Another stripe question....AKA: Help out an old guy!

S

ScottsGT

25 years ago I could have easily answered my own question, but since I have been away from the business so long, I think I need a little help.
Here's the plan: '66 Mustang GT fastback. Will soon be prepped with all SPI products. Final prep will be a surface of 2K primer sanded with 400 grit. Final outcome will be Ford Code T, Candy Apple Red with white Lemans stripes. Your typical "Shelby" type paint job.
My plan was to lay down the white base for the stripes by just doing the middle of the hood, roof, trunk, etc.. without any masking. Let dry possibly overnight. At least 4 hours.
Then I am planning on masking off the area I want the white stripe to remain, completely wipe down the car again, scuff outer white areas with scotchbrite if needed, wipe again and spray red base.
Let sit hour or so, clear with 2 to 3 coats of MS clear. Come back next day, wet sand with 400, lay down two more coats.

Now I'm reading about intermediate coats of clear over the stripes to protect the base I'll be masking on. Since my white won't be covering the entire roof, hood, etc.. do I clear these areas and go back and put a base coat on top of this clear, then re-clear after that?

Or do I just stick to my original plan?
 
Are you going to spray over the sanded 2K without applying a sealer? You can but it would be a more durable job if a sealer was applied. No need to scuff the white base before shooting the red but if there's a dry edge you might want to sand it smooth. Not all basecoats should be sanded though-what brand? No need for the intercoat clear if you can keep the white base clean.
 
Intercoat clears before stripes are nearly mandatory for metallics, not so much for solids, though I will say SPI intercoat sands pretty nicely, so it can be used under and over the stripe to protect the base from marking and provide a surface that can take a bit of sanding if it proves necessary.
 
Bob Hollinshead;18267 said:
Are you going to spray over the sanded 2K without applying a sealer? You can but it would be a more durable job if a sealer was applied. No need to scuff the white base before shooting the red but if there's a dry edge you might want to sand it smooth. Not all basecoats should be sanded though-what brand? No need for the intercoat clear if you can keep the white base clean.
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I was going to shoot the white epoxy as a sealer, but I did some reading on Autobody101 and the consensus was that with the 2K it is not really necessary, and almost a waste of money to do it if I have a solid base of 2K with nothing showing through the primer.
As little as a quart of SPI Epoxy costs compared to the overall project, I really don't mind shooting it if it provides any benefit. Although it may slow down the painting process, but then again, what is a few more hours in a 13 year project??
So this intercoat clear, it's basically a clear basecoat? I do remember years back (25ish) when we got heavy into the BC/CC process we were getting some edge lifting of the clears if we went back over it with base coat. I just don't want to re-live any of these nightmares.
 
Just before ready to shoot mix your epoxy 1 part epoxy, 1 part act., 1 reducer.... ( be careful it will be very thin )... spray the epoxy sealer just like your first coat of base... Wait 30 minutes to 1 hour and then preceed to the base!
 
ScottsGT;18290 said:
I was going to shoot the white epoxy as a sealer, but I did some reading on Autobody101 and the consensus was that with the 2K it is not really necessary, and almost a waste of money to do it if I have a solid base of 2K with nothing showing through the primer.
As little as a quart of SPI Epoxy costs compared to the overall project, I really don't mind shooting it if it provides any benefit. Although it may slow down the painting process, but then again, what is a few more hours in a 13 year project??
So this intercoat clear, it's basically a clear basecoat? I do remember years back (25ish) when we got heavy into the BC/CC process we were getting some edge lifting of the clears if we went back over it with base coat. I just don't want to re-live any of these nightmares.
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Scott, some of the guys on AB101 are anti-SPI and therefore quick to put down any usage of it. While sealer coats are optional the benefits IMHO of using epoxy are many:
- It locks down everything below it
- Provides a consistent color to paint over
- Provides better adhesion for the color coat
- Provides increased chip protection
- Lets you see what the color coat will look like (any problems will show and can be repaired easily)

I am sure there are more reasons as well. I agree for the minimal cost of the epoxy it is good insurance to use it as a sealer.
 
ScottsGT;18290 said:
I was going to shoot the white epoxy as a sealer, but I did some reading on Autobody101 and the consensus was that with the 2K it is not really necessary, and almost a waste of money to do it if I have a solid base of 2K with nothing showing through the primer.
As little as a quart of SPI Epoxy costs compared to the overall project, I really don't mind shooting it if it provides any benefit. Although it may slow down the painting process, but then again, what is a few more hours in a 13 year project??
So this intercoat clear, it's basically a clear basecoat? I do remember years back (25ish) when we got heavy into the BC/CC process we were getting some edge lifting of the clears if we went back over it with base coat. I just don't want to re-live any of these nightmares.
Click to expand...


AB101 is that the site is based mainly on "collision" folks. And there is nothing wrong with that. But what I learned about collision work while working at various shops when I was in high school is your main target is to do what it takes to get the job done with the least out of pocket expense(sand,prime,paint,buff in one day). Some of those guys are just programmed that way. While you dont "technically" need a fresh bed of sealer if you have a sanded base that is paintable, its nothing but benificial.

My buddy has been painting at a dealership for 13 years, great painter. Scared to death to fix a dent and has never done heavy sidework. Only knows base/clear and 2k primer.


Never sprayed or even heard of a poly primer and never uses epoxy. Just not cost effective in their eyes I guess.
 
orangejuiced86;18304 said:
AB101 is that the site is based mainly on "collision" folks. And there is nothing wrong with that. But what I learned about collision work while working at various shops when I was in high school is your main target is to do what it takes to get the job done with the least out of pocket expense(sand,prime,paint,buff in one day). Some of those guys are just programmed that way. While you dont "technically" need a fresh bed of sealer if you have a sanded base that is paintable, its nothing but benificial.

My buddy has been painting at a dealership for 13 years, great painter. Scared to death to fix a dent and has never done heavy sidework. Only knows base/clear and 2k primer.


Never sprayed or even heard of a poly primer and never uses epoxy. Just not cost effective in their eyes I guess.
Click to expand...


I fully understand that! My FIRST job in a body shop was when I was fresh out of tech school with my degree in Auto Body Technology, I got fired the first week, and I quote, " For doing it the right way...." I told the guy that it might be a good thing to part ways because I am not willing to lower my standards to help his bottom line.
3 years later I was painting at another shop that appreciated my skills and attention to detail. And in walks the father of the guy that fired me. He watched me for about 2 or 3 minutes in the so called booth we had, and took one look at a car I had sprayed the day before and told my boss he was going to steal me away from them. The boss laughed at him and told him "You already had him, but your son fired him." I found out later his son got a good butt chewing!
 
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