A
Addicted
Sand it in the morning and keep going. How much epoxy did you use?
C
CMS829
Including the rear bumper I used around 24 ounces so you were almost spot on!
I’ll sand those areas down with 180 and do another coat tomorrow night. Probably going to just do another two coats and then my filler work. Might as well.
I’ll sand those areas down with 180 and do another coat tomorrow night. Probably going to just do another two coats and then my filler work. Might as well.
C
CMS829
Well the second coat came out much better all together. Still got a couple spots where it cratered. Think I was still trying to put it on too heavy. Turned down my fluid half a turn and the other side came out perfect. No craters.
Started my body filler yesterday and got quite a bit done. First time using filler. Apparently I put too much hardener in the first batch - as it went off before I started applying it. Within two minutes of mixing. lol. Whoops! Even when I put in significantly less hardener it still goes off within 4-5 minutes. I assume this is normal? Temps are mid 70s in the garage. Im using the blue hardener. If I used the red would I get a little more working time out of it?
I can see a big difference even after the first coat/sanding. My welding definitely shrunk things a bit even after all the planishing. I am hoping to have an absolute max thickness of filler of 1/8" and that is only on the two sides of each patch where it sunk in more. I know thats not "acceptable" in the real world of auto body - but for my first time welding sheet metal and my first real body work, I'll take it. The majority of the filler is probably a lot less than a 1/16 of an inch.
I am finding it is difficult to really check the shape of the panel. Im using a straight edge. The bed has a slight concave shape in spots (especially in front of the wheel well) along with convex (obviously) curves. I know with my guide coat I can get the surface uniform....but whether it has the right curvature is what I am stuggling with. I dont want to spray my next coat of epoxy before my 2K and notice that it looks terrible.
One last thing - I am struggling with if I should spend the money on glazing putty (2 part most likely evercoat gold or dolphin glaze). Seems like it is much easier to get a good surface in my mind. A lot like spackling. Sometimes I will mix a batch just a bit thinner and it feathers out much nicer. Should I bother? Part of me was thinking of glazing both bedsides in their entirety after I fishing my filler work. Thoughts?
Started my body filler yesterday and got quite a bit done. First time using filler. Apparently I put too much hardener in the first batch - as it went off before I started applying it. Within two minutes of mixing. lol. Whoops! Even when I put in significantly less hardener it still goes off within 4-5 minutes. I assume this is normal? Temps are mid 70s in the garage. Im using the blue hardener. If I used the red would I get a little more working time out of it?
I can see a big difference even after the first coat/sanding. My welding definitely shrunk things a bit even after all the planishing. I am hoping to have an absolute max thickness of filler of 1/8" and that is only on the two sides of each patch where it sunk in more. I know thats not "acceptable" in the real world of auto body - but for my first time welding sheet metal and my first real body work, I'll take it. The majority of the filler is probably a lot less than a 1/16 of an inch.
I am finding it is difficult to really check the shape of the panel. Im using a straight edge. The bed has a slight concave shape in spots (especially in front of the wheel well) along with convex (obviously) curves. I know with my guide coat I can get the surface uniform....but whether it has the right curvature is what I am stuggling with. I dont want to spray my next coat of epoxy before my 2K and notice that it looks terrible.
One last thing - I am struggling with if I should spend the money on glazing putty (2 part most likely evercoat gold or dolphin glaze). Seems like it is much easier to get a good surface in my mind. A lot like spackling. Sometimes I will mix a batch just a bit thinner and it feathers out much nicer. Should I bother? Part of me was thinking of glazing both bedsides in their entirety after I fishing my filler work. Thoughts?
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I use the Platinum filler (use to be Marson, now 3M) with the blue hardener. With a little practice you will know how much hardener to use so you don't waste filler.
When its time for the skim coat I had some Evercoat "honey" to the filler mix. Doesn't take much but it makes the filler much creamier and easy to spread without pin holes.
