Air hose question - Very specific case

Evil_Fiz

Promoted Users
I have a Flexzilla 1/2" x 50' hose from the main regulator at the wall to the point of use. At the wall, the hose has a 1/2" Milton Type-G connector. At the point of use, It has a Milton high-flow 1/4" Type-V connector. The hose will be connected to a 1/4" TEE, via a high-flow 1/4" Type-V plug, which will feed a fresh air hood and continue to the spray gun via a 4' to 6' whip. The whip will be connected directly to the TEE via the 1/4" hose end threads. All my tools and spray guns have Milton high-flow 1/4" Type-V plugs.

- I accidentally purchased a Flexzilla 1/4" x 4' swivel end whip. I meant to purchase a 3/8" x 6" whip.
- Before I return it and order the 3/8" whip, can I get away with the 4' x 1/4" hose without adversely affecting the airflow to the gun?
- The "unintrusive: nature of the 1/4" hose will work well with my mini detail gun for all the tight spaces I need to paint. I am also using a full-size LVLP spray gun rated @ <6CFM for the conventional paintwork if that impacts your recommendations.
_ will be spraying Epoxy, high-build, base and clear, and possibly single-stage as well.

Thanks,
Emil
 
It would kind of defeat the purpose to jabe high flow up until the end and then choke it down it would seem. I use those high flow fittings on everything as well.

I wouldn’t be pulling fresh air for your respirator from your air compressor though.
 
It would kind of defeat the purpose to jabe high flow up until the end and then choke it down it would seem. I use those high flow fittings on everything as well.
I figured on that but want to get a consensus before I exchange it. My thinking is the short length may not have a significant impact. I'm not fixated on the hose but the unintrusiveness of it is appealing.

I wouldn’t be pulling fresh air for your respirator from your air compressor though.
I am using the "Dean Jenkins Special" Tyvec hood. I will be wearing a 3M half-face respirator with proper filters under it. The compressor pulls air from inside my house for air quality and moisture control (belt and Braces mentality going on). Is this a bad decision? I'm really good at bad decisions :mad:

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Emil
 
I figured on that but want to get a consensus before I exchange it. My thinking is the short length may not have a significant impact. I'm not fixated on the hose but the unintrusiveness of it is appealing.


I am using the "Dean Jenkins Special" Tyvec hood. I will be wearing a 3M half-face respirator with proper filters under it. The compressor pulls air from inside my house for air quality and moisture control (belt and Braces mentality going on). Is this a bad decision? I'm really good at bad decisions :mad:

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Emil
It's not about the air that the compressor intakes, it;s whats in the compressor output. Breathing compressor air without the proper filter is not safe. Oil vapor and other nastiness. Can/will cause a type of pneumonia. Other illness can result as well. I can't remember the setup Dean made so what I said is a generality, And FWIW moisture comes from the air heating as it compresses. When the air cools back down to ambient then it condensates. Yes it helps having drier air entering the compressor but it won't stop water vapor/condensate compltely. Unless your compressor intakes 0% humidity air it is going to create water further downstream.
 
I am using the "Dean Jenkins Special" Tyvec hood.
Just to clarify the "Dean Jenkins Special."

First, I've located my air compressor intake outside of the shop, so I'm not pulling in paint fumes, etc.

air intake.jpg


Second, the air for my paint gun goes through the Arrow 5-stage filtering system, which includes a "01 micron oil coalescing filter."

Arrow 5 stage.JPG


Third, for breathing, the air goes through another 3-stage filter, which also includes oil filtering.
This is a line that I TEE off of the hose for the air gun and this filter/regulator is worn on a belt.

Belt filter.JPG


The output from the belt pack filter goes to a tyvek hood, which has positive pressure air flow and tear off lenses.

Hood.JPG


Over the last 3 years I've painted 3 vehicles. Means I'm using this setup less than 60-minutes per year. How much time do we actually spend spraying paint?

Would I use it in a production setting every day? No way!

Since I wear a beard, every respirator mask leaks and I can smell paint, a lot.

For a DYI hobbyist like me, this has worked. If I sprayed more, I would invest in a true fresh air hood system.
 
A hobby air system with its own air supply can be had for around $400-500 I believe. That is a much safer way to go.
 
