Best SPI clear for production style finishes.

OJ86

Promoted Users
Normally my workload is projects that get cut and buffed flat. But lately I have been getting some small side work on drivers.

What is the best clear for achieving a factory style finish. I'm no expert by any means, but the universal lays thick and doesn't give that thin factory look needed to match adjacent panels.

Would the production clear be an option or the euro clear possibly? Any input would be great.

Thanks.
 
I don't know the exact solid percentages between the 2.1 VOC Production and the #5100 Euro, but the former is thinner. I reckon the Production #2100 would help you
achieve the texture easier and maybe better.

The #5000 regular Euro clear works really good for me on bumpers all day long, since you have the option to mix it 4:1:2 if you need to, I can match the factory peel very easy with that clear.
 
That's what I do, when I do bumpers I reduce Universal 20%
and use slow reducer and activator. I don't buff them.
Once, by mistake, I reduced 30%, and it still came out fine
and never returned (LOL)
 
We do have a lot of insurance shops that only use the universal but like all shops they get stuck doing a used car lot job or a cheap job for a customer once in a while that is going to dump his car and wants the shop to do it cheap.
In this case to avoid buying a second clear to save money they will reduce the universal 25%, some as high as 50% as reducer is cheaper then clear, all you are sacrificing doing this is mils.
 
Ok, Ill try that.

Althogh I am anxious to use some of your other products, so I may snatch up some Euro and some production just because, lol
 
Someone correct me if Im wrong here, but doesnt matching the adjacent panel come more with gun adjustment than the clear itself?? I know that some clears are designed for production shops and come with peel in the can :p , but still yet, I know I can make the universal lay slick or bumpy if I so choose all with gun adjustment

Am I missing something here
 
Man I missed the whole point of the question!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here is what the Ford and Toyota dealers around here that I know are doing.

Spray a medium coat of clear over the whole door, just back up with the gun, let set 15-30 minutes to set up good and then one wet coat, matches the F250 and the Toyota real good.

GM, a medium dry coat, wait 20 minutes and a little wetter dry coat, depending on model how wet the second coat should be.
The Gm way will give that thin, chensy look.
 
Bondoking;9546 said:
Someone correct me if Im wrong here, but doesnt matching the adjacent panel come more with gun adjustment than the clear itself?? I know that some clears are designed for production shops and come with peel in the can :p , but still yet, I know I can make the universal lay slick or bumpy if I so choose all with gun adjustment

Am I missing something here


I am not an expert so it was an honest question. I did not know if a high solid clear was the best selection to be used for a production style job.
 
i tell you......sometimes its harder to make something looke like sh*t than it is to make look nice.though both are artforms, i suppose
 
OJ the question is fine bro.. Im no expert either.. Im just a hack backyardagain..

All questions are welcome here.. I was simply stating that with your gun, you can make any clear look how you want.. Then Barry expounded his paint wisdom on the situation :;)
 
I can tell you for certain that with the right gun adjustments you can get the UV clear to be as peely as you want. I have no problem doing that! If I could just lay it on as heavy as I like without getting it so peely I would be happy as pig in doodoo. LOL

Now I can tell you that I can lay down some primer. I can get that as smooth as the clear that the "painters" I work with shoot, and it is SW. I can even lay that down smooth. Probably do that with a squirt bottle it is so thin. LOL

Aaron
 
GREAT info in this post! i always wondered how to match a factory peel job!
 
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