after epoxy is it necessary to seal it with reduced epoxy before paint?

F

form406

after spi epoxy is it necessary to seal it with reduced epoxy before paint?
 
I prefer to seal with reduced epoxy for couple of reasons.
1. If anything is wrong anywhere in my prep it will show up when spraying the reduced epoxy.
2. It locks down everything under it.
3. Provides a consistent color and surface to apply paint over.
 
form406;6191 said:
after spi epoxy is it necessary to seal it with reduced epoxy before paint?
Click to expand...

Unless you get right on it, nothing sticks to cured epoxy like epoxy....I will get flamed for this, but we don't go over 2 days without reapplying epoxy...PERIOD
 
cool. flame me too if needed, opposite of flynams, as for the epoxy paint window, after curing all my projects are stored in a cool place with zero uv, ill sand lightly and evenly, if i get that fresh epoxy smell, ill shoot the paint. anything after a couple of weeks and its been warm, and the fresh epoxy smell is on the light side, ill sand and re-seal it before paint...
 
[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;6219]I prefer to seal with reduced epoxy for couple of reasons.
1. If anything is wrong anywhere in my prep it will show up when spraying the reduced epoxy.
2. It locks down everything under it.
3. Provides a consistent color and surface to apply paint over.[/QUOTE]


Very good advice here.
 
What is the consensus on putting filler on epoxy - is it acceptable to put apply filler on cured, but well sanded epoxy?

I'm not sure if it's a good thing to do, but I've done it with no problems so far (flame as needed).
 
if the epoxy is more than 2 days old like flynams said, if your putting basecoat on it then your adhesion is going to be poor. after the 2 day point it just get worse and worse even if its sanded. its like putting base over sanded bare metal. it just doesn't stick. form if you put base down on week old epoxy, try taping on it. when you unmask the base is coming off with the tape.

strum, i have not had a problem with that. i also have not had a problem with 2k primers or sealers......just basecoat.
 
Thanks Jim,

Is there any time limit when you would NOT recommend putting filler over sanded epoxy? Am I still good on epoxy that is a year old?

What are your thoughts on putting Dolphin Glaze on unsanded Turbo 2k? I think remember someone saying this is a no, no.

I sand it just to be sure, but it would be so much easier not to sand it, so you can see your low spots easily when you are trying to get everything before the glaze kicks.
 
If you're putting filler on cured epoxy that's been sanded it will work and the bond will be as strong as the filler's mechanical adhesion provides, the bond strength of filler over fresh epoxy is better-akin to the the adhesion paint and primer has to epoxy at the perfect recoat time-you will not seperate this bond once the products reach full cure. Don't put any polyester products over unsanded urethane primers. If you're blocking and find low spots that need to be scuffed up for glaze and you still want to find them after they are scuffed just do a circular motion when scuffing these spots and they'll stand out compared to the straight sanding patterns from blocking-hope that made sense...
 
Thanks Bob,

Good idea about using a circular motion so you can see the low spots on the urethane! Also, thanks for the explanation on mechanical vs chemical adhesion. I really appreciate your advice.
 
form if you put base down on week old epoxy, try taping on it. when you unmask the base is coming off with the tape.
Click to expand...
form gets mild panic attack and is running to the garage to tape test a tank...
 
the tape test was on base applied to cured 7 day old epoxy parts stored @ 45 degrees, no uv exposure, that was lightly sanded right before base... whew... maybe its barrys quality black base (r.i.p.) and epoxy primer that helps adhesion. this base seems tough like epoxy. i did blue tape, put as much pressure as i could on the tape, rubbing tape in with my fingernail, even starting from an edge (fxr side cover) and pulled off hard...voila, excellent adhesion... whew...beer time. did the same thing on the tank and all good.

the tape test...how simple and how efficient. thanks again master c (bows)
 
Yes, spi base is ok. Its a bit different than most. Most bases are polyester. The spi stuff is a little more like ss than base. Much less polyester in it. If you had almost any other on there it would be comming off. watch yourself in the future with that. Also just putting tape on and pulling it off doesnt work. Base will usually start peeling at and edge or a cut in the base.
 
thanks so much. i thought the epoxy to base window was 7 days...and the few projects i have done have always used barrys black base except for one. i glad this subject came up again and i will be watching it in the future!
 
recoat window is supposed to be 7 days but with epoxy thats a real iffy thing. depends on a lot of factors. # of coats, temp, product going over it, etc. on any epoxy i have ever used, i have found adhesion to severely diminish after day 2.....for basecoat. its just safer and a good practice to get something on epoxies asap. better safe than sorry. really i don't worry about it too much because i always shoot a sealer coat just before my base. i am a believer in getting everything on quick then let it sit.
 
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