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Bed Liner over seam sealer

#1
I sprayed three coats of SPI Epoxy Primer and after two days applied Lord Fusor 805 Seam Sealer. I let it cure 24 hours and could "roll it off" the seams. Is there a different Lord Fusor seam sealer or other brand that has been tested to be compatible with SPI Epoxy Primer? Its under the floor of a truck cab which will be coated with SPI Bedliner.
 

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
#2
I'm lost here so can't help at all, only thing I can think of if it was a two part but other two parts work good this way. Looks like you followed all the flash times very well.

Things do change, where as we have put Upol Fiberall over epoxy for years and the newer batches of fiberall is not sticking and the older batch i had in my garage does.
So beats me as far as a reason why this happened.
 
#4
I used the 800EZ on a couple of projects now and have had no issues whatsoever. Like Barry is saying it may be something they are doing different with the newer products. Probably a different chemical that will save a mosquito or something.
 
#5
I did review the tech instructions and although 805 is for bare metal, it can be used over epxoy. However, they want a light scuff. I assumed the chemical window with epxoy would work with the 805 so I did not scuff. Regardless, I dont care for the rubbery thin texture of the 805 so Im going to wire brush it off with a decal eraser, 700 it, and apply something else. I will try 800EZ or a two part. I was trying to save money so I went cheap and you know where that leads, lol. Damn mosquitoes! Cant keep up with them tree huggers.

Ill report back.
 
#6
I did find a local supplier for LF 800 EZ. He had it on the shelf but said it was ordered by accident. He stated 800EZ is going to be discontinued and its replacement will be 800DTM (Direct to Metal) that can be used on sanded bare metal or scuffed two part primer. I went with the 800DTM because I want to try it and know if I go back in six months, I can get the same product. SPI Epoxy Primer is my choice of primers so I am going to keep going until I get I find a product that will work well with SPI. In all fairness to Lord Fusor, my first attempt with 805 may have failed because I did not scuff the primer before application. It was in the seven day window of the epoxy so I did not feel scuffing was required. That being said, I still think the 805 is a little on the thin side for my needs and I like more build.

One other concern on Lord Fusor. Its not uncommon to find their products on the shelf past the expiration date. I was recently using an expensive Lord Fusor panel adhesive and it started getting hard to trigger the plunger into the tube. All of a sudden it burst one of the two part canisters and I had a mess. It was past the expiration date. If you call Lord Fusor tech support, they will tell you if its past the expiration date, try a little first before you use it. There goes an applicator tip not to mention the tip will be full of unused material while you wait to see if your test sample is going to cure. When I look at Lord Fusor two part products on the shelf, I have yet to find one that has not expired on the expiration date listed on the product.
 
#8
We tried a batch of the one part fusor seam sealer.. I can't remember what one it was but what we didn't use we returned, we seam sealed a whole restoration with it and the spots inside of the car you could roll off with you're fingers, on the underside of the car we bed lined it and that seam sealer is rock hard under the bed liner.. I don't understand why this happened but we had to re seal the inside of the car..

I went back to my sem 2-part.. While it may cost a little more I know it works.
 
#9
I actually wondered what would happen if I bed lined over the 805 but when I discovered I could just "roll it off" with my thumb, I could not cover it with bed liner. Did you scuff the epoxy before you applied the fusor seam sealer?
 
#11
Next time I spray epoxy I will do a test piece, let it set 24, scuff and try some 805 to see what it does. Then at some point in time, I will bed line the sample, I might do a big enough sample I can test both the 805 and the 800 DTM I am trying next. For anyone using 800 EZ, as I said earlier, he told me it was going to be phased out and replaced with 800 DTM. I did verify the tech sheet on 800 DTM and it says bare metal (sanded) or 2 part primer (scuffed). I am only repeating what he told me. 803 DTM is black, 800 DTM is neutral (tan).

So far the 800 DTM is much more body to it and like seems to be sticking really well, but too early to confirm. I like the 800 DTM over the 805 for heavier bodied material and definitely more firm.
 
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Dub

Von Dub... The Total Gearhead
Staff member
#12
is seam sealer even necessary if you are spraying bedliner over it? I would think the bedliner would seal it good enough? Please correct me if I am wrong.
 
#13
I called SPI and ask if their bed liner would serve the same purpose as seam sealer. They said theoretically yes, but that I should use bed liner in open seams. I am using seam sealer in the open joints. Where the factory seams are tight, Im going to rely on bedliner to seal them. In any location where the bedliner may "bridge" an open area, I want backing behind it so I followed that general guideline.
 
#14
Outlaw;40254 said:
Next time I spray epoxy I will do a test piece, let it set 24, scuff and try some 805 to see what it does. Then at some point in time, I will bed line the sample, I might do a big enough sample I can test both the 805 and the 800 DTM I am trying next. For anyone using 800 EZ, as I said earlier, he told me it was going to be phased out and replaced with 800 DTM. I did verify the tech sheet on 800 DTM and it says bare metal (sanded) or 2 part primer (scuffed). I am only repeating what he told me. 803 DTM is black, 800 DTM is neutral (tan).

So far the 800 DTM is much more body to it and like seems to be sticking really well, but too early to confirm. I like the 800 DTM over the 805 for heavier bodied material and definitely more firm.
sorry to hear the EZ series is being phased out, hope the DTM series is good-interesting that it can be painted immediately after application and up to 30 days without any scuffing needed. All the urethanes seem to need scuffing after 24hrs.
 
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