Delfleet Essential Test Panel - What do you think?

Looks good at first glance but yes I see the peel in the reflections. Did you end up cutting/buffing?

We left it as was because it matched the rest of the truck. :p I actually had sprayed 2 coats of the Delfleet, and two coats of Universal clear, in case I did want to cut any. The clear did appear to help minimize some of the appearance of the orange peel to make it better match the rest of the truck...
 
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Glasurit (TDS is less detailed) only says "A single paint layer is really all you need"
A lost in translation(German) thing. Layer does not mean one coat. It means single stage(one layer) as opposed to a base clear system.

If you already have the paint then I guess it's too late to change. We are all trying to give you advice based on our experience. The one or two coat thing only applies if you want the absolute minimum amount of millage on the panel and you are not going to buff.
One reason I was trying to get you to change is that lines like I recommended are easier to spray especially with a lower end gun like the Astro and will have more gloss. There are also other differences as well. DOI, toner differences etc. Barry could speak to the differences better and put into words the differences better I'm just a Painter/Bodyguy. :) All paint is not equal rest assured.
Example when you cut and buff it, it will not have the DOI of say Glasurit 22 cut and buffed. Maybe @Barry can explain it better.

In the end none of my business but your pics of the frame and other looked so nice it seems a shame to use what you are using.
 
A lost in translation(German) thing. Layer does not mean one coat. It means single stage(one layer) as opposed to a base clear system.
Understood, thanks

If you already have the paint then I guess it's too late to change.

One option is to have a sample of my customized color matched to another system and then use that for the exterior. Interior panels, where they'd get covered in hardura, dash, rubber mats, or scuffed like crazy anyway, could use the Delfleet. I got a quote for a gallon (guessing that much for just exterior) of Motocryl from Chris today and it seemed pretty reasonable.

In the end none of my business but your pics of the frame and other looked so nice it seems a shame to use what you are using.

Definitely don't want to use it if I can't dramatically improve over the first test seen here.
 
at work we just switched to delfeet. have no idea the longevity or any other factors yet but sprays alot like a low solids paint, can get it pretty darn slick. more air preesure. on your test panel
 
at work we just switched to delfeet. have no idea the longevity or any other factors yet but sprays alot like a low solids paint, can get it pretty darn slick. more air preesure. on your test panel

What are you guys painting? Using reducer?
 
2:1 to 1/2 percent
1/2 percent would be expressed as 0.5%, and would be a tiny amount, for example in a RTS quart, 0.5% would be 0.16 oz or about 4.5 grams. So this seems incorrect to me, even strong accelerators are added at higher percentages than this.
 
This remind me, the reducer I have on hand is "very slow". Is it safe to use at lower temps if it's given more time to flash?
 
Practice run #2. Block wet sanded panels with 400. Mistake #1, Delfleet was not cured enough after 36 hours of warm weather to wet or dry sand without clogging paper, but got it done nonetheless. Blew off and tacked with prep towel. Hung in tent to fully dry overnight. Next morning, air temp 77F (Mistake#2, bit too warm, need to start earlier), panel was a probably 80-ish. Gun adjusted to 30 psi, full wide fan, and fluid knob turned two turns in, no reducer.

First coat looked better, but noticed pin holes, and still seemed maybe a bit heavy. Adjusted fluid out another half turn (Mistake #3).

Second coat too light and obviously giving a rough looking texture while spraying. Made two passes trying to salvage. Seems to have settled in, but result would probably have been better if I'd left the fluid at two turns in.

Not sure what caused the pin holes. Maybe wet sanding, blowing off, and tacking with prep towel wasn't sufficient for cleanliness. Maybe too warm. Too inexperienced to know.

Despite a few new mistakes, the texture is somewhat improved and there's no paint collecting at the bottom edges this time.

Already getting prepped for next test.

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The "pinholes" look like fisheyes which is caused by contamination on the surface. Did you wipe them properly with Wax and Grease remover?
 
The "pinholes" look like fisheyes which is caused by contamination on the surface. Did you wipe them properly with Wax and Grease remover?

I considered it but didn't see how wet sanding would introduce any oils. Thought blow off and prep wipe to tack it would be sufficient. Smallest fisheyes I ever saw. Lesson learned.
 
FDG is what we are spraying PPG single stage . I use a Sata 5500 rp with a 1.2 not much peel at all I’ll grab some pics tommorow I spray at 32 psi
 

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FDG is what we are spraying PPG single stage . I use a Sata 5500 rp with a 1.2 not much peel at all I’ll grab some pics tommorow I spray at 32 psi

Ok so you're using Evolution while I'm using Essential.

Found this while trying to lookup the difference between the systems.

I'm a PPG Sales Rep. Essential is a Medium Solids Polyurethane Single Stage spun off of the awesome but brutally expensive PPG Concept Single Stage Urethane system. Imron is an ultra high solids polyurethane for fleet use, and PPG's equivalent to that is Delfleet Evolution. Essential is a much more affordable and easy to use single stage product with some of the polyurethane characteristics (high gloss, chip resistance) but with the sprayability and buffability of a standard urethane. In short it's badass, and with the different activated reducers you have a ton of flexibility in a variety of conditions. Great for a solid color paint job on a restoration. Sorry for the windy answer, I'm a paint geek .....

Sounds like the version you're spraying would be even more challenging to use.

Edit: Just checked the TDS and FDG is mixed standard as a color, hardener, and a slow/med/fast "thinner", with an optional fast/med dry "additive". ESSS is mixed in different ratios as a color, slow/med hardener, and slow/med/fast "activator" with optional urethane reducer.
 
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Next test you do, reduce it the max amount, up the air pressure more. Try 5-8 psi to start. Cut your fluid back some, it's still looks heavy. Tighten the overlap to 75%. Speed up your passes.
 
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