cleaning with lacquer thinner

Would this 50/50 mix of Acetone and MEK be good to clean bare metal with prior to spraying epoxy?

Danford1
 
SPI 700-1 is what you want to use to clean metal before epoxy. It's been tested to work with the epoxy and you always know it's pure, unlike hardware store solvents.
 
Was helping friend several years ago at his house paint his car. He had some lacquer thinner from a big box store and after cleaning spray gun with it we had major fisheye problems. After I brought what I use next day no more problems.
 
crashtech;n81549 said:
SPI 700-1 is what you want to use to clean metal before epoxy. It's been tested to work with the epoxy and you always know it's pure, unlike hardware store solvents.
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Yes I read that recently... Waiting 45 minutes for it to dry is what kills me. Some of us don't have that much time to sit and wait. I suppose what I may do is wipe down the metal then while waiting for it to dry, mix the epoxy because That needs to sit 30-45 minutes too. By then the metal will be dry but probably have more dust or "stuff" on it from sitting around so long (I'm in my garage, not a fancy shop). Sounds like a tack rag is needed for that.

I remember back when I used Dupont products. They had something called Final Klean. It seemed Great. You scrubbed down the parts with it just before you painted them.
No sitting around waiting was needed. Just wipe it dry and start spraying. It worked great... I wonder if they still sell that?

Danford1
 
Sure they still sell it its made as a last mild cleaner before base, its not going to clean metal good at all and most likely a waste of time and material.

Also I need to correct myself when I said mineral spirits are no good, I was referring to the ones you get at the big box store made for stains, there are 100's of types of mineral spirits and the ones used and wax and grease removers are way different.
 
Barry;n81315 said:
When i get the call about a few bubbles popping up here or there, I can right away from where the bubbles are tell them, the metal was cleaned with thinner or acetone, it has its own road-map as to what and how it happens and when the truth comes out,I'm always right in my guess. Yes it's a great cleaner but will always cause a problem on 3 or 4 panels when an allover is done that way.
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Barry, when I read the contents of your waterborn wax and grease cleaner, one of the ingredients is acetone. But I was understanding acetone was not to be used in prep for SPI Epoxy Primer. Is it becasue the difference in an application of straight acetone is not compatable, but acetone mixed in with the other ingredients in waterborn is ok?
 
Small amount used and the evaporation point with the other items in there over ride it.
 
danford1;n81566 said:
Yes I read that recently... Waiting 45 minutes for it to dry is what kills me. Some of us don't have that much time to sit and wait. I suppose what I may do is wipe down the metal then while waiting for it to dry, mix the epoxy because That needs to sit 30-45 minutes too. By then the metal will be dry but probably have more dust or "stuff" on it from sitting around so long (I'm in my garage, not a fancy shop). Sounds like a tack rag is needed for that.
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30-45 minutes is set as a standard because there is no way to know the environmental conditions where it's being used. If you have high humidity and/or a wet floor, then yes, a long wait time is smart. But in low humidity conditions, 30 minutes is overkill. There is a technique where the water base is followed by solvent base, apparently this gets rid of the water base residue and speeds the process. Barry might be able to add something about that. I know that in the high desert where I work, 15 minutes is plenty. We just come back in and blow off the panel to make sure there are no hidden places the liquid may have pooled up, and go.

I don't think inventing a shortcut procedure is going to end well. Some guys might get away with it for a while, but eventually it is going to bite back. For those who need speed over quality, there is always the acid etch that major paint makers still recommend to put over bare metal.
 
danford1;n81540 said:
Would this 50/50 mix of Acetone and MEK be good to clean bare metal with prior to spraying epoxy?

Danford1
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MEK and Acetone have a very close evaporation rate, so if you looked it up and figured the mix exactly as need to make them equal, it would work BUT why gamble like Shine said, to me this is done on only an emergency basis for small items.
To me this is like buying stuff for car paint at HD or Lowes, not made for it and has no place near automotive paints.
Best example is the blue shop towel at the big box stores and automotive parts stores, NOT the same as ones you get from a paint jobber and they give a new meaning to fish-eyes.sometimes.
I will never understand considering the cost of paint to screw up the foundation coat so it all comes apart down the road.
 
No insult intended to those who are asking these types of questions, but Barry how do you keep from banging your head against a wall after answering these types of questions over and over again? I couldn't do it.
 
This one took a toll on me, I like to give people some facts to back up what i say but afterthought feel I made a big mistake and wish I would have stayed out of this.
 
if you cant afford to give cleaner flash time then you'll have no luck with painting . you dont set the rules the solvents do .
 
danford1;n81566 said:
Yes I read that recently... Waiting 45 minutes for it to dry is what kills me. Some of us don't have that much time to sit and wait. I suppose what I may do is wipe down the metal then while waiting for it to dry, mix the epoxy because That needs to sit 30-45 minutes too. By then the metal will be dry but probably have more dust or "stuff" on it from sitting around so long (I'm in my garage, not a fancy shop). Sounds like a tack rag is needed for that.

I remember back when I used Dupont products. They had something called Final Klean. It seemed Great. You scrubbed down the parts with it just before you painted them.
No sitting around waiting was needed. Just wipe it dry and start spraying. It worked great... I wonder if they still sell that?

Danford1
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I found it on ebay after losing my source at least the 3901S. I saw other places in a plastic jug called 3909s. Got two gallons this time. But you are supposed to wipe it on and then follow up and immediately wipe the residue off with another clean rag.

Sorry if I caused a mess in here, I thought you were talking about line wash for the guns and just suggested you give yours a kick with MEK or Acetone if you are not getting a fast enough clean or end up with sticky guns after you thought they were clean since nobody should be using lacquer thinner to clean a car..
 
believe me you cant get away from washing with thinner . on the vette sites that's all you hear. use stripper then scrub with scotchbrite and lacquer thinner .
 
Can't they understand that nobody knows what's in that stuff anymore? It's an insane idea. Matter of fact, I was so disappointed in the last 5 of wash thinner I got from my jobber, I'm just going to use fast reducer from now on to keep my recycled stuff fresh. Wash thinner is not even good for first stage gun cleaning anymore, imo. Yeah, it will cost quite a bit. Guess what, this kind of work costs money if you want to do things right.
 
no matter what site you go to you still get the snake oils and bs 100 dollar kit stuff. i've watch one good painters site after another go south . my favorite is when they ask a professional painter if he has used the cheap junk. i can assure you after 40+ years i do not need to waste time and money to know not to use it so yes i can have an opinion on it without using it .
 
shine;n81640 said:
believe me you cant get away from washing with thinner . on the vette sites that's all you hear. use stripper then scrub with scotchbrite and lacquer thinner .
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on metal vettes or just the fiberglass?
 
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