Bed liner over old epoxy

C

cstrom72

Does the epoxy need to be scuffed before a bed liner will stick to it? Ive decided to spray the inner fenders before I weld them in, the epoxy was sprayed over a week ago.
 
Thanks Barry one more question...

I have some U-POL Raptor Liner that uses u-pol acid etch #8 as a substrate. Im only applying this on the floor/tub of the bronco since I had a quart of acid etch left over from a different project. I had a few small spots in the sill area that had some surface rust which I have removed via wire wheel and sandblaster. If I spray some SPI Epoxy down first in the areas that had some rust, can I top the epoxy with the acid etch for the liner? Im sure I could spray the whole floor down with Epoxy primer and use the raptor liner over that but im already going over what I wanted to spend and id like to use up some of these other products...
 
I don't know what the rapor is but NO real bed liner can ever be put over an acid etch.
There are some bed liners cheaper ones that are nothing more then paint filled with talc and they would go over the acid etch but I would check with the raptor place to see what they say.

I doubt the acid would work real well over the epoxy in any case.
 
I asked them and here is the response:

"It just depends on the type. Epoxy, you do not need an acid etch and it could react poorly in terms of adhesion. Our is a urethane, so it has no anti-rust properties. A metal etch is needed, not suggested or recommended. But with epoxy you lose ability to hold gloss and color. Also non repairable.
While using any metal etch, always make sure to watch dry times/cure times. Like a solvent, the acid needs to evaporate. Nothing will stick while the acid is evaporating.
Hope this answers the question. I assure an acid etch is necessary and is chemically compliant"
 
Their response is incoherent and should be disregarded.

U-POL Raptor Bedliner Tech Sheet:

http://www.u-pol.com/documents/datasheets/tds/RLB-TDS-US.pdf

U-POL’s Truck Bed Liner can be applied to most original manufacturers finishes.
The surface should be lightly scuffed, and free from dirt and rust. For best results bare metal should be treated with a suitable etch primer e.g. U-POL ACID#8 (UP0776/ UP0741)
Click to expand...

So it's compatible with cured OE finishes. From my experience with SPI epoxy, cured epoxy is a reasonable substitute. Sand the epoxy and spray the bedliner.

The tech sheet only mentions etch primer in the context of protecting bare metal.
 
cstrom72;23384 said:
I asked them and here is the response:

"It just depends on the type. Epoxy, you do not need an acid etch and it could react poorly in terms of adhesion. Our is a urethane, so it has no anti-rust properties. A metal etch is needed, not suggested or recommended. But with epoxy you lose ability to hold gloss and color. Also non repairable.
While using any metal etch, always make sure to watch dry times/cure times. Like a solvent, the acid needs to evaporate. Nothing will stick while the acid is evaporating.
Hope this answers the question. I assure an acid etch is necessary and is chemically compliant"
Click to expand...

They sure have confused me with all the oxymoron statements?
I would not know what to do, as well as the person that wrote the response to you.
 
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