Cleaner strengths?

mitch_04

Learnin'
I am starting this post in hopes of a possible sticky to look back on. Not sure if it's in the correct section of the forum, but here we go!

What "cleaners" are there, weakest to strongest? It seems most W&G removers are, basically, a mixture of different spirits in whatever ratio the manufacturer chooses for their chosen outcome. Is there or can we get a list going of easy going to nastiest?

Like, is naptha stronger than acetone? Which ones shouldn't be used on plastic (and why)? Seems like we could create a really handy guide, and by we, I mean all the smart folks on here that I try to learn from!

I purchased an old school amplifier that someone rattle canned and I want to remove as much as possible without ruining the original finish...and that led to this post!
 
well napthha is almost like a high grade mineral spirits. mineral spirits/naptha are more of an oil base product or what you use to thin oil base paint. its extremely gentile. i can wipe delicate airbrush work done in basecoat with straight mineral spirits and it does not remove any of it. 710 is this type of w&g remover but its a little stronger because its a blend of other solvents as well. so for a list of what to try in order here is where i would go, weakest to strongest.

mineral spirits
710
700
700 mixed 12:1 with fast-slow spi reducer
spi retarder
spi vht/895 reducer
lacquer thinner
acetone

lacquer thinner and acetone are very close in strength but that depends on what the blend is.
 
Im seeing a lot of wax and grease removers now that have different solvents in them instead of the blends of mineral spirits,
This, to me, is scary over fresh base coats if you need to repair.
The 710 is nothing more than a blend of mineral spirits so would be weaker than, say one with mek or toluene added.
But safer on a basecoat.
 
Hello,
What would be your advises to properly clean rims before the sanding process,I have first cleaned them off with a wheel cleaner and I'd like to reclear the rims before they get oxydated.
Should I start a new post ?
Terry
 
Use anything strong, 700, dawn original, simple green, purple power Before sanding
Than a wax and grease remover before paint like 700 or 710.
If aluminum coating must be applied the same day of sanding.
 
Are those too strong to clean panels with before the repair process?
I think they are talking about cleaning rims. OP, keep in mind if they are aluminum rims any of the purple cleaners will attack aluminum. Simple green would be safer if working with aluminum rims.
 
Hello,
Rims are from MY daily RAM,good condition with minor oxydation under the clear so I was thinking I could maybe add a black multimetalic into the clear to hide those oxydations marks.
Just want them to be nicer,protected and not having to take off everthing to the aluminum and then start with a bigger job,this is for my personnal use and not in the intention of selling the truck.
Give me your advises,do you think I'm getting to the wrong direction.
Thanks
 

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I think they are talking about cleaning rims. OP, keep in mind if they are aluminum rims any of the purple cleaners will attack aluminum. Simple green would be safer if working with aluminum rims.
Correct. I was wondering if it can be used on clear coat. Purple Power web site says "NO!".
 
lol i have been washing my cars with the zep purple cleaner for prob 15 years. spray it down, powerwash off. everything that comes in here for paint gets a spray down with it before prep so its stripped of wax, dirt, oils, etc.
 
lol i have been washing my cars with the zep purple cleaner for prob 15 years. spray it down, powerwash off. everything that comes in here for paint gets a spray down with it before prep so its stripped of wax, dirt, oils, etc.
Good to know! The cars I work on are covered in silicone and other dealer garbage.
 
Used wheels are usually road oil and a silicone mess. That's why I recommended the green and purple cleaners first.
 
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