The trick with filler is to make sure you spread it a ways past the low spot your are tying to fill. Then use a sanding block with a coarse grit sand paper to level the filler and feather it in to the surrounding area. Resist the temptation to press hard on the sanding block and change the sandpaper as soon as it stops cutting. (read: often) You will repeat this process except that you will using a finer grit sandpaper.
When its time for the skim coat I had some Evercoat "honey" to the filler mix. Doesn't take much but it makes the filler much creamier and easy to spread without pin holes.
The trick with filler is to make sure you spread it a ways past the low spot your are tying to fill. Then use a sanding block with a coarse grit sand paper to level the filler and feather it in to the surrounding area. Resist the temptation to press hard on the sanding block and change the sandpaper as soon as it stops cutting. (read: often) You will repeat this process except that you will using a finer grit sandpaper.
C
CMS829
That stuff looks interesting. I dont think I've seen it around locally though and have to finish up my filler work by tomorrow night. I stopped this morning to get some sandpaper and a cleansheets board (I have a plastic one and after 1 day I got tired of cleaning it off after every mix). They had USC icing, which seems to get widely mixed reviews. Not going to take a chance on that. They also had evercoat polyester glaze (2K). But it was 35 bucks for 20 oz...and its getting hard to justify. I have got way more than I wanted into this project as is. (isnt that always the story?)
I am wondering why I cant just use a tiny bit more rage gold to fill any pinholes I may get after sanding completely? I really wanted to use the glaze to hide any sanding scratches, but I think i may block the entire bed in 180 after I finished my filler. I am going to put another coat or two of epoxy down before me reg build 2K anyway.
Any negatives to doing this? Thus far I've sprayed 2 coats of black epoxy. Working on my filler now. Once I have that where I want it I think I am going to block the entire bed in 180 (or should I go to 320?) to get rid of any sanding scratches...then spray another coat or two of epoxy. Then give that a day or two and spray my 2K on Saturday.
After my 2K reg build, I'll start with 180 then to 320 grit and then go to 400. Then sealer coat. May or may not wet sand that with 600 depending upon how it looks....then its off to my buddy for base and clear (I was going to do the base and clear myself but he is doing it for a TERRIFIC price. I'd be happier doing it myself, but it would actually wind up costing me more money than having him shoot the base and clear, and he is the owner of a very reputable shop in town. At this point with several side jobs going on and a bunch of things to get done before the snow starts to fly...I jut need it done.
How do I look?
One other question - After I have the bed in 2K...can it sit outside for a few days? I am going to have severely limited space in the garage once I bring my truck cap in there for sanding.
I am wondering why I cant just use a tiny bit more rage gold to fill any pinholes I may get after sanding completely? I really wanted to use the glaze to hide any sanding scratches, but I think i may block the entire bed in 180 after I finished my filler. I am going to put another coat or two of epoxy down before me reg build 2K anyway.
Any negatives to doing this? Thus far I've sprayed 2 coats of black epoxy. Working on my filler now. Once I have that where I want it I think I am going to block the entire bed in 180 (or should I go to 320?) to get rid of any sanding scratches...then spray another coat or two of epoxy. Then give that a day or two and spray my 2K on Saturday.
After my 2K reg build, I'll start with 180 then to 320 grit and then go to 400. Then sealer coat. May or may not wet sand that with 600 depending upon how it looks....then its off to my buddy for base and clear (I was going to do the base and clear myself but he is doing it for a TERRIFIC price. I'd be happier doing it myself, but it would actually wind up costing me more money than having him shoot the base and clear, and he is the owner of a very reputable shop in town. At this point with several side jobs going on and a bunch of things to get done before the snow starts to fly...I jut need it done.
How do I look?
One other question - After I have the bed in 2K...can it sit outside for a few days? I am going to have severely limited space in the garage once I bring my truck cap in there for sanding.
C
CMS829
Well. Filler will be done tomorrow. Just gotta sand on more section. My arms are totally shot. Another coat of epoxy tomorrow of the whole thing. Then 2k over the weekend. Not sure what is reflecting onto the beside in the pic, something in the garage
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Personally, I would leave it in epoxy if it is to set outside for a bit. Epoxy is more resistant to contaminants.
