blasting media

on page of that thread, im already turned off on using any kind of acid now. what else can i do? perhaps i am over thinking and blasting will remove it all any way........maybe. i think i know this answer, but will the epoxy last over some tiny rust specs? i will now assume the position and await my whipping.
 
mr Shine seems to advocate that fine media will get into those pits. i have so much to learn about blasting. you can read about it all you want but you wont understand it until you do it. and not give up the first time it gets aggravating, but really stick to it and learn.
at this point i need to get the tail gate done. idk when that guy is going to take a trip for crushed glass so i guess its back to TS for more of that powder slag. it does work. this time ill get several hundred pounds lol.
i need to get that done, every day it sits half blasted the more i will have to go back over the blasted part. i was not really ready to start, i severely underestimated media volume to get it done.
 
technique question, i have been blasting at a pretty long angle. is that wrong? in other words if i come at it straighter would it get the pits better?
still nursing the back, the wife said its actually bruised. old age sucks, but beats the alternative.
 
Doing that opens you up to breathing freee silica which is not good for you. Once or twice probably won''t hurt you but over time exposure to free silica can lead to silicosis which leads to pulmonary fibrosis which is non reversible. Much safer to use crushed glass or coal slag.

When I was 18-19, I worked for a glass manufacturer. We used silica for shipping, it was also automatically sprayed over architectural glass as it went down the production line after exiting the cathodes. As an unloader, I was constantly covered in silica - it got in our teeth, hair, clothes, undies, boots, socks, butt crack, and other foreign skin regions and forskin, and ears. Even though we wore masks and other protective clothing kevlar suits etc, silica was a nightmare to work with despite all the safety precautions. Acetone was the only thing that could remove most of it, but showering after work was a pain because it risked clogging the plumbing at home. It was just nasty.

We also used crushed glass to sandblast slag from cathodes, which housed bars of gold, titanium, silver, brass, and copper that were electrically charged to apply a thin film over architectural glass. It was a pretty cool setup. Yes, we used solid gold bars, and I handled thousands of them, each about 6"x10"x0.5", with around 24 gold bars per cathode. Brass was cool too. Funny thing about it... no security, no one cared to heist the company. Literally an 8'x10' steel cage, bars were stored in wood boxes that looked like ammo crates. I'm sure they have security guards today. That was a fun job, but a dead end, nonetheless fun.
 
hey guys, i know you say blasted is ready for epoxy, but i still have a coating of dust even after blowing off with compressed air. im pretty sure the rough surface is gonna snag any kind of rag or wipe? or am i over thinking again and just shoot it?
btw, all total about 500lb of abrasive lol. but the last couple hundred went much faster, im getting the hang of it now.
 
Unless you have dirty air or media, it's never going to be cleaner than freshly blasted.
the media is dusty. i wound using that fine slag from TS. tired of waiting. its dusty stuff and a little bit too fine, but its what i could get hold of.
i think i might try dusting it off with a dry rag, just to get some more loose dust off. i gotta get epoxy on it in this humidity.
 
never touch it with a rag. you'll be sorry lol. it will pull off all the fuzz from a rag and you cant get it off. if its too coated in dust and it wont blow off then i would put 710 in a spray bottle and spray the part until its dripping on the floor then blow dry with compressed air. basically a 710 rinse. i would do that all the time with small parts.
 
Another vote for blow it off and shoot it. Occasionally I will do as Jim said above and give a solvent W&G remover bath. You have to do it as Jim stated or else the contaminants will remain on the surface of what you blasted. But in most cases I just blow off and shoot epoxy. Like 1A Rock said above, "it's never going to be cleaner than when its white metal from fresh blasting.
 
eh, i found a new 4" bristle brush and swept it off. seems good to go. i spent a few hours this morning straightening up, cleaning, dumped all water traps, drained compressor etc. like you do. geez its hot.
 
advice please. there are some really small pitted areas i did NOT see until the first coat of epoxy. i can sure see them now. tailgates get slammed, i am apprehensive of using any filler on it. its about half a dozen spots in the top third outside, about the size of a dime. it would only take a very very thin bit to cover them. would you?
 
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