dent pulling

B

BUSHMASTER

im going to be buying a used truck, there is a 2'x2' dent in the bedside, its not on a body line or creased but it is pretty deep,
if i use a stud gun is it better starting at the edge of the dent and working in to the deep spot
or starting at the deep spot and working out
 
when using a stud gun i always like to start from the deep end and work my way out. it will be less work for you as you pull the deep end it will pull out the surrounding areas so you would not need to pull them
 
If I can get to the backside of a dent I usually will try to push as much out as i can. most bed sides have pretty good access to the backside. a porto-power or even just your hand can push alot out when its in the middle of the panel. then you can use the stud gun for any remaining smaller dents. a t-handle puller works real good. on a slide hammer style stud puller dont use the slide unless you have to to make the metal move. when using the slide its real easy to stretch the metal around everywhere you pull on a pin.
 
I would do my best to push or pry the dent out...spend some time analyzing the dent ,it will save you alot of time later. there is direct damage and indirect damage. find the source and direction of impact and start there. dents are like a boat wake (if that makes any sense) . usually there are only a few key spots that are keeping the metal from returning back to where they belong.(dent a tin can ,and if you squeeze it just right the dent will pop right out ...same principle) knowledge and patience....take your time and you will be rewarded.
 
thanks guys,
i cant access the back side, so it has to be pulled
 
I have a slide hammer for my stud welder, and often I will attach it and just pull hard on it instead of using it as a hammer. Pulling on it while tapping on high spots will also raise the area where the stud is welded without as much distortion. Slide hammering makes "volcanoes" that have to be shrunk down. The nicest thing about the stud welder is it also shrinks the metal in the small heat affected zone. Shrinking tips are made for the stud welder which can be very helpful during the repair process.
 
I once used a cheap Harbor Freight suction cup to pull most of a dent out of the wife's van. Later, a PDR guy fixed it for real. The PDR guy could see where the suction cup left behind circles.
 
Makes sense, because the force of the suction cup would be pulling on indirect damage. Theory says that if you could pull or push on just the direct damage, then the rest of the indirect damage would go back to its original shape.

For the op, since the damage is not creased or on the body line, then a suction cup might do a lot of good in getting the damage closer to where you want.IMO
 
They make inflatable bags you can position behind the dent and pump up withe a squeeze pump, I know a few techs that are using them to rough out damage like that, used in combination with a wood slapper around the perimeter you can move a lot of area fast. A curved rear leg off on an old oak chair works really well. And the wood doesn't make more damage.
 
Does anyone use one of the pullers that the electrode is welded directly onto the panel? I have the opportunity to get one like the Shark 2 from Dent Fix. I have a stud welder now.

So, it's true that a non-metal tool is better than a hammer to relieve pressure. Good to know.
 
A dent should be removed by "reversing" the way it was made in the first place.
Start on the outskirts and work your way in.
If you pull the center you'll just stretch the metal even more.
 
I have tried to avoid dents for a long time. Does anyone use something like the Shark2?
 
Jc about time someone said not to start in the deepest spot lol, AAE I use a Maxi-dent and am only assuming its like the shark2 but I love it, just weld the tip to panel pill dent, twist tip off, reweld and continue on its a quick little machine
 
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