Dent repair

MX442

MX442

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On restoration work, is there a point where you can not work a dent and have to use filler? If I was paying for a restoration, how much filler would you end up using on an area like this? The fender lip still needs to be moved out about 1/8" inch in the area of the red line. The crease in the valley is too hard to back up with any kind of dolly. There is only about 1/4" - 1/2" of clearance to get anything between the quarter panel and the wheel well to push the crease. The other problem I have is trying to get the contour of this valley. Last, the oil can issue... I think that if I can get that fender lip corrected, it should pull out the oil-can. Advice?



 
Is the lip moving with the oil canning metal?
You will need to shrink the metal in the center of that dent to remove the oil can effect. This may also bring your lip into place.
 
Well, when the lip is in it's usually because it was hit there. Those areas stick out the furthest and are most susceptible to damage. We have a specialized pulling tool to draw out quarter wheel openings on the frame machine. The strength of the wheelhouse makes that area too strong to repair any other way, especially on an older vehicle.

Correcting the shape of the wheel opening sometimes changes the game for the surrounding metal. It should be done before any further repair.
 
Crash, I'm only attacking the lip right now. The impact was on the fender flare. I think it is causing the "buckle" above. It looks like the valley separating the flare from the bulbous part of the quarter folded (creased) inward from the impact. I'm struggling to correct the shape of that valley. Would it be a bad idea to tack weld a sheet metal pull tab in the crease? I don't have a stud welder.
 
It's too hard to tell from the pictures, but it's important to get a sense of how the damage was created in the first place, and to try and reverse it. I would not likely weld a tab in that area, but more likely weld one on the wheel opening lip, and pull out and forward with constant pressure (like with a come-along) and then try to work the low area out with tools while under pressure.

Of course, all this depends on how the damage was created in the first place. I'm going on the assumption it was caused from the wheel opening lip being pushed in and back.
 
It looks to me like crash is on the right track, and the wheel opening lip is probably pushed in more than you think. If the other side is good then use it for comparison, or go to car shows and find another car like yours to look at. Its important to get all the body lines straight before doing any shrinking. Oil cans can be caused by displaced metal in addition to stretched metal.

It helps a lot to read the damage before doing any metal work or sanding, it can save a lot of work.
 
You could weld a three inch tab on the edge of the flare and pull that out with a come-a-long, slide hammer, or pogo stick. Just tack the tab so you can easily cut the tack welds and remove it after it's pulled out. Once the flare/lip is out then the rest of the damage will repair easily and probably won't require any shrinking unless you get carried away with hammer on dolly work. Stretch is usually only found in the point of contact area.
 
Thanks! All of you guys were right on. Without a frame rack, I couldn't figure out how to pull down and forward with a come-along. I wrapped the end of a 3' pry bar to hook the lip. With a combo of pulling and tapping with a heavy hammer, it pulled down enough. I hit the crease (impact dent) with the torch in 2 tiny spots and that shrunk the crease. Then pushing the oil can from the back with a dolly, a few hits with a slapper and the whole thing went "pop" and reformed to where it should be. It is still slightly low and needs a little more massaging. Then I'll finish working out the style line and the lower contour... It's nice to see progress.

What are some techniques you guys use to work areas that you can't back up with a dolly? For example when you can't reach and hammer at the same time, or when there is no clearance for a dolly?
 
I have a fairly heavy centerlink from a Dodge van that was heated up with a rosebud and formed on the end a bit like a curved flat chisel. It can sometimes get into areas like that, though often a helper is required. Some guys would just temporarily remove a portion of the outer wheelhouse, lol.
 
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