My thinking using the spi activator then it crosslinks with the spi clear that way. Mix it the normal ratio then add an ounce of clear activator per quart? I’d that correct?The clear activator will work fine as well as our reducer (actually will make it a better product)
Your idea of letting it set over night is a very well advised idea.
I sprayed Dimension a few years ago. Blue metallic. I called the tech line and they said it will probably start to chalk up in 6 months to a year. So, I put Euro over it and it still looks good today.
My thinking using the spi activator then it crosslinks with the spi clear that way. Mix it the normal ratio then add an ounce of clear activator per quart? I’d that correct?
I’ll be using a solid color I wonder what makes the rhf activator so different than the spi reducer and clear activatorBe very careful if the Dimension is a metallic. It can move around when you clear it and mottle horribly. I used to put a couple thin coats of reduced and activated binder on top of the metallic, but this is a sucky solution. Better to use Nason if you are using a cheap metallic, it doesn't move around.
Interesting did it just not have good metallic control. When you cleared it? It would mottleIt's been a long time since I used Dimension, but I believe that RHF used to be optional, not mandatory. It's supposedly not optional in Ultra 7000.
Since you are using a solid color, there is no worry at all about metallic control. Just use SPI reducer and 5% activator, unless you want to spend the extra money. Using RHF reducer gives you about 3% activator or so, if memory serves. S-W best practices still had us adding activator on top of RHF when painting plastic parts, for example, so the amount of iso in RHF is about half the maximum desirable.