Bit off more than I can chew?

Ram2o9Girl

Ram2o9Girl

New Member
WARNING- Neeeewbie
PAINT EXPERIENCE: my bedroom walls
VEHICLE: 02 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab SB 6" Lift
PROJECT: Epoxy Primer
HOPEFUL OUTCOME: An even color that will not rust until I paint it next spring....and not ignite, explode or burn the place down.

This is my set up so far (see pic). A few questions.
1. Remaining 2 windows, open w/filters or closed?
2. Should I remove the magnets on the lights?
3. Suggestions for an inexpensive and simple heating solution with minimal chance of injury (cats, dogs etc)? 2 reptile lights won't be enough.
4. Wet the ground or damp sheets....tarp or plastic = static?

*Please all comments, suggestions and warnings are much needed and greatly appreciated .
 

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1. i would put filters in the other 2 windows
2. not sure what you mean about magnets but doesnt matter anyway. just mount them up there anyway you can. only issue with the lights is they are a bit direct and spotty. really need something that floods the area.
3. those heat lamps arent going to cut it. not sure where you are located but unless its south florida where its warm then you will need something much more substantial. remember you have to make enough heat to be able to warm the volume of air going in and out the booth. open the front door to your house and put a fan in the opening blowing out. prob going to need something in the 150,000 btu range but depends on outside temps. im just thinking here in nj where its 50 during the day.
4. i will assume this shelter is going outside on the dirt? i would put plastic down for sure.
 
I see from your profile , you are in Modesto. What are the temps there? SPI epoxy needs the metal and air to be 65 or greater for 24 hours after it is sprayed. If that booth you are wanting to use is what it appears to be, a portable garage kit, will your truck fit in it with enough room to work around it?
 
1A Rock said:
I see from your profile , you are in Modesto. What are the temps there? SPI epoxy needs the metal and air to be 65 or greater for 24 hours after it is sprayed. If that booth you are wanting to use is what it appears to be, a portable garage kit, will your truck fit in it with enough room to work around it?
Click to expand...
I don't think those are long enough for that truck, and probably not high enough either. You can get a blow up portable booth big enough, and it will have the fans and filters with it, but it will be huge. They are less expensive than you might think, and have good previews.
 
Jim C said:
1. i would put filters in the other 2 windows
2. not sure what you mean about magnets but doesnt matter anyway. just mount them up there anyway you can. only issue with the lights is they are a bit direct and spotty. really need something that floods the area.
3. those heat lamps arent going to cut it. not sure where you are located but unless its south florida where its warm then you will need something much more substantial. remember you have to make enough heat to be able to warm the volume of air going in and out the booth. open the front door to your house and put a fan in the opening blowing out. prob going to need something in the 150,000 btu range but depends on outside temps. im just thinking here in nj where its 50 during the day.
4. i will assume this shelter is going outside on the dirt? i would put plastic down for sure.
Click to expand...
I'm in Cali, not quite as cold as NJ but getting there. The canopy/carport is on a cemented driveway. Ok, I have plenty of plastic.

My mind was on safer lighting but I think you're right about being spotty. LED light bar, possibly the linkable type or office style florescent lights?

150,000 heat btu's, not even sure what that means. I will never end a relationship mid-project again. Especially if I have no idea what I'm doing.

Thank you so much for your input.
 
chevman said:
I don't think those are long enough for that truck, and probably not high enough either. You can get a blow up portable booth big enough, and it will have the fans and filters with it, but it will be huge. They are less expensive than you might think, and have good previews.
Click to expand...
It's 13'x20' and you are right about the length. My rear bumper touches the back door and I have maybe 1-1/2' space in front. The sides are ok and the center height is approx 10-1/2'. I have a 6" lift on 35" tires and there's plenty of space.

Initially I was going for a 30' but it would've left no room for my roommates car and she wasn't going for it.

Like I said earlier, I will never end a relationship mid-project again, lol.

I'm just trying to get the truck prepped, spray epoxy primer and hope it will cure with the cold temps. As it sits with partial sanding here n there, small areas of exposed metal starting to show signs of rust and the weather worsening.

"When life hands you lemons, find the person whose life handed them tequila and par-tay"
 
metalman said:
Best of luck with it. Folks here are willing to help with questions.
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This site is awesome and so much knowledge and years of experience to draw upon....amazing people on here. I'm way out of my lane on this project but with the help I've received so far...I just might pull it off. Big ty!!
 
Hi @Ram2o9Girl , welcome to the forum! I don't really want to criticize your plan so soon, but hoping the epoxy will cure with low temps is really tempting fate. If you can't invest in some kind of heat solution that will keep primed surfaces at 65F minimum, there will be problems.
 
Be sure to read the product TDS and “ perfect paint job” along with all the others….
I’m not usually one to advise others about automotive finishing, but if you were my sister…
I would recommend you finding a local “ painter”
and inquire about helping with the project or renting a booth for a day.
It’s gonna be cheaper in the long run.
The cost of tools ( APR, compressor, drier, hose, regulator, gun)
Materials ( sanding , blocking, masking, cleaner water based ….epoxy and activator. Then bodywork filler…There’s always a little to do…
and then primer and seal then paint?
I mean if you’re that far along, there’s no better time to do it.
There are a few things that some hobbyists will probably only use once.
It’s a lot of outlay to do your own work, but it happens every day….and some are outstanding first timers.
 
Cold temps before the epoxy is fully dry will kill the end result. It happened to me once and when I went to paint it it had tiny solvent pops all over it because the surface dried before the underside and had to be sanded off and reshot with epoxy making sure it stayed warm enough until it dried.
 
I have talked to Barry recently about epoxy and the cool night time temps as I am working outside. I can give you some pointers in a PM as Modesto is similar to where I am in Az... I would rather others in different climates call Barry and get his advice. You will likely not need the 24 hours above 65 in your situation. PM me and we can discuss. We are getting into the low 30's at night here and I am still spraying epoxy outside, you just have to be careful.

IMG_5961.jpeg
 
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Ram2o9Girl said:
WARNING- Neeeewbie
PAINT EXPERIENCE: my bedroom walls
VEHICLE: 02 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab SB 6" Lift
PROJECT: Epoxy Primer
HOPEFUL OUTCOME: An even color that will not rust until I paint it next spring....and not ignite, explode or burn the place down.

This is my set up so far (see pic). A few questions.
1. Remaining 2 windows, open w/filters or closed?
2. Should I remove the magnets on the lights?
3. Suggestions for an inexpensive and simple heating solution with minimal chance of injury (cats, dogs etc)? 2 reptile lights won't be enough.
4. Wet the ground or damp sheets....tarp or plastic = static?

*Please all comments, suggestions and warnings are much needed and greatly appreciated .
Click to expand...

How will you be applying the paint products......spraying, rolling or brushing on the paint?
 
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