A little worried about shooting sealer

Bumping a month old thread...sometimes when I've had those craters, they are superficial enough that I can just sand them out.
It might be overkill, but I always shoot unreduced epoxy and wet sand the entire thing with 600 (because I'm usually spraying metallic), then shoot base. When you're less than perfect like me, 600 gives you a perfect substrate for base, allowing a chance to remove all dust nibs, any minor peel, and any little craters that might have happened.
I’m not an expert but I don’t think you are getting the increased adhesion that using reduced epoxy sealer does. Hopefully Barry will weigh in.

Don
 
I was about to ask that same question. Better to put reduced epoxy sealer over sanded epoxy i thought
 
I’ve ever had an issue by spraying over sanded epoxy that’s a few days old - I will spray a quick reduced coat of epoxy though if I am taping off for stripes cause I have pulled up paint from the tape but never if I shoot a quick coat of reduced epoxy
 
I never reduce epoxy, never had any adhesion issues, even with taping, and that's with metal, plastic, or fiberglass.
 
I guess it has to do with timing. Are you sanding and shooting within the recoat window?

Don
When I spray epoxy as a sealer it's always right before base. Keep in mind I'm an amateur that does a few projects every year and don't want to come across more authoritative on the subject than I actually am. Though I've logged way too many hours of discussions with Barry that I probably have a Master's degree in SPI somewhere, lol. Even if I'm within the 7 day recoat window, I will still wet sand 600 to get the best possible substrate. But I've done it well outside of the 7 day window too, but because it's sanded.

I've told him before if my day gig goes back I can easily convert to a formulations scientist. :p
 
Back
Top