careful of the runs..

Shine said:
runs mean your trying harder , peel means your afraid of it......
Click to expand...
^^
Couldnt agree more!!

Most everything I spray has a run. When I learned to spray almost 20 yrs ago ( damn I am getting old ), I enlisted the advice from a man whom I respected and had seen his work. Like Shine he said not to worry about runs.. He said something I have never forgotten.

" If you dont run it somewhere, you didnt spray it wet enough" That has never left my mind, and while I dont set out to run the clear, I always get some on an overall somewhere
 
I guess I need to perfect the method of run removal...I either run out of clear or can see a ripple or "ghost mark" where the run was...
 
I learned the hard way on my forst reclear, lol.

ya it flows better!!! hahahahaha

I was a sanding fool!
 
I want to add a small word of dissent to the opinion that it is not bad to get runs. I know that when I am off my game, or don't notice an improper gun adjustment right away, the result of a finish that is "almost running" will always have more urethane wave in it than a job that is more carefully controlled. That might also partly be a function of the way I spray, but I wouldn't want guys to get the idea they need to push it so hard they are practically running their jobs on purpose. I think the point is to find a place close enough to a run where the clear is happy and wet, but not moving around so much that gravity takes over! :)
 
Bondoskimmer;15595 said:
I almost always get a run when going limited flash wet on wet......
Click to expand...
That's why I haven't done it in 10 yrs.
 
Panel edges, door handle reliefs, lock cylinder holes, and the bottom of drip rails are the most common areas I'll get a small run but every once in awhile I'll get a curtain hanging off of a bodyline that shows me I'm out of control..... Then there's the times when the cure rate is perfect, airflow, temps, humidity, atomization, surface prep, planet alignment.... and it goes on so perfect you hate to colorsand and buff. There's lots of variables.

The best way to take care of a run is knock it down 80-90% and let the cure catch up with the rest of the job before you finish blocking it off and buffing. The cure of the run will always be delayed due to the extra thickness. If you block out a fresh run and buff to perfection it will always show back up once the cure is complete-sometimes the run area will shrink below the surface height of the rest of the finish.
 
Have you noticed already all the different ways to deal with runs?

Here is what is needed, some one start a post on how to sand runs and everyone post "how they do it", I have a couple of ways myself.
Here again, there is no one perfect way but what is perfect, is what works for you.

Also needed going by my calls.
We need a buffing thread.
If you use Maguires and are an expert give us your step by step, right down to the speed of the buffer for each step.
Same with the 3m experts.
I will get Andy to do a presta one.

All the time I say on the phone, can't help with the 3m as I don't know the part numbers and have never used it and same with the Maguires.
 
Bob Hollinshead;15615 said:
The best way to take care of a run is knock it down 80-90% and let the cure catch up with the rest of the job before you finish blocking it off and buffing. The cure of the run will always be delayed due to the extra thickness. If you block out a fresh run and buff to perfection it will always show back up once the cure is complete-sometimes the run area will shrink below the surface height of the rest of the finish.
Click to expand...

Bob I like to sand those runs with 320.. Then set it outside or put a lamp on it.. and heat cycle it ( heat for 20-30 minutes to about 120 and keep it there, then mist with water so it steams and let cool to normal temp, then repeat cycle ) to help force the cure to match the rate of the rest of the clear..
After that I will sand it up in grit to buffing grits and go from there.. Usally dont have an issue afterwards.. But if I hit it fresh and buff it will show as you sight down the panel every single time
 
Great posts! What an excellent forum, nice to be able to share all of our ideas and experiences so we can all learn different methods from one another. I'm new to the double clear situation, typically I have only double cleared hoods and decklids, particularly for racing stripes. I never double cleared a shell of a vehicle, but am learning the floooow of clear on vertical surfaces when double clearing. I consider myself a newbie, althought time goes by faster then I think as I've been painting cars since 1995 or so...is that really almost 17 years??!! wow hard to believe...but still a newbie to you oldtimers on here lol...Thanks guys!
 
A buffing thread would be good, some video would also be good for firstimers. Barry, if you don't have stock in Presta give the 3M stuff a try, have Andy use both. The speeds will be similar.
 
Bob,
What I tell people on the phone weekly, is I have used Presta for 15 or so years, know exactly what it does, what pads to use, so it is very efficient for me and no surprises.

I believe all the compounds are great today but you must know how to use each one, down to speed of buffer and MOST important today is the right pad for the compound.

I also tell people everyday that if you know a system, stick with it or you will be learning all over.
 
Ran both the bumpers I painted today...that's what I get!! LOL...Tried the 2 inch tape thing again today. My problem is I don't know when to leave it alone. I didn't make it worse...but I would rather not run something.
 
when i get a run it just makes me focus more on trying not to get a run on the next project. nothing like taking 15 minutes to spray something and then spending an hour removing the frickin run.
 
I use tape if I get a run, and have had good luck with it, what I have done in the past to add to it is right after I pull the tape is to spray a really light mist of fade out spray on it to help it level out, then continue clearing as normal.
 
Chad.S;15694 said:
I use tape if I get a run, and have had good luck with it, what I have done in the past to add to it is right after I pull the tape is to spray a really light mist of fade out spray on it to help it level out, then continue clearing as normal.
Click to expand...

My runs usually don't show up until a few minutes after I'm done clearing...and I tend to make them worse by messing with them. I have found in certain cases if you have a drip point in the run, sometimes you can use a cue tip with a small amount of reducer in it...and I mean a small amount and lightly dab the outer edge and if you haven't soaked up too much reducer the cue tip will soak up the excess clear. I have also found if I make a "mental practice clear run" and take note of the potential run areas that cuts down maybe 80-90% of my runs....the best thing here IMO is experience...and every one has a unique perspective, and if you are not a jerk or arrogant (myself included...or especially me...LOL) then pick every ones brain and find out what they use and try everything. (As may me obvious from my first point I have to remind myself of this from time to time, especially when I put my foot in my mouth. ;) )
 
Speaking of runs.. lol i'm in the middle of painting and just put one in my bed. lol. i'm not messing with it, will be a easy one to get out.
 
LOL...the funny thing is whenever you get cocky life tends to humble you. I run my mouth...and run my paint as soon as I open my mouth cause I know so much (LOL).... after all my advice is "hey learn how not to run stuff run and you'll be fine"...LOL. Truth is I learned a long time ago that's never gonna happen if you paint the way you are supposed to..... we aren't machines!!! And that's a good thing...ever look closely at factory paint jobs??? Lesson learned...or is it, some times we need to be reminded.

BTW, let me clarify something...the 2 inch tape thing doesn't work for me because of ME. I have had to learn over the years to leave well enough alone. I tend to try to fix problems like this and make them worse cause I keep fiddling with them. I am a kind of all or nothing personality.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top