Decklid high in the middle of the front edge vs the front corners, how do I bend it without damaging it?

You said hammer the edge in the text in the picture. Plus you said it in your post. Why would I refer to that in my post above if you didn't? You edited the word hammer to tap. I'm not stupid man.

I did not, are you a drinker, maybe do drugs?
 
If the OP does as you described and screws up the truck lid, then he'll have no known good panel to work from. As far as we know at this point, the trunk lid is an unmolested true as it's going to get from the factory verses a used, or re-popped filler panel that was not install correctly (not disrespecting your work OP)

Common sense says it's better to rework the filler panel between the window and trunk lid again because you can shape it to a known good panel, the trunk lid.
If you had ever done it you would know that what I'm saying will work.

So your solution now is to cut it all out and start again. Don't forget the 1/4 panel because it's low there too.
Just to be clear, I wouldn't hammer the corner up by, hammering at the corner only.

This is how I would approach it.
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Looks like hammer on the edge to me. I don't know if you said "hammer on the edge" literally but I took this post to mean that. You did say hammer on the corner which is an edge. You are being pedantic


I did not, are you a drinker, maybe do drugs?
Have I been insulting to you?
 
I would probably try a combination of 1st try to manipulate the daisy panel and get all I could out of raising, jacking the new metal closer to where it needs to be. 2nd start to try slowly (this could go horribly bad if you don't go slow and pay attention) reshape the lid. As Chris said another set of eyes and hands could really help. Good luck and GO SLOW!
 
So your solution now is to cut it all out and start again. Don't forget the 1/4 panel because it's low there too.
Once again, I never said that. Reading comprehension is not your strong suit today. A few relief cuts and a few taps from a hammer on the filler panel and it's good as new if the OP can dress the welds properly.

At the top of the filler panel where it is low to the trunk lid in the center, he may only need to do as already suggested to stand in the trunk and lift up on the filler panel to make that adjustment. That was a good suggestion.

As with many things, there always a different way to skin a cat. There's your way, my way and their way. Today it became a problem because you don't want to allow someone else's suggestion, and start fabricated untruths and scenarios.
 
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Once again, I never said that. Reading comprehension is not your strong suit today. A few relief cuts and a few taps from a hammer on the filler panel and it's good as new if the OP can dress the welds properly.

At the top of the filler panel where it is low to the truck lid in the center, he may only need to do as already suggested to stand in the trunk and lift up on the filler panel to make that adjustment.

As with many things, there always a different way to skin a cat. There's your way, my way and there way. Today it became a problem because you don't want to allow someone else's suggestion, and start fabricated untruths and scenarios.
I stand by my previous post. I have no problem with others offering advice. But if I disagree with it I will say so. Remember I have been doing this for a living for 30+ years. I know what works and what doesn't. All I'm trying to say. If you give good advice I will say so. If you give shit advice I will call you out for it.
 
One reason why I try to help folks on this forum is because when I was trying to learn all this info was not "out there". It was in a bunch of different peoples heads but nowhere else. All the books on the subject where riddled with errors or outdated. Guys who did it wouldn't share info with you. It was hard to learn. First couple of places I worked at it was more of the same. No one wanting to help you learn. Just a lot of hazing and guys giving you shit.

It wasn't until I went to work at a Shop where there was an old guy who was going to retire in a year who was willing to mentor me that I started learning how to do this work correctly, what worked, what didn't etc. And when I had a little knowledge and started getting cocky, he was there to knock me down a few pegs and remind me that I didn't really know anything yet. That helped me immensely as I kept learning. Lot's of guys over the years just simply stopped learning as they thought they knew it all in some aspect. They never get better. I'm still learning things today. The old guy that mentored me became like a second Dad to me. When he retired he gave me a couple of his tools. When died he left me some of his favorite most cherished tools. That really meant a lot to me.

This forum is such a game changer for folks because the info on here is correct and true. All I'm trying to do is continue that so that folks will have good info to learn from. If I come across as an A-hole it's because I don't like bad info. Or guesses. I like stuff that works. I don;t think someone should post advice if they have not experienced something similar and found a solution. I'm just trying to keep the tradition here going.
 
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I am currently working on a 1966 mustang fastback. Are both sides of the trunk low and how much? Have you tried adjusting the trunk hinges to raise it flush with the quarter? Or maybe raise it enough to split the difference in the trunk center being a little high and a little low at the corners.
 
Typically I like to see these kinds of issues taken care of before welding and priming. If that's the original lid and it fit before, the problem may be the panel that is now welded on and hence very difficult to correct now.
Yes, I definitely missed this prior to welding. Never occurred to me it might not fit there. I spent hours and hours making sure the window fit perfect as obviously you can't correct glass. Don't know how I never looked 12" inches away at the deck lid interface.
 
I am currently working on a 1966 mustang fastback. Are both sides of the trunk low and how much? Have you tried adjusting the trunk hinges to raise it flush with the quarter? Or maybe raise it enough to split the difference in the trunk center being a little high and a little low at the corners.

So I bought the weather strip to see if that pushes the corners up any, and if it will even make contact in the middle where it's high. I plan try Chris's advise, take it off and just grab it and bend it by hand over my knee or some other body part where I can feel whats happening.

I might let my son help with that, he looks like Adonis, lol.
 
Well, if the deck lid is original, and you want to actually bend it, is there a possibility of slicing the inner structure of the deck lid at the front, bending it, then re-weld? It leaves the skin alone. You could be moving into hack territory though if you’re not careful. It’s hard to say without putting my eyes on it in person.
I’ll admit I glossed over much of this post, so if it’s been suggested already, color me lazy.
 
The trunk lid has a crown, why not use a couple of 2x4 and use c claps on each end and slowly try compressing each of the ends.
 
Another idea is to drill out enough spot welds to allow the inner structure to move, and bend only the inner structure, the skin will follow. This would be less hackish.
 
You guys might think I'm crazy, but sometimes I take an "all of the above and then some" approach. Since the deck lid is likely to be a close approximation to the original contour, some Porto Power work to raise the rear of the panel at the center may be indicated. Lay a 4x4 across the floor so you're braced against the frame rails and push up on the panel. This, combined with tweaking the deck lid a little might make the parts move enough to "meet in the middle."
 
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