Be sure to get you some guide coat for the 2k block sanding process. I like the 3M dry guide coat. It's like finger print powder and will show all the imperfections in your panels and surfaces.
You can also use it during filler work and while wet sanding.
Be sure to get you some guide coat for the 2k block sanding process. I like the 3M dry guide coat. It's like finger print powder and will show all the imperfections in your panels and surfaces.
You can also use it during filler work and while wet sanding.
C
CMS829
I guess I dont NEED to set it outside. I am sure I can figure a way to get both the bed and cap in the garage while I sand the cap. Wish I had a larger shop. I guess I can finish up my filler work tonight, give it a couple hours and then shoot another coat of epoxy. After I confirm my filler work looks good enough, tomorrow after work I will shoot two coats of 2K. I'll leave it like that and take the cap off the truck and into the garage for sanding. Then whenever my buddy is ready I can shoot the seal coat on the bed and put it on the truck, and then shoot the sealer coat on the cap and put it on the trailer to bring to him. Or would it be ok to shoot my sealer coat and put the bed on the truck outside while I sand the cap? It would likely be a couple days after the sealer coat that my buddy would shoot the base/clear. Is that ok within the 7 day window?
I did text barry earlier, but I will pose the question here too. If I spray my next coat of black epoxy, and I find my filler work isnt perfect - Can I do a little more filler work on this next coat of epoxy? Then spray 1 more coat before 2K?
Anyway - I do have some spray guide coat and I used it on the filler during the last stages. Worked very well.
I did text barry earlier, but I will pose the question here too. If I spray my next coat of black epoxy, and I find my filler work isnt perfect - Can I do a little more filler work on this next coat of epoxy? Then spray 1 more coat before 2K?
Anyway - I do have some spray guide coat and I used it on the filler during the last stages. Worked very well.
Man, I sure hope the answer to this is yes because it’s how I’ve been doing mine thus far...
If I were better at my filler work then I wouldn’t have to, but I haven’t learned yet to get it down without pushing too hard and ending up with some concave or flat areas. I don’t have any spots needing more than 1/16” to 1/8” at most, but will be more than I would want. Still learning and perfecting my welding skills though...
Your project looks great to me so far. Seeing yours and work of others keeps me motivated to not give up.
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C
CMS829
Im sure it is Ok. But hopefully we can get confirmation soon.
My filler looks good as it is, but I know its not going to look perfect once I spray a coat of epoxy on it. Feel like I have a couple spots that are too flat, like you said.
My filler looks good as it is, but I know its not going to look perfect once I spray a coat of epoxy on it. Feel like I have a couple spots that are too flat, like you said.
Dave C 5
Member
I usually end up doing several coats of epoxy. First is for bare metal, I do my filler work on that and block sand. Then I do epoxy over all my filler work and block sand again. I almost always at this point will have some imperfections that require more filler so I put it on then block sand again.then put more epoxy on-- I always put a coat of epoxy over my filler before I spray 2K. I don't finish my bondo sanding off with anything finer than 120 grit and sometimes just 80 grit(in the initial stages -first round of blocking)-I have read here that epoxy will help with sand scratches not showing up in the final coat----it must work cause sand scratches do not show up in my final coat
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Yes, you can. Also spraying epoxy over the 2k will help you to see how the panels will look when finished. You can always do more block sanding but remember that the coarse grits are what get your panels straight and will help prevent you from having too much build.
C
CMS829
Well - I am super psyched and a little pissed.
I finished up the filler and put on two coats of epoxy last night. Man the filler work is seamless if I may say so myself. Awesome to see all that hard work pay off. You would never know that both wheel well's were cut out and replaced. Epoxy went on good and then I noticed some little pinholes (my best description). 3/4 of the way through the second coat I look at my water trap and theres a bunch of water in it. Close up is below. How should I go about fixing this? Or will my 2 coats of 2K likely fix this once blocked down? Some areas are worse than others and some areas have no imperfections at all.
So excited otherwise.
