Cut and buffed to a haze. Sealed in the clear?
- Thread starter slideways
- Start date
Just my $.02 here. If you sprayed 4 coats of UV, 1500 grit will not get rid of the peel. If you are going for a flat/glass finish. 1000 might, but you'll have to work it. UV is pretty thick stuff, depending on how you sprayed it and what gun setup you used its gonna take some elbow grease to get it flat with even 1000. I usually start with 600/800 depending on "out of the gun" finish.
Some may think its flat with 1500, but its all in ones interpretation of "flat"
Again, just my opinion.
Some may think its flat with 1500, but its all in ones interpretation of "flat"
Again, just my opinion.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Sanding with 1000 grit and a hard block.
This is orange peel that is still remaining. Notice how careful you need to be at the edges of the panel. The same is true at body lines.
Orange peel removed by I still have a dust mark showing:
Dust mark removed:
Now the job is to remove all those 1000 grit sanding marks. Here is a panel where I have begun sanding with 1500 grit moving right to left.
Yes, you can use guide coat if needed but generally once you get the hang of it, you can see when the previous grit scratches are removed.
The next step is to use 2000 grit to remove the 1500 grit scratches:
Notice the color of the panel is starting to show and the the surface is of a consistent color and sheen.
This will easily buff out to a nice looking surface.
This is orange peel that is still remaining. Notice how careful you need to be at the edges of the panel. The same is true at body lines.
Orange peel removed by I still have a dust mark showing:
Dust mark removed:
Now the job is to remove all those 1000 grit sanding marks. Here is a panel where I have begun sanding with 1500 grit moving right to left.
Yes, you can use guide coat if needed but generally once you get the hang of it, you can see when the previous grit scratches are removed.
The next step is to use 2000 grit to remove the 1500 grit scratches:
Notice the color of the panel is starting to show and the the surface is of a consistent color and sheen.
This will easily buff out to a nice looking surface.
Last edited:
Whitesnake
Newbie
Def a job to make sure you have plenty of material to work with. Or keep it parked in the garage forever lol.
AAE
Learner
What's your hard block of choice?
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
Someone needs to invent "the best sanding blocks ever."
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Yes, we are waiting for the free trial offer.
That's actually a really good idea! I have just have acrylic pieces but they can be a pain to hold. I'm stealing this!!
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Use some spray adhesive or contact cement. It holds pretty good.
AAE
Learner
Great minds think alike. So do we.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
I can't imagine starting with 600/800, that's so coarse! I try to start UV clear with 1200, but if it's too dry or a bit peely then I start with 1000, which is the most extreme I'll go. I was originally taught to not flatten it completely on the first grit, take about 80% of it out. I use Shine's method of 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000 prior to polishing and compounding; it's not for the faint of heart, but any time I've tried to take shortcuts I failed. By the time I move through all the subsequent grits, it's flat by the end so I can keep as much mil clear as possible.
It's honestly not that bad. I'll usually only go 600 if I laid out 4+ coats and it didnt lay out as planned(hey it happens!), but typically if I am going for a flat finish I always start with 800. But that's the beauty of this, there are so many preferred ways.
Only bad thing about 800 is just making sure all of the scratches are removed when you are at 1000, there is less room for error here when moving on to 1200/1500.
In theory you are still removing the same amount of clear, the 800 just breaks it down faster initially.
Only bad thing about 800 is just making sure all of the scratches are removed when you are at 1000, there is less room for error here when moving on to 1200/1500.
In theory you are still removing the same amount of clear, the 800 just breaks it down faster initially.
Davidgarzon98
New Member
Hello, very interesting comments. I’m on a similar situation. I bought a 1998 with 70k miles which is in great shape, but the bumper needed to be repainted. I did with two layers of urethane and 2k clear coat about 3 weeks ago. Paint looked great but today I buffed and cut it and now looks pretty bad. I dry sanded with 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit sandpaper with an electric sander with an interface pad and then buffed with turtle wax clean cut rubbing compound and then waxed with meguiars ultimate paste wax. I used a random orbital polisher for the last two steps. What did I do wrong? What do I need to do to correct it? Thanks so much!!
Jim C
Oldtimer
your sanding seems ok but after that, nothing is right lol. first thing, take the turtle wax rubbing compound and put that right in the trash can. you need a good compound and polish, a rotary buffer, a wool pad and a black foam pad. you need to get the paint looking how you want it to look without wax. wax doesn't make your paint shine or correct anything. its for protection only.
Davidgarzon98
New Member
Hello, very interesting comments. I’m on a similar situation. I bought a 1998 with 70k miles which is in great shape, but the bumper needed to be repainted. I did with two layers of urethane and 2k clear coat about 3 weeks ago. Paint looked great but today I buffed and cut it and now looks pretty bad. I dry sanded with 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit sandpaper with an electric sander with an interface pad and then buffed with turtle wax clean cut rubbing compound and then waxed with meguiars ultimate paste wax. I used a random orbital polisher for the last two steps. What did I do wrong? What do I need to do to correct it? Thanks so much!!View attachment 29436
Thanks again,
David
Thanks for the response Jim, I appreciate it. Are rotary buffers from harbor freight tools enough for this job? Something like this -> https://www.harborfreight.com/10-am...Ef8eqm9b5stjkNdQOeTDlaQs95Aohv_UaAvB9EALw_wcB
Thanks again,
David
Attachments
Whitesnake
Newbie
Yes what Jim said. Your sanding is ok. You need more aggressive polishing to get your sanding scratches out. You need a good cutting compound. If you don’t have anything already you can buy meguiars m100 compound at harbor freight. You can also get a cheap rotary polisher and a wool pad there. And if you want after the wool you can compound it again with a light cutting foam pad after the wool to refine it some more. Also available at harbor freight. Unless you want to spend some more money on a quart of meguiars m210 finishing polish also available at harbor freight. Just giving you a budget option as everyone usually has a harbor freight close and it doesn’t sound like you do this enough to invest a lot of money into the process.
Davidgarzon98
New Member
Awesome, thanks for the tips here. You’re right, I don’t do this often but may decide to do other panels if I get good results. I’ll stop by HFT tomorrow and will post the final results. Thanks again!