Breaker bar vs impact.

T

Tungsten

Promoted Users
My son came over to remove my back bumper,07 GM classic diesel.
I suggested my 2' breaker bar,he says hell no my 18v impact is better ,you'll break them.
Sure enough a light finger and slowly these rusty old nuts backed off.
A snipe on the old breaker bar probably would have sheared them off is my guess.
 
Can’t remember the last time I used a breaker bar. Unless possibly something like getting on a crank bolt inside an engine bad but still I have long ratchets for that.
 
A couple of guys from church were working on an ATV and tried a breaker bar with a pipe on the handle and couldn't get the nut off.
I let them borrow my 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench. They were both shocked at how easy the nut came off, in fact one of the guys went and bought one.
 
Issue is when putting things on, a real challenge not to over tighten. leads me to wast time doing everything by hand with a ratchet. I don't have a Milwaukee, the one I have has 3, I think they are actually speed settings, but they do seem to affect torque, and even on the lowest it can be too much. And I don't even let it ooga-dooga at all, lol.
 
the only thing i tighten with the milwaukee is lug nuts. it makes quick work of disassembling old rusted bumpers. usually just breaks the bolts off. sometimes loosens. just depends. big rear end trailing arm bolts, quick work.
 
RosharonRooster said:
the only thing i tighten with the milwaukee is lug nuts. it makes quick work of disassembling old rusted bumpers. usually just breaks the bolts off. sometimes loosens. just depends. big rear end trailing arm bolts, quick work.
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Try a little Kroil before using the impact. It’s a little expensive but it works great.
 
jtfx6552 said:
Issue is when putting things on, a real challenge not to over tighten. leads me to wast time doing everything by hand with a ratchet. I don't have a Milwaukee, the one I have has 3, I think they are actually speed settings, but they do seem to affect torque, and even on the lowest it can be too much. And I don't even let it ooga-dooga at all, lol.
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Most applications have torque specifications. I will use the impact wrench to quickly snug the nuts and then switch to a torque wrench to ensure adequate tightening.
 
I have done it with both. An Impact seems to have less chance simply by how they work. However, no one mentioned the times when an impact does not have enough juice and out comes old trusty and 3 feet of pipe. :D Loose or broke it does not matter, it is coming off. I recently got a 700 lb Dewalt 20V on sale....it is my new go too. No air hose to mess with, strong and mobile. Only wish it had the ring instead of the dowl for locking sockets on...that is why it was cheap and it can be a pita.
To add to the penetrant....T19 made by Boeing is great stuff and I have seen good things on CRC Knock'er Loose. KEEP ALL OF IT AWAY FROM YOUR IN PROCESS PAINT JOBS!
 
I have been using atf mixed with acetone for my deep creep. I put it in a pump oil can.

Soak and heat, if the bolts aren't rust fused and still have threads they come off, if rust fused bolts and threads are gone they snap.
 
Kawickrice said:
I have been using atf mixed with acetone for my deep creep. I put it in a pump oil can.

Soak and heat, if the bolts aren't rust fused and still have threads they come off, if rust fused bolts and threads are gone they snap.
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What ratio do you mix the two ?
 
I also prefer the impact, but sometimes you have to be patient with it. Too much power with anything will break the bolt at times, but as the name implies, the constant hammering of the impact will usually jar the nut loose if given time.
 
Had a 18v 1/2" drive impact take off a Honda crank bolt when nothing else would faze it.
 
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