Clean areas after dustless blasting

Thanks for the explanation! I will scotchbrite as much as I can.
This is the whole question with your post. You said you did not want to wash it, then week or so later were still asking, then claimed you already washed it and epoxied it, now you are saying you will scotch brite it.

There is alot of knowledge here, sometimes you are straight with people and get kicked under the bus, other times you get helpful responses. Just dont know what stage you are really at now.
 

dremmick

New Member
This is the whole question with your post. You said you did not want to wash it, then week or so later were still asking, then claimed you already washed it and epoxied it, now you are saying you will scotch brite it.

There is alot of knowledge here, sometimes you are straight with people and get kicked under the bus, other times you get helpful responses. Just dont know what stage you are really at now.

The exterior of the car was epoxied 2 days after it was blasted. The inside and trunk were not. Surprisingly there was not flash rust on the non coated parts for 3 weeks until I treated a few areas with oshpo and neutralized it last night.
 

giggity

Member
I used dustless blasting...
couple things....they should be adding waterborn rust inhibitor to the water tank while blasting. Then after blasting, high pressure water with rust inhibitor this knocks the caked on media off. Then it should sit outside on a sunny day, with heat to dry off, and hit with compressed air. Depending on where your located and humidity, you need to get epoxy on soon. And yes hit with 80 grit first, light hit, dont go crazy.
 

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chevman

Oldtimer
The exterior of the car was epoxied 2 days after it was blasted. The inside and trunk were not. Surprisingly there was not flash rust on the non coated parts for 3 weeks until I treated a few areas with oshpo and neutralized it last night.
As giggity said, they use a rust inhibitor (Holdtight) that doesn't have to be rinsed off. When I use phosphoric acid on small parts and rinse with hot water, then wipe with a cloth before using compressed air to fully dry, the parts will not flash rust for several days and even weeks depending on where they are stored.

I have a pile of small panels right now that were acid cleaned three weeks ago and have no flash rust, but they have been in the shop at 70 degrees the whole time. The summer humidity will make them flash rust in just a few days. Flash rust is about the water, and how long the parts or panels stay wet. Some people think of Holdtight as just a salt remover, but you can also buy Holdtight to rinse with, although they recommend using it in a pressure washer for best results.
 

Chris111

New Member
Everything I have read about it, Dustless Blasting, its not 100 and 1 percent accepted by the restoration industry yet. Shine knows his stuff, there are work arounds to get it done.

Do not give up on ospho, I have used it with success as a Novice, it took me multiple applications, rinsing, and multiple washings of both types of wax and grease remover. I kinda over do stuff on prep. Its the most important step.
 

shine

Member
ospho has been around since moby dick was a minnow . it does exactly what it claims . BUT do not listen to their tech guys . you can not paint over it unless it is alkyd enamel . it's very simple. apply it let it set then rinse before it drys .
as for dustless blasting it is no better than any other media . it was developed to cut prep cost on industrial jobs like water towers . before they had to tent the whole tower , now they just have to remove the media and paint when done .
and dont believe for a moment that they cant warp panels with it .
 

giggity

Member
Amen to that!
for sure...it you turn the pressure up and put the right tip on it, you can probably cut that sheet metal.

The span tip, with pressure right...it didnt even try to warp. I blasted a small thin piece, and still no warping. Again...I had never used the machine prior, and didnt know much about them.
 
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