Compressor Set Up Question

D

Don 68

Hello,
I am getting ready to run about 60+' of black iron pipe to plum in my compressor and need some pro advise on a few things. First of all do you think I should use 1/2" or 3/4" pipe and would 60' be a long enough run to cool the air down? The compressor is a Ingersoll Rand, 5 hp, 80 gal tank, 15.8 cfm @ 90psi (or so the tank says). It also seems to me that the inside of the pipe could rust over time and I was thinking about coating the inside with epoxy primer. Has this been done before? Would I be just wasting time and material doing this? Does anyone know if this would help, hinder or have any effect on heat removal from the pipe? I searched to see if this has been covered before but I couldn't find anything. Oh yeah, this is for a set up in my building behind my house so it won't be used in a commercial setting.
Advise is appreciated.
Don
 
I wouldn't epoxy coat the inside, a lot of that iron pipe does have oil in and on it so it wouldn't hurt to swab it out before assembly. Copper would be best though.
 
After doing numerous black pipe installs, I switched to 3/4" copper and never looked back.

1) The ease of sweating the joints over threading the pipe alone is worth it.
2) As noted, it won't rust
3) If you want to add/change the system, a tubing cutter is far easier to wield than a hacksaw. Did I mention you don't have to thread it ?
4) It's lighter
5) After the zombie apocalypse, you can't melt it down and make bullets.
 
never used black iron and never will. unless you have a perfect dry air it will rust and particles fall into the airstream. i have done 3 systems over the years using gal iron and all were fantastic. cost difference for gal over black is marginal. with that all said. copper is prob #1 choice.
 
Thanks for the replies.
OK, 3/4" copper pipe it is. I have sweated a few copper pipes in the past and I think I can handle the job. It looks like I have a choice in copper pipe at the local Home Depot. They have a type "L" that has a wall thickness of .090 and rated at 1002 psi. They also have a type "M" that has a wall thickness of .064 and rated at 701 psi which is about $7.00 less per length than the type "L". I know the type "L" has to be best but what would you guys use? Could I get away with using the type "M"?
Don
 
I use L type for piece of mind and since your run is relatively short, the cost difference will be minimal. In addition, as the joints are the weak link, silver solder is recommended for pressure applications.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top