers really well, reminds me of Glasurit 55, and is a nice high quality product that again is half the cost of PPG DBC and others.
Chad should be able to mix any color you want.
Chris do you know who all has sprayed the SS Motocryl on here? I may go that route since I am going solid color White. I guess I could start a new thread if necessary about it. Thanks.
 
I'm putting SPI white base on a car . Already sprayed some and I love it. Covered very well. Actually have used the SPI red also and I love it also.
 
Chris do you know who all has sprayed the SS Motocryl on here? I may go that route since I am going solid color White. I guess I could start a new thread if necessary about it. Thanks.
It sprays nice. I've only done a couple of overalls with it, but it sprays a little like Glasuirt 22 which is my all time fave. All SS urethane's are going to spray similar. I don't think you would be disappointed. And at half the cost of Concept and like 3/8's the cost of Glasurit, it is a good value.
 
It sprays nice. I've only done a couple of overalls with it, but it sprays a little like Glasuirt 22 which is my all time fave. All SS urethane's are going to spray similar. I don't think you would be disappointed. And at half the cost of Concept and like 3/8's the cost of Glasurit, it is a good value.
Thanks Chris I probably will post a new thread once I get closer to painting the car. Its been a very long time since I have done a complete too. I am going to panel paint it but I am sure I will need some more advice from you and others when time comes. :)
 
Which PPG line did you go with? Concept is recommend here in the forum but the paint shop closest to me was pushing the “essential“ line which the guys here told me to steer clear of.



Not sure. I was looking more for the color rather than the product. For 8 bucks I'm sure it was the cheapest.
 
Sure wish I could get a SPI Blue.
I talked to Andy (I think it was) at SPI several years ago about making a blue, at that time it was a possibility, but I see it has never happened. My thinking was since they have black, white, red & yellow, all I would need is blue to be able to make my own solid colors. If enough people ask, they still might do it.
 
I talked to Andy (I think it was) at SPI several years ago about making a blue, at that time it was a possibility, but I see it has never happened. My thinking was since they have black, white, red & yellow, all I would need is blue to be able to make my own solid colors. If enough people ask, they still might do it.
@Barry said that they used to make a blue but he stopped production. I even talked to a guy a couple years ago when looking at his collection (he used mostly the SPI Red) and he swore that I was wrong and they still produced Blue. Must be a really complicated process to manufacture various colors or I guess they would offer more. I don’t know how many gallons of a “special order” would make it cost effective for them to do a special run of blue or something that a distributor wanted.
I would use white, that would even help hide any of my bad paintwork, but it was my grandfather‘s truck and we all remember it in Blue…
 
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Chris do you know who all has sprayed the SS Motocryl on here? I may go that route since I am going solid color White. I guess I could start a new thread if necessary about it. Thanks.
Lone Star,
I by no means am a pro, expert or authority, but I can vouch for Motocryl. So far I have painted both sides of a hood and deck lid and just this Saturday afternoon I shot both sides of the doors pictured below. I can say after upping the fluid and readjusting the fan to suit the, 3rd coat laid down like glass. The 4th coat had peel, not any worse than many OEM finishes I have seen. I did all four coats 30 minutes apart using the 30-72 Med activator and reduced 10% w/SPI 885 slow reducer. Booth temperature was 74° give or take.

I can also vouch for Chad. Being inexperienced myself, he's easy to talk to. A lot of jobbers don't know what they're talking about and others that do, talk down to you or over your head. He's not like that and I can tell you that if he is unsure he won't bullshit.

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