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Concrete coating

#1
Hey guys, I did a couple of searches, and haven't found an answer that satisfies me! I poured a concrete floor in my shop about 6-8 months ago, and I would like to seal it with something to keep the dust down, and fluids from absorbing. Solvent based sealer is the best answer I've found so far, but does anyone have any experience or recommendations? The joints have been filled with a self leveling product made for that purpose.
 
#2
epoxy . but keep in mind once sealed any fluid spill is slick as hell .

AND DO NOT USE THOSE DAMN SPRINKLES.... PERIOD !!!!!
 

EddieF

Top Banana
#5
I've been wanting to epoxy my garage floor properly for 15yrs.
Prior people used exterior water paint, people before them did same in different color.
Thinking wood floor sander & soak sanding disc in epoxy first so i could use wet...maybe. No stone grinding.
If voc's wasn't issue, i'd try 2 gallons of spi epoxy.

Fleck will eat any mop every time i read and was warned. I'd listen to Shine.
 
#6
you use those little flakes it is impossible to find anything on the floor. i used them in my build room. looks pretty. drop a small screw or washer and you'll be going full csi to find it .
 
#10
You can also go to your local concrete supplier and get clear concrete "Super Diamond" sealer from Euclid that is the best clear concrete sealer you can buy.

The issue with using a concrete Epoxy like what you might get from Lowe's, Home Depot etc. is they are home owner grade and like that grade of product you can only expect so much performance from it. I would go with a product from Elite Crete systems or Epoxy Plus. To do it properly you have to prep it, it does not work well over a hard (smooth) trowel finish that can range from using muriatic acid to wash and etch the surface to renting a diamond grinder to rough up the surface to get it to stick, like sanding the paint on your car. You also need to apply a high quality moisture vapor barrier and primer to get the best results that will last and hold up the longest. Prep is key to getting a long lasting job.

As for bubbles and pin holes there are tools that work best for applying the product from rollers, squeegee's and spiked rollers.
 
#11
mine has been down for close to 10 years. but it is my build room so it sees little traffic. did have a spot come loose from turning a tire . but the floor was 10 years old and stained when i put it down. no prep because i could not rinse it out. best sealer is done when it is poured. my new shop will be sealed then painted with white epoxy .
 
#13
My last house, I did UCoat-It. It held up good, but slick as snot when you have snow on your shoes. My current house, I got the cheap rustoleum stuff from Lowe's because I only planned on staying here for a couple years... 9 years later, and lots of abuse, it looks terrible and has not held up. Welding and grinding sparks destroys this stuff. I asked Barry about SPI, and he said that anything you spill on it, such as bondo, will stick too. Also, I think he said something about tire marks. If I do it again, I may try SPI epoxy, that way I could touch it up or apply another coat whenever I need to. If I recall, it was $700 to do a 3 car with U Coat It with epoxy / clear coat. SPI would be much less. Sometimes I think a clear sealer would be the best option.
 
#15
Sealer coat- reduce coating to be used? When time cones, i want white finish.
If your talking about using concrete sealer like what I mentioned then no you use it right out of the can. It is designed to penetrate and seal, you will see after you apply it your concrete will look like it is going bat-s@$t it will turn dark and you will see every eggshell crack on the surface but it will go away once it is dry and return to looking normal but will be sealed. You want to use a roller to apply an even layer. From there you can choose to leave it that way or check with the manufacture of the white Epoxy to see what they recommend you do for prepping the floor so it sticks good to the sealed concrete.
 
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