Die back maybe?

M

MKH

Promoted Users
I cleared my car on Thursday. ( universal clear) and today noticed it’s not quite as glossy as it was Thursday. So I am guessing it’s probably dieback. Question is if I sit it in the sun for a week or so and then do my cut and buff will the gloss come back? Or another way of asking is can dieback be corrected with a cut and buff.
Mike
 
Yes, because of the delay in the time it took to die back, we know excess solvents are from one of two things.

If the next day clear applied to the base too soon.
If 2nd day or longer, solvents were trapped in the first coat of base.
Three hours in the sun min will draw out, then buff.
 
Barry said:
Yes, because of the delay in the time it took to die back, we know excess solvents are from one of two things.

If the next day clear applied to the base too soon.
If 2nd day or longer, solvents were trapped in the first coat of base.
Three hours in the sun min will draw out, then buff.
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Thanks Barry, I do think I applied my base to thick as I had some issues with striping and for some reason verticals stripes but I got it all corrected by the third coat. I used 2 gallons of RTS motobase on the car. Sprayed the complete car. (Datsun 280z). The third coat of clear flowed out amazing. I can’t see any orange peel anywhere except for some on the hood which is really the only die back issue. I had planned to cut and buff the entire car but it’s so slick I think just a Denib will look perfect. Well except for the hood which I will cut and buff. I have never sprayed clear that looks this good straight out of the gun.. amazing stuff!
Mike
 
MKH said:
Thanks Barry, I do think I applied my base to thick as I had some issues with striping and for some reason verticals stripes but I got it all corrected by the third coat. I used 2 gallons of RTS motobase on the car. Sprayed the complete car. (Datsun 280z). The third coat of clear flowed out amazing. I can’t see any orange peel anywhere except for some on the hood which is really the only die back issue. I had planned to cut and buff the entire car but it’s so slick I think just a Denib will look perfect. Well except for the hood which I will cut and buff. I have never sprayed clear that looks this good straight out of the gun.. amazing stuff!
Mike
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Hey Mike,
Can you share your gun you used and the settings for your Universal clear?..Thanks
 
hapcj7 said:
Hey Mike,
Can you share your gun you used and the settings for your Universal clear?..Thanks
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Sure, I was using a Devilbiss flg. 29psi. It’s only a $250 dollar gun. Shop temp 75 degrees. I sprayed each coat wet and made sure it was filling in and flowing out. Honestly I think the paint gods were just in my favor and I got very lucky it turned out so smooth.
Mike
 
MKH said:
I used 2 gallons of RTS motobase on the car. Sprayed the complete car. (Datsun 280z).
Click to expand...

2 Gallons on a 280Z? wow, that's unbelievable!!!!
I just painted an entire side of a 300Z and used less than 1 quart.
 
crashtech said:
2 gallons of base in 3 coats, is that right?
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Well I bought 1 gallon of paint but it mixed 1-1 so I had 2 gallons total to spray. It covered in 2 but I wanted to make sure so I sprayed a 3rd coat. I’m guessing that was way to heavy. Correct? I did paint the entire car. Under hood, under hatch, door jambs, inside doors, Fiberglas front fascia, headlight buckets, wiper cowl etc. The color was a light blue metallic. Car was taken completely apart so I painted each piece separate but all at the same time. I’m sure I lost a lot of paint by doing it in pieces as I made sure to carry my spray pattern off each panel before I let off the trigger. And pulled the trigger before I got to each panel on every pass.
Mike
 
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Barry said:
Yes, because of the delay in the time it took to die back, we know excess solvents are from one of two things.

If the next day clear applied to the base too soon.
If 2nd day or longer, solvents were trapped in the first coat of base.
Three hours in the sun min will draw out, then buff.
Click to expand...
Wow. Learned something new today.
Thanks Barry.
 
Fwiw I bought 2 gallons of base and 1 gallon of reducer for 3 sprayable gallons inside and out on my 60. Wheel wells, floors and trunk in tinted raptor, dash. Column, the whole job in and out.
 
MKH said:
Well I bought 1 gallon of paint but it mixed 1-1 so I had 2 gallons total to spray. It covered in 2 but I wanted to make sure so I sprayed a 3rd coat. I’m guessing that was way to heavy. Correct? I did paint the entire car. Under hood, under hatch, door jambs, inside doors, Fiberglas front fascia, headlight buckets, wiper cowl etc. The color was a light blue metallic. Car was taken completely apart so I painted each piece separate but all at the same time. I’m sure I lost a lot of paint by doing it in pieces as I made sure to carry my spray pattern off each panel before I let off the trigger. And pulled the trigger before I got to each panel on every pass.
Mike
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It's all good. I think if it's gone on a bit heavy, it's a good idea to extend the flash time is all. In my memory an old Z doesn't seem big enough to two gallons of base, but then again that was a long time ago since I painted one!
 
wow a small car like that and 2 sprayable gallons of base seems like a tremendous amount of paint and to have put that on in just 3 coats. i remember doing a 61 vette which is similar size with 1.5 sprayable quarts. of course under all the lids were black but still. either it was sprayed really heavy which i would think with that amount would be dripping on the floor OR your spraying from really far away or too high psi and its all going in the air. in both cases you would lose gloss. one way from trapped solvents in the base or if misting it then you have a very textured base surface and now the clear is shrinking into that. not a big deal either way and everything seems like it all worked out. like recommended, let sit in the sun for a week or two then sand and buff. you'll be fine
 
im just sittin here learning, hoping i can paint a full size pick up with 2 gal epoxy and 2 gallons of ss................
 
dhutton01 said:
Careful now, SS is not base…. Are you talking about 2 gallons ready to spray?
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im not sure? they say not to reduce it.
i will take all the advice i can get lol. not painting the bed inside if that matters.
and i still think im best to use black epoxy under it.
 
Treeslayer said:
im not sure? they say not to reduce it.
i will take all the advice i can get lol. not painting the bed inside if that matters.
and i still think im best to use black epoxy under it.
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Yes likely no reducer but there is activator. The inside of the bed will use a lot of paint
 
dhutton01 said:
Yes likely no reducer but there is activator. The inside of the bed will use a lot of paint
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yeah, i told my son he can do the roll on liner later if he wants to. im just gonna make her black like it was before some one put ugly light blue paint over their crappy dent fix work..........i mean bondo work.
 
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