Advice needed

S

Steves69LS3

Ok. I mixed some dbu with spi slow reducer 1:1 and added a really small amount of uv clear activator and just a few minutes after that the paint started to gum up. Should i not bother to activate this base??
 
Did Barry ever confirm if DBU can be activated for use with regular urethane reducer vs. reactive reducer?
 
Reading that thread the original poster had good luck when trying Barry's suggestion at 20oz reduced to one capfull of cat and I bet that's like 60:1. I know when old reactive reducer that's gone bad is added to DBU it will curdle. Can you buy DRR in your area? What ratio did you use?
 
Well i only mixed enough to do a 4x4 spray out card. So i only mixed to the 1/1 line on a quart sized mixing cup the i took the uv activator and only poured as much as you can spit on the ground. All my paint supplies are brand new
 
You might want to do some more accurate measuring.. how many lines are on the mix cup-you would need to divide divide that number into the volume of the catalyst can cap to be on the same ratio as what the user in the old thread did. Red Grizzly is in my cheek most of the day and I definately spit more than a capful.
 
Haha it may have been too much. There is 6 levels for the 1:1 ratio. I plan on mixing one quart of paint and adding one ounce of activator.
The spray out card i did looks great
 
What grit should i scuff the existing paint with? The color has the modern heavy metallic
 
If your using sealer 320 or a maroon scotchbrite would be the coarsest you could go, if you're painting without using a sealer then 600 or a grey scotchbrite. Better to err on the finer side when shooting metalics.
 
Just need to scuff existing clear coat. I have a ton of 600 so i will use that
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top