To add to OJ's great advice, sand the edge till it starts to feather out. If it keeps tearing and not feathering, keep sanding till it does. If you don't it will lift in a very short time. Like OJ said, sand it all thoroughly and start over. I don't like how the clear looks in the pic. All of the cloudy areas are showing that the clear is releasing. It should come off. I'm assuming it's a bedside. Sand it thoroughly, prime and proceed. Clear the whole bedside.
When you blend the key is to spray your coats no more than light-medium. Use a slow reducer (SPI recommended) First coat cover only the repair area. Second coat extend farther out by a couple of inches. Third coat extend the second coat by a couple of inches. It may take 4 or more coats to get everything copacetic. Never spray it wet.
You don't want to have hard stop/start areas. To accomplish this you need to feather the trigger and move the gun at the same time. What I mean by this is when you start a pass (if it's not at an edge) progressively pull the trigger while starting to move the gun. At the end of a pass you do the same only you are releasing the trigger while moving. That is key to not having a hard stop or start area. Practice on some masking paper.
If you are having trouble with the blend you can also use a blender product. SPI Intercoat would work well for this. Take your RTS base and the intercoat (activated or not ) and mix it 1:1. Then spray one to two more coats using the same technique as described above. You only want to do this after you get coverage of the repair area.
You can also put a "wet bed" of intercoat clear over the whole panel, let it flash, then proceed blending your color out. That might be easier for you to do. It helps with getting the metallic to "lay down".
Tack the panel after every coat. That is very important.