I am a little confused with the some of the times between primers and color coat, so let me state my thoughts and see what feedback I receive.
I have a 69 Mach 1 and I have replaced virtually every piece of metal except the roof structure and the VIN tag. I am having the base and clear sprayed professionally in a booth,
The metal came in two versions, the black EDP and the silver weld thru primers. The black parts, I cleaned and scuffed with red scotchbrite, and the weld thru, I DA’d with 80 grit. Both got final cleanings with SPI cleaners. The parts are all getting SPI epoxy initially.
My plan was to epoxy, 2k, then epoxy and final sand with 500-600 range paper. Then I was going to jamb and fit the doors, then jamb the fenders and mount them, that way I can transport the body, ready for external paint. The body is stripped and on a frame jig. I wanted to do it this way to make it easier to transport everything and get a good even final paint without worrying about damage during door alignment, etc. I figure at my speed, I will be at the end of August before the body is ready to transport and paint.
Now my questions: I am reading that the 1-2 month delay in painting will effect adhesion between the epoxy primer and base coat. Is this correct? The color is going to be a GM Hyper blue metallic, so it’s a lighter blue? Will this metallic blue require the 500-600 final sand, because I thought I read Barry said you would be lucky to get 400 grit on the primer? Could I wait the 1.5-2 months and let the epoxy harden and then final sand the exterior with 500-600? Would that help the adhesion issue?
If the epoxy is a no go on the 2 month window, my second thought was to final sand the 2k primer with the 500-600 grit and base coat over the 2k. Is that a viable alternative? Will the 2k have a longer window (2 month) to get the base coat sprayed? Is a sealer required or necessary?
On a side note, I have 3 quarts of Slicksand left. My deck lid had some ripples I couldn’t quite get out after welding, and I sprayed it with un-reduced Slicksand thru a 2.5 gun, and it sprayed nice and smooth and I had no issues, so I guess Slicksand is a option for a final coat too.
I am a little out of my element, so I appreciate any advice or concerns. My shop has A/C so I can control the temp pretty well, while spraying.
Thanks, Chris
I have a 69 Mach 1 and I have replaced virtually every piece of metal except the roof structure and the VIN tag. I am having the base and clear sprayed professionally in a booth,
The metal came in two versions, the black EDP and the silver weld thru primers. The black parts, I cleaned and scuffed with red scotchbrite, and the weld thru, I DA’d with 80 grit. Both got final cleanings with SPI cleaners. The parts are all getting SPI epoxy initially.
My plan was to epoxy, 2k, then epoxy and final sand with 500-600 range paper. Then I was going to jamb and fit the doors, then jamb the fenders and mount them, that way I can transport the body, ready for external paint. The body is stripped and on a frame jig. I wanted to do it this way to make it easier to transport everything and get a good even final paint without worrying about damage during door alignment, etc. I figure at my speed, I will be at the end of August before the body is ready to transport and paint.
Now my questions: I am reading that the 1-2 month delay in painting will effect adhesion between the epoxy primer and base coat. Is this correct? The color is going to be a GM Hyper blue metallic, so it’s a lighter blue? Will this metallic blue require the 500-600 final sand, because I thought I read Barry said you would be lucky to get 400 grit on the primer? Could I wait the 1.5-2 months and let the epoxy harden and then final sand the exterior with 500-600? Would that help the adhesion issue?
If the epoxy is a no go on the 2 month window, my second thought was to final sand the 2k primer with the 500-600 grit and base coat over the 2k. Is that a viable alternative? Will the 2k have a longer window (2 month) to get the base coat sprayed? Is a sealer required or necessary?
On a side note, I have 3 quarts of Slicksand left. My deck lid had some ripples I couldn’t quite get out after welding, and I sprayed it with un-reduced Slicksand thru a 2.5 gun, and it sprayed nice and smooth and I had no issues, so I guess Slicksand is a option for a final coat too.
I am a little out of my element, so I appreciate any advice or concerns. My shop has A/C so I can control the temp pretty well, while spraying.
Thanks, Chris