careful of the runs..

danp76

danp76

Oldtimer
I've been doing some double clear coating, and boy what a difference! I do notice a slicker nicer finish as a result...HOWEVER ...it seems sooo much easier to get runs while spraying! I've been racing over the panel with my spray gun and still managing to get runs! I need a better technique of run removal, as I rarely would get runs when I'd conventionaly clear coat, maybe one here or there but not like when I double clear coat....tips?
 
Have you tried rolling a piece of 2" tape and lightly touching the run while wet to smooth it out? Its worked well for me. I'm assuming this is happening with Universal Clear. Have you tried upping the pressure a couple of lbs.?
 
If what you say is true, you may need to turn in your material adjustment a turn or so until you find a delivery rate that suits your speed on the reclear work.
 
I have tried the tape thing ,but hard to get it perfect that way. I guess I need to dial in my material, but I'll tell you it works perfect when not double clearing, almost as if the sanded clear is too slick and the clear wants to fall off the surface. I'm using Universal Clear.
 
The tape thing is a joke (and it doesn't work well AT ALL)....best thing to do is not run.

I love to double wet coat...here's what I learned having the same problem. Speeding up on the second wet coat is key...however...you have to know where the run areas are and why they run!!! So, any right angles you have to back off your clear!!!! On the first coat also, but especially the second coat. Think of it this way...if you have a bucket you put water in and you dump the water out and set the bucket back on the ground is there still water in the bucket? Yeah! But where???? In all the low spots and right angles. Clear does the same thing...only it runs when you have too much.


SO....picture your panel bumper fender...whatever...and think where does material group/gather...then you have to "fan" clear there...DON"T WET COAT that area....you may be dry there at first but try this method and practice at it and you won't regret it I promise! Try wet coating those areas after your done but you won't need as much material then....but observer where your runs are ...I guarantee they are always in the same place! Places that "catch" material! Hope this helps. PM me too if you want...I am always up for help myself and experiences from others! Thats how we learn and get better!
 
The re-clear will run easier because it doesn't have the basecoat to bite into, so it's important to have your gun set up for good atomization for a thin but slick wet 1st coat. The thicker the coat of clear is the longer it takes to setup and the more it will tend to run. Let the first coat tack up good and the next coats can go on wetter.
 
the tape trick for runs works killer for me, but yeah preventing them is the best way. to assume bobs experience and address it that way is dissapointing to see.
 
danp76;15555 said:
I need a better technique of run removal, as I rarely would get runs when I'd conventionaly clear coat, maybe one here or there but not like when I double clear coat....tips?
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I do it differently, some say the wrong way but it works for me.
I like to spray a couple light coats, kind of fast, then a heavier coat.
The firet couple light ones gives the final one something to hang on to
and it all melts together on the last one.
I use the slowest activator and reducer to keep the light ones wet.:)
 
Bob Hollinshead;15565 said:
The re-clear will run easier because it doesn't have the basecoat to bite into, so it's important to have your gun set up for good atomization for a thin but slick wet 1st coat. The thicker the coat of clear is the longer it takes to setup and the more it will tend to run. Let the first coat tack up good and the next coats can go on wetter.
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Exactly and that is why I also preach on re-flow coats to pay more attention to flash times. I don't think i have ever said less then 30 minutes flash, for re-coating.
 
danp76;15561 said:
I have tried the tape thing ,but hard to get it perfect that way. I guess I need to dial in my material, but I'll tell you it works perfect when not double clearing, almost as if the sanded clear is too slick and the clear wants to fall off the surface. I'm using Universal Clear.
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It does take a lot of practice and biggest trick is proper wait times.
I will take 3/4 inch tape and rip a 5'piece and with just the pressure of the tape touch the high spot of the run, using more fresh tape level the clear to were it should be.
At this point the clear should be level, the run gone and clear should have the tape mark look.
Let set 10-15 minutes, then hit that spot with a medium coat of clear, let flash and start clearing rest of job and when you get to this spot just treat it like rest of car.

Worst case is next day a light 1500 and buff, lot of times you will never find it.

Too me this is one of the best money makers a painter can master but it does take repetition, to master.
 
You guys are great! I appreciate all the comments and assistance, common sense told me that I'm spraying over a slicker surface, but wow I was surprised how easy it was to run when double clearing. I'll dial in my gun, air pressure was fine, mid 30's with rp 4000, 1.3. I was receiving fantastic results over basecoat, just need some practice on the double clear method...thanks guys!
 
Dan,

I learned the same lesson the same way. I did everything exactly the same and I got more runs than I would have liked. Now I know for the next time, and I got lots of practice at sanding out runs (which is easier than I thought it would be).
 
seems when I sand out runs I never get them perfect, either see a ghost stain where the run was, or sighting down panel can see a slight ripple, and I'm always worried I didn't leave enough clear. I can get them to look good from straight on, but sighting down panel at eye level, you can see it's not absolutely perfect.
 
I am certainly no expert...this is my first project so I have made more than my share of mistakes. I listened to the guys on here and sanded my first application of Universal with wet 600 then put on three more coats. I only had one run to speak of and that was at the top of a panel which sloped off a flat spot...classic danger area. My 240Z is all rounded panels and curves except for hood and top so I tried to be careful but wanted to not repeat my error of being too dry the first time. I waited a full 30 minutes between coats and that seemed to make all the difference in how I could spray. The re-clear for sure looks better and I am now starting to cut and buff and I hope there is enough product on there to not burn through.

Not to highjack the thread, but do you guys use slow settings on your buffer? I am thinking maybe 2 or 3 at the most...mine goes to 6 for a high.
 
if i shot it............... there's a sag on it . reason ?
first i dont see for shit anymore but more importantly i don't care. i would rather deal with several hangers than a panel full of peel.

when ready to buff ,place a piece of 2 in taper over it. rub it down good. sand with 320 wet on a hard block ( i use a small piece of wood ) sand through the tape into the run . by the time you start cutting the tape around it the run is gone. switch to 600 then 1000 etc and treat it like the rest.
if you do the tape trick and it shows a lot do it the same way.

runs mean your trying harder , peel means your afraid of it...... :)
 
i used the tape trick i learned here and sandpaper spray glued on a chopstick for the head on those tricky little runs on the edge of harley fenders.
 
I almost always get a run when going limited flash wet on wet......
 
Clausen;15564 said:
The tape thing is a joke (and it doesn't work well AT ALL)....best thing to do is not run.

Well, maybe your not using the right tape! LOL
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