Adding fake overspray to PPG DCC, or alternatively, I can't read a data sheet....

J

jtfx6552

Member
I'm trying to a concourse job on my 65 Mustang. Cars from the plant and date mine is from had black bottoms (not the ever popular red oxide), with a ton of body color overspray, basically the bottom is the same as the top other than up in the trans tunnel.

I was going to paint the bottom black DCC over SPI black epoxy. Then spray the white DCC overspray on the black DCC. Reading the PPG data sheet which can be found here, (click on the word english to the left of "view msds"under DCC):

http://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/product-Search.aspx?searchtext=dcc9300&searchmode=anyword The data sheet contains the note: DCC Color must be sanded before recoating with primer, color, or clear.

[FONT=tahoma, geneva, sans-serif]Does that mean I only have the 10-15 minutes listed under [/FONT]
[FONT=tahoma, geneva, sans-serif]"Between coats" to switch between the back and the white and add the overspray?[/FONT]

[FONT=tahoma, geneva, sans-serif]Or does the note right above the one saying recoating requires sanding, that says [/FONT]
[FONT=tahoma, geneva, sans-serif]Dry to recoat: Air Dry 8 hours at 70 Degrees F, mean I have 8 hours to add the overspray?[/FONT]

[FONT=tahoma, geneva, sans-serif]Depending on what the dry edges of the overspray look like, I might clear the whole mess with dulled SPI clear, do I have 8 hours to do that? (I think this is what most of the concourse guys are doing to make things look nice [/FONT][FONT=tahoma, geneva, sans-serif]although[/FONT][FONT=tahoma, geneva, sans-serif] it isn't the way the cars were done the first time around, obviously.)[/FONT]
 
The 10-15 minutes is the minimum flash time between coats. You comfortably have 30+ minutes. Do a test panel and make sure that you don't have any issues with applying one color over another. When you get done let the DCC flash 15-30 minutes (30 minutes would be better) then you can spray clear if you want. Waiting 8 hours would mean you would have to scuff it before you apply any clear. (Assuming your conditions are similar to the TDS sheet.) You really don't want to let more than 30-45 minutes go by before applying the next or different coat of DCC and/or Clear.
 
You won't have any problems, I usually shoot the main color and let it tack up good then come back with the other color and get the overspray where it needs to be then mist it a little with blending solvent to get it to melt in. Just a light mist coat of blender. no need to shoot any clear.
 
Thanks Bob!

Jobber had gallons, and spray bombs, no quarts. I elected to get a gallon, lol, probably would have been good with a spray bomb or two...

Not sure if I should start a new thread. Tech sheet says the DDC can be sprayed over 400 or 600 sanded surface? I'm doing the bottom of the car, lots of nooks and crannies, very hard to sand, very hard to get it completely clean before I shoot anything. Even when i do, something seems to blow out of somewhere.

Car is in black epoxy, (sprayed Wednesday) lots of nibs, some dry spots, one or two runs. My plan was to hit any spots that aren't perfect (other than the runs) with 400 dry, blow off, wipe down, tack and shoot the urethane. Or should I go 600 after the 400? For the runs I was going to cut them down with 80 or 180, then work up to 400 or 600.

Poking around here, I saw a thread (I should have saved it to link here) that said the multi day epoxy recoat window is only good for adding more primer, but going to base, it should be re primed or sealed with primer 1:1:1. Is that true if I'm going to spray single stage not "base"?

If I'm going to seal it, can I skip going to 600? (I don't have much 600 left and want to paint this weekend during the mid atlantic snow storm). I see a few threads saying that the sealer coat of epoxy can be covered in 15 minutes? Can it be covered that soon with singe stage, not just base?

What if I spray the epoxy un reduced for better flaw filling? I thought I had to wait a day to go over it?
 
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