Acetone and Gasoline before SPI Cleaners

O

Outlaw

I removed some of that 40 year old brittle tar based sound deadner Ford used in 56 Ford Pickups on the back of the cab wall. It came off in sheets while other areas remain adhered to the sheetmetal and had to be scraped off with a sharp chisel. This left a tar like risidual on the sheetmetal that is very hard to remove. Gasoline helps, followed by acetone. Im getting ready to spray the panel with SPI Epoxy. I wiped everything down with a mixture of Dawn and water, rinsed, then wiped again with SPI 700. My question is by using the gasoline and acetone during the process of removing the original finish from the sheetmetal, am I in danger of an adhesion problem with the SPI epoxy, even though I did the final cleaning with SPI 700?
 
I find heating the stuff up and then scraping it off works much better. Did you try lacquer thinner? Using gasoline and/or Acetone sounds like a bad nightmare and serious safety hazard to me.
 
It all started before I was tuned into SPI. I started with heat and scraping, followed by gasoline to cut the material so I could wipe some of it off. Then washed with dawn soap and water solution. Then sanding disk but that melted and may have ground into sheet metal, then project sat for almost two years. Now I tried SPI 700 but it did not clean up the risidual, Probably should have ordered a gallon of the 710, but tried more dawn/water solution followed by SPI 700. That still left some risidual, so I tried acetone again, then soap and water, then SPI 700. The metal is looking pretty good, but Im nervous about spraying with SPI Epoxy since I have most likely driven some of the contaminants into the metal.
 
scour it with a scotchbrite and some solvent based wax and grease remover then follow that with the waterborne w&g remover and it's be fine
 
PPG DX330 might be available locally, using some of that on the surface would tell you if there was anything left. Acetone dries too fast. I'd try Xylene before Acetone if solvent based W&G remover is not available; the Xylene will hang around long enough to carry the residue onto your second wipe.
 
Thanks guys, I will order some SPI 710 and go over it with the scotchbrite.
 
Mineral spirits should cut the tar and stay wet for wipe up. A lot safer than gas. Do finish cleaning with SPI because the quality of hardware store mineral spirits and naphtha are suspect.
 
metalman;n72313 said:
Mineral spirits should cut the tar and stay wet for wipe up. A lot safer than gas. Do finish cleaning with SPI because the quality of hardware store mineral spirits and naphtha are suspect.
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After I removed the undercoating on the BelAir with a heat gun and chisel, I cleaned the residue with kerosene. It, like mineral spirits, does not dry quickly and will give you time to scrub it. Once I got it desolved and clean, I went over it repeatedly with solvent based W & G remover with what I thought were excellent results. Obviously, it is imparative to clean the oily residue well before priming no matter what you use to clean the under coating off.
 
great to know. Thanks for all the help. Sounds I did not get myself into a mess I can not get out of. Appreciate all the help!
 
DX330 (or equivalent) should be considered mandatory before you spray. Don't cheap out or you'll find yourself doing it all over again. Pre-cleaning is one of the most important steps.
 
SPI 700 and 710 is all you need, no sense in buying overpriced DX330 as it does not work any better
 
I have been using 700 regular, just never got into the 710 until now. I ordered some yesterday.
 
Bob Hollinshead;n72324 said:
SPI 700 and 710 is all you need, no sense in buying overpriced DX330 as it does not work any better
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So true, I guess I suggested it because some people can't wait for the SPI to ship. It is what you look for in an emergency.
 
Thanks for the option Crash, I put it in my notebook for future reference in case I have something that I need on a moments notice. You never know when something will come up and you need an option.
 
Torch with small welding tip in one hand and scraper in the other. Only way I've found it to be efficient. Propane torch would work also, I just have a very small oxy setup for welding/leading and it works good.
 
I have tried heat too, and that really helps soften up the gunk for easier removal. Still leaves behind that risidual coating that has to be removed before paint. Thats where I have trouble not driving it further into the metal. Once I ordered the SPI 710 and tried it it cuts right thru and removes it without having to grind it.
 
Would lacquer thinner be acceptable, if sanding with a da and 80 grit after wiping the area? Of course before epoxy I'll clean with 700..
 
We use Xylene, alternatively named Xylol, for clean up duty that needs something stronger than #710 Wax and Grease Remover. It's about $20-25/gal, but it dries a lot slower than cheap lacquer thinner and allows for residue to be wiped up before drying. It can be found in most hardware and home improvement stores.
 
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