Clear coat peeled off during while unmasking

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NewbPainter67

Hello, I am new to painting and must say it's a pretty lengthy process. I have a lot of respect for you guys out there that does this for a living. So much respect!

I screwed up while unmasking or demasking (not sure what you guys call it) my car. I was peeling off the tape and lifted the clear off the base. I guess the tape came off and got on the car. My dumb behind did not pay attention while spraying clear so the clear coat cured while the tape was on the edge of the car. Also, one edge did not get covered with clear (again, due to me not doing a better job masking). They are small issues as they are probably 1/16 to 1/4 of an inch.

This is my first paint and was wondering what do you guys do to correct the problem? Should I blend or re-clear the whole panel? I was thinking of spraying more base and re-clearing. What grit do you guys recommend when sanding the clear? I sprayed 4 coats of clear. Thank you and really appreciate the suggestions.
 
What panel, car, and where is the issue located? What color? What brand basecoat? Any chance you can post a pic?
 
It's on the passenger door at the edge where my weather stripping goes on to. Color is red and base is omni.

IMAG0813.jpg
 
Hard to tell from small pic but it looks like you may have over masked (the tape was slightly on the panel) so when you pulled the tape off came the fresh base and clear. It can also happen if the clear was especially thick on that panel and it bridged over. When paint is fresh it hasn't achieved maximum adhesion. This can happen even with a quality base and clear. Also, always pull the tape at an angle toward the pull direction. If that doesn't make sense maybe some one can elaborate.
 
Sand the clear edge till it's flush with some 1000 grit wet and scuff the rest of the door, clean, remask, clean, spot paint more color over the repair area-one or two LIGHT coats should probably do, then reclear the whole door. Being it's red you might be able to just get away with reclearing without any color application if you don't sand into the color much but some colors will change slightly when sanded so it's best the er on the cautious side and dust a little color on. Allow a good amount of flash time between coats of color-you want the solvent to evaporate out asap so it doesn't try to soak under that thin edge of clear which would cause wrinkling. It's always best to remove those belt mouldings for the paintwork if possible.
 
As a little insurance, use a razor blade and run it under the crevices to remove any tape that you may have overlayed on the panel. But, Mr. Hollinshead point of removing items is the best way.
 
Rodman - you got it right bud... The tape came off and I did apply 4 coats of UV clear, but it's primarily my fault for not masking the car better.

Bob and AAE - I will definitely do what you two suggested.

It's been 5 days since I sprayed the clear and was wondering if it's ok to sand? My car is on jacks and I can't roll it outside to let it cure under the sun. It is about 80-85 degrees in my garage.

Many THANKS fellas for your help.
 
It's ok to sand, remember the only real critical thing here is to put the color on light and give it plenty of flash time so the solvent comes out of the base as quick as possible. Being it's a solid red it will blend just fine so there's no special application techniques needed. A metallic color would require more finesse to get it right-solid color is easy. Dial your gun down so it's only spraying a minimal amount of color or just do a partial trigger pull, test spray something to verify if needed, or you could use a detail gun if you have one. All you need is a little color over the repair area. Of course the base when it flashes will be flat and have no gloss so it will look different than the rest of the panel but it will all be the same once it's recleared. Hope this makes sense.
 
Thanks Bob!

here is my plan...

1. Sand it down flat with 1000 grit
2. Spray 2 light coats of base and let is flash real good (probably will point a heat lamp to it)
3. Repsray UV clear (2 Coats or is one 1 coat fine?)

I am painting in stages to be polite to my neighbors. I've sprayed the fenders and doors. Next will be the body and hood so I will correct the issue at the same time as the body and hood.
 
If your garage is 80+ degrees, you could skip the heat lamp IMO. You may cause more trouble than it's worth (like the last time I tried it, tripped over the cord and ended up with a dent). Just wait 45 minutes between coats of base if you want to be really sure all the solvents are out. Clear the next day.
 
Clearing it the next day is another option I was thinking about, but I've read some where online that it needs to be cleared sooner. I don't remember which site, but I would prefer to clear it the next day.
 
Next day is always good but not a necessity if you give the color a decent amount of flash time. You do get the best gloss retention, clarity, and durability when the clear is applied over a base that has purged it's solvents well.
 
Thanks!

I'm hoping to finish painting in two weeks. I have to paint the body, hood, Jambs, and the door. Wish me luck!

Thanks guys for all the help.
 
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