Dont mind the body filler dust in this pic. The primer was already dry to the touch when I turned my dehumidifer back on after I was done spraying and it blew filler dust up into the air. lol. The little pinholes suck though.
I finished up the filler and put on two coats of epoxy last night. Man the filler work is seamless if I may say so myself. Awesome to see all that hard work pay off. You would never know that both wheel well's were cut out and replaced. Epoxy went on good and then I noticed some little pinholes (my best description). 3/4 of the way through the second coat I look at my water trap and theres a bunch of water in it. Close up is below. How should I go about fixing this? Or will my 2 coats of 2K likely fix this once blocked down? Some areas are worse than others and some areas have no imperfections at all.
So excited otherwise.
Dont mind the body filler dust in this pic. The primer was already dry to the touch when I turned my dehumidifer back on after I was done spraying and it blew filler dust up into the air. lol. The little pinholes suck though.
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B
bing98
Awesome work CMS. I too and in the middle of a first time rust repair project. Making patches, welding and painting. This stuff is addicting.
The timing of this thread is perfect as it's answered some questions for me. Particularly how much paint to use.
I'm a little north of you so I have my space heaters ready to go this weekend. Keep up the good work!
The timing of this thread is perfect as it's answered some questions for me. Particularly how much paint to use.
I'm a little north of you so I have my space heaters ready to go this weekend. Keep up the good work!
C
CMS829
Put up some pics i would be interested in seeing what your working on. Yea i ran the space heater last night kept it nice and toasty in the garage because it dropped to 55 outside.
One more question- after i shoot my sealer coat. How long do i have to spray the base?
One more question- after i shoot my sealer coat. How long do i have to spray the base?
Dave C 5
Member
Using epoxy for sealer ?How long to spray base coat depends on how you mix it - if you search for “epoxy as sealer” there will be a lot of info for how to mix it and how long to wait. I have reduced it super thin and shot it in half an hour BUT a lot of times I reduce it a little and spray it almost full strength - 24 hours later I start wet sanding - then I will spray on my finished product. Extra work I know but it’s easier for me to see sand scratches that way - I have a hard Time seeing sand scratches in 2k - I think i’m Done but then I spray reduced epoxy and sure as heck I find some I missed
C
CMS829
Well i used some dolphin glaze to fill the pinholes. Turns out it wasnt moisture, but was present anywhere i used filler. So it was filler pinholes. Dolphin glaze and another blocking with 320 fixed it right up.
Shot two coats of reg build 2k. But i honestly dont know how much ill have to block sand it, as ive done it now 2-3 times throughout the process and the 2k laid down like glass with no sand scratches or anything coming through.
Whats everyone think of blocking it once with 400, and then spraying a unreduced coat of epoxy, then one last blocking at 400.
Will that open up my base coat window to 7 days? I have to sand and prime the bed cap and bring them both for base and clear at the same time. So trying to extend the time period between last coat of primer and base. Any other thoughts? If i reduce just a little bit, say 20% or so- how long do i have to shoot my base?
Shot two coats of reg build 2k. But i honestly dont know how much ill have to block sand it, as ive done it now 2-3 times throughout the process and the 2k laid down like glass with no sand scratches or anything coming through.
Whats everyone think of blocking it once with 400, and then spraying a unreduced coat of epoxy, then one last blocking at 400.
Will that open up my base coat window to 7 days? I have to sand and prime the bed cap and bring them both for base and clear at the same time. So trying to extend the time period between last coat of primer and base. Any other thoughts? If i reduce just a little bit, say 20% or so- how long do i have to shoot my base?
Dave C 5
Member
If I sand un- reduced epoxy (as a sealer) I try to get the base coat on in the next few days - if I’m gonna be shooting a stripe then I will shoot a reduced seal coat and spray the base the same day - that way the base coat really locks down and I won’t pull it up when I pull the tape
C
CMS829
Thats probably a better idea. Its a fiberglass cap and paint is in good shape. I planned on sanding it with 400 and then spray a coat of epoxy. Think i should shoot the cap with the epoxy reduced, or a straight coat?
Thanks for all the help!