I painted the exterior of my square body last year and the jambs but the wife noticed the lower door panels and lower dash etc of the interior isn't going to match old vs new color wise. I'm using Metalux which worked fine over the gray epoxy and then reduced black epoxy as a sealer. My question is can i scuff these parts inside with 600 grit and just shoot them with my base and universal clear? Or will i need to epoxy everything just for adhesion purposes? I'd like to avoid that step if possible since its not a show piece inside just a driver/resto deal.
Base over similar color base. Epoxy first?
- Thread starter slideways
- Start date
metlmunchr
Member
If its original paint then its almost surely lacquer. Old lacquer doesn't like strong solvents. At one time the paint companies made what they called non-penetrating lacquer thinner for thinning lacquer to be applied over an old lacquer surface. Sometimes old lacquer would take new paint okay and other times it could look like you'd sprayed it with paint stripper. To me, anyway, the solvents in reducer for base seem to be at least as strong as old timey lacquer thinner. I'd seal with epoxy.
Treeslayer
Mike
really? about when did the OEMs stop using it?
Square body GM trucks were enamel. Old body style Suburbans enamel until 1991.1988 new body style trucks started using BC/CC. GM cars were lacquer until some new body styles started using BC/CC in the mid 80's. Big body RWD Caprices stayed with lacquer into early 90, I believe were the last ones.
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RosharonRooster
Promoted Users
If the old lady noticed it doesn't match....she's got a good eye. Just like mine. ....lock it down with reduced epoxy. It's sprayable glue essentially .
@slideways, In general, enamel rarely caused problems sprayed over factory enamels. Lacquer caused issues, commonly, over enamel. Enamels, with no hardener if added, or lacquer, have little solvent chemical resistance. Fairly strong solvents will wipe paint off, years or decades later. Good quality cured urethanes are pretty chemically resistant, and won't wipe off. SPI epoxy is as chemically resistant it can get. Strongest solvents to brake fluid, won't hurt it, once cured. Most members here will agree a coat of epoxy is a good idea before base or single stage.
Treeslayer
Mike
not to hyjack but, we mostly mess with dodge trucks from the early 70s through 92. i know they went to clear coat in the late 80s but does any one know if they ever used lacquer in that time period? i do know the factory paint is usually very hard. is there a test to see if its lacquer?
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
I'm reminded of a time when I was doing a color change on a '70 GMC pickup. We had the doors and fenders off, and were prepping the jambs. The usual visible parts had been painted before and had to be stripped, but the sides of the cowl had never been painted and had the factory finish on them, a light metallic green. We shot the jambs with white epoxy, and to my surprise, the sides of the cowl pulled pigment out of the old finish and turned the epoxy a light yellowish-green! It was obvious that the old lacquer underneath had basically liquified and started mixing with the epoxy. Since it was in a never seen part of the truck that's also not exposed to weather, we left it alone, and it took paint fine after drying. But I don't really know how much weaker it made the epoxy...
Interesting question