MikeS
Camaro Nut
Hello group,
I’ve searched the SPI archives and could not find an answer to this question so I’ll ask my first here. Before I do I wanted to say that I have learned so much studying the topics here and it has made my confidence level so high that it felt like I have done BB/CC for years.
Now to the question: For three wet coats of SPI UV Clear (reduced with 4001-1) sprayed out of an Iwata LPH400 with a 1.4/silver cap, fan one turn down from fully open, 3 full turns out on the fluid control and 20 pounds on the gun inlet (trigger pulled) what approximate dry film thickness in mils would you expect? Spraying approximately 5” from the surface the coats went down wet with the last one having produced 2 small runs that were easily removed with a nib file and later with a maple block w/1000 grit paper to feather. I only mention this to give you an idea of my speed. The car surface temperature averaged 68-70 degrees when using an infrared thermometer. I sprayed this last fall in November in a heated garage so I was careful to monitor the surface temps.
I ask this because this is my first time spraying BC/CC (used to do SS) and have wet sanded the clear 4 months later starting with 3M’s Imperial P600 wrapped snug on a 10” 'Preppin Weapon block and the 5.25” 3M black firm block for smaller areas. The shallow orange peel and some dust nibs were removed quickly and I stopped just when the surface had a uniform dullness to it. Then, followed up with dry guide coat and cross hatched directions using 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 and 5000. The 3000 and 5000 were cushioned backed pads. I started with P600 as a precautionary measure in case there was any urethane wave present and stopped sanding with each grit after all the guide coat was gone. I’ve read in the SPI forum many times how the wave (ripple) became visible only after buffing so I decided to lead off with 600 grit. With a 5000 grit finish the panels’ reflections are very clear and shop light edges straight when looking sideways so I plan on buffing with Meguiars medium cut compound on a foam pad followed up with their swirl remover polish on a foam pad and complete it with carnauba wax.
What keeps tugging at me now is if there is the required minimum 2 mil clear thickness. I don’t want to risk polishing through the clear and hit the base (a solid color being butternut yellow) and cause more work so I’m now second guessing myself and wonder if I should flow coat it, if it is really necessary that is. If I do have to flow coat will using a gray Scotch-Brite pad suffice to prep the surface for two more wet coats of UV clear or gently hit it with P800 wet and a firm sanding pad.
I appreciate your opinions and suggestions.
Thank You,
Mike
I’ve searched the SPI archives and could not find an answer to this question so I’ll ask my first here. Before I do I wanted to say that I have learned so much studying the topics here and it has made my confidence level so high that it felt like I have done BB/CC for years.
Now to the question: For three wet coats of SPI UV Clear (reduced with 4001-1) sprayed out of an Iwata LPH400 with a 1.4/silver cap, fan one turn down from fully open, 3 full turns out on the fluid control and 20 pounds on the gun inlet (trigger pulled) what approximate dry film thickness in mils would you expect? Spraying approximately 5” from the surface the coats went down wet with the last one having produced 2 small runs that were easily removed with a nib file and later with a maple block w/1000 grit paper to feather. I only mention this to give you an idea of my speed. The car surface temperature averaged 68-70 degrees when using an infrared thermometer. I sprayed this last fall in November in a heated garage so I was careful to monitor the surface temps.
I ask this because this is my first time spraying BC/CC (used to do SS) and have wet sanded the clear 4 months later starting with 3M’s Imperial P600 wrapped snug on a 10” 'Preppin Weapon block and the 5.25” 3M black firm block for smaller areas. The shallow orange peel and some dust nibs were removed quickly and I stopped just when the surface had a uniform dullness to it. Then, followed up with dry guide coat and cross hatched directions using 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 and 5000. The 3000 and 5000 were cushioned backed pads. I started with P600 as a precautionary measure in case there was any urethane wave present and stopped sanding with each grit after all the guide coat was gone. I’ve read in the SPI forum many times how the wave (ripple) became visible only after buffing so I decided to lead off with 600 grit. With a 5000 grit finish the panels’ reflections are very clear and shop light edges straight when looking sideways so I plan on buffing with Meguiars medium cut compound on a foam pad followed up with their swirl remover polish on a foam pad and complete it with carnauba wax.
What keeps tugging at me now is if there is the required minimum 2 mil clear thickness. I don’t want to risk polishing through the clear and hit the base (a solid color being butternut yellow) and cause more work so I’m now second guessing myself and wonder if I should flow coat it, if it is really necessary that is. If I do have to flow coat will using a gray Scotch-Brite pad suffice to prep the surface for two more wet coats of UV clear or gently hit it with P800 wet and a firm sanding pad.
I appreciate your opinions and suggestions.
Thank You,
Mike