It's not about the air that the compressor intakes, it;s whats in the compressor output. Breathing compressor air without the proper filter is not safe. Oil vapor and other nastiness. Can/will cause a type of pneumonia. Other illness can result as well. I can't remember the setup Dean made so what I said is a generality, And FWIW moisture comes from the air heating as it compresses. When the air cools back down to ambient then it condensates. Yes it helps having drier air entering the compressor but it won't stop water vapor/condensate compltely. Unless your compressor intakes 0% humidity air it is going to create water further downstream.
I agree 100% with your points.
I reason that pulling the air from inside the house will isolate it from paint fumes and give me "LOWER" humidity air in Florida.
I believe I have the moisture under control by doing the following:
- Air leaving the compressor pump goes through an air cooler which brings the air temp down to about 10* F above ambient.
- The air then goes through a water separator before entering the tank.
- The air leaving the tank travels through 40' of 3/4" copper pipe.
- The air then goes through a 10 Micron water trap,
-- a Motor Guard CO4515 .01 micron Coalescing Filter,
-- and a 2 gt Arrow desiccant dryer (the one you posted about a while back).

Under the fresh air hood, I plan to wear a 3M mask with 3M P100 Respirator Cartridges (60923) rated for Organic Vapors, Acid Gases, and Particulates.
- Will the 3M cartridges not protect against oil vapor from the compressor?

Just to clarify the "Dean Jenkins Special."

First, I've located my air compressor intake outside of the shop, so I'm not pulling in paint fumes, etc.
Dean, I blatantly ripped off your fresh air setup. Full credit to you for researching and coming up with the solution. I simply adapted it to what I have available
I'll pull air from inside the house.

Second, the air for my paint gun goes through the Arrow 5-stage filtering system, which includes a "01 micron oil coalescing filter."
My filtration setup is not as fancy as yours but I believe it will function similarly enough.

Third, for breathing, the air goes through another 3-stage filter, which also includes oil filtering.
This is a line that I TEE off of the hose for the air gun and this filter/regulator is worn on a belt.
Again, I ripped off your idea of a TEE and filter but I will be wearing the filter instead. The TEE and a pressure regulator are attached to the hood belt for support.

The output from the belt pack filter goes to a tyvek hood, which has positive pressure air flow and tear off lenses.
I am using the same hood.

Over the last 3 years I've painted 3 vehicles. Means I'm using this setup less than 60-minutes per year. How much time do we actually spend spraying paint?

Would I use it in a production setting every day? No way!

Since I wear a beard, every respirator mask leaks and I can smell paint, a lot.

For a DYI hobbyist like me, this has worked. If I sprayed more, I would invest in a true fresh air hood system.
My thinking as well. I figure the hood and 3M mask replicate your setup. I may also get the same filter setup you are using. How do you feel about the quality now that you have used it for a while?

And now back to my original question...
Should I swap the 1/4" hose for 3/8? I am leaning in that dirrection since I may need more air volume in the future. I found an article on line where the engineer calculated the air flow of 1/4" hose at a theoretical 13.5 CFM. Take 10% to 20% off for friction losses and you are below HVLP limits.

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Emil
 
I’m going out on a limb, but the P is for particulate.
You should be using a cartridge for organic vapors
Charcoal, multi gas …..I can’t remember the number.
If you smell ANYTHING or taste anything you’re screwing up.
I have the advantage of using the full face for anhydrous ammonia, so it’s immediately obvious that I have a problem.
 
I’m going out on a limb, but the P is for particulate.
You should be using a cartridge for organic vapors
Charcoal, multi gas …..I can’t remember the number.
If you smell ANYTHING or taste anything you’re screwing up.
I have the advantage of using the full face for anhydrous ammonia, so it’s immediately obvious that I have a problem.
The cartridges are for organic vapors, and there's a P100 filter on top of the cartridge.
 
If you're passing your air through a desiccant dryer, then you're passing your air through silica with cobalt chloride...which is not something you want to breathe or count on your respirator to take care of.
 
If you're passing your air through a desiccant dryer, then you're passing your air through silica with cobalt chloride...which is not something you want to breathe or count on your respirator to take care of.
DOH!!. I will rethink my setup and search for alternative clean air source. Thanks to everyone for saving me from myself.

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Emil
 
The coalescing filter should take care of your petroleum distillates in the air, but I'd also replace the flexzilla hose with a Gates non-gassing hose that is designed for breathing air.
 
A hobby air system with its own air supply can be had for around $400-500 I believe. That is a much safer way to go.
And the air is refreshing on the face. I've had mine for quite a while, and it does mean another hose to kick around, but it does the job very nicely. You also have to have a place to set it so it can draw fresh air.
 
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