Dents where Hood Skin Glue Tabs to Inner Structure

J

JoeMan

We're redoing a '67 Mustang right now and are fighting the areas where the outer skin of both the hood and the decklid are "glue tabbed" to the inner structure... Has anyone else ever battled this? We have cut the tabs with a long fillet knife, so they are no longer "attached", but I can peg exactly where each glue dot is by a dent... Is this an expansion/contraction thing?! What do I do???:nightmare:
 
Good luck with this one.. I've fought this one a few times,, I have cut the glue with a knife a few times like you described,, It usually does help a little.
 
Is there still original paint on the interior? If paint is not original on interior it may be an outward expansion issue from media blasting the inside... Bracing hides and protects the exterior skin from the peening effects, holes in the brace don't and that's the part that stretches and expands outward......which may make the glued sections look "dented" in.....
 
The outside was stripped, body worked and primed. Blocked out like all stars. Then we flipped and stripped the undersides with 80g d/a (hindsight-probably should have done underside before top side bodywork). Felt the "dents". Cut the glue tabs. Better. Blocked with 120 til we found our highs, then glazed the whole thing and re-primed. Again, blocked out great. Paint. Dents. Buffing heat seems to dramatize the dents. What is the cure? As much as I don't want to, I would go back to ground zero if I knew it would remedy the problem. With the tabs cut, glazing, re-priming and they still come back, I fear complete redo would be in vain. I have a PDR guy that just as well be Merlin the Magician... Try pushing the dents out via glue remnants on skin??? Underside stripping post bodywork ultimately bite us??? How do we get this lazer straight again and for good???????????
 
When you block, more material is removed from areas which are well supported. The "dents" are areas where more material has been consistently sanded away. The only way to remedy this is by using much less pressure when sanding, just gliding the block across the hood. Fresh, sharp sandpaper and lots of time and patience are required.
 
I've had hoods laser straight and seen the glue spots show during buffing.... If you do the colorsanding to 5000 grit and go slow with the buffer speed so heat doesn't buildup you can avoid it. Like Crash said excessive pressure during the blocking stage will also cause fits but a wipe down with solvent wax and grease remover or mineral spirits will help you see any irregularities before you apply paint. Piano wire works good for cutting glue spots loose even in areas you can't see-bend the wire and fish it around the glue spot then grab both ends and saw your way through.
 
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