I know I have to tape the sharp edges but need to find some good msg threads explaining the specifics. i.e. If I don’t carefully sand some of that texture down at the edge then is it blended in at the last stage with the buffing pad and compound? I always heard stay away from the edges and tape them when buffing so never understood how those spots blend in to the super smoothed adjacent surfaces…
Disappointing results with my finish coat
- Thread starter MAKZ06
- Start date
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Once I pull the tape I blend it with Tolecut squares on a Tolecut block. You can’t blend it just buffing it. Always buff off the edge.
Keep in mind my backyard hack status.
Don
Tolecut SP9738 Eagle Abrasives Tolecut 8 Cut Starter Kit For Sanding Small Areas | eBay
1 sheet each of Tolecut 8-cut sheet K800 (191-1527), K1200 (191-1526), K1500 (191-1523), K2000 (191-1522), K2500 (191-1528), K3000 (191-1521). No spot repair is out of reach with Toleblock S or QS with the full range of 8 cut sheets.
www.ebay.com
Keep in mind my backyard hack status.
Don
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Lizer
Mad Scientist
I wouldn't be disappointed with that, it's expected, especially for us hobbyists. Sometimes I'm painting something in my booth and it's so hot I'm trying to get in and out and I'm not spending a lot of time trying to get it dialed in just perfectly. In my head I'm saying, 'I'll have to fix this one later.'
If you do have to buff an edge you need the buffer to rotate OFF the edge and not back onto it. So you hold the buffer at an angle so the buffing pad is spinning off the edge, but the opposite end of the buffing pad (that is spinning back ONTO the panel) is up in the air and not buffing back onto the panel, that will tear through an edge real fast.
Having to put up with a little peel in certain spots near edges and what not is a lot better than burning through the paint. And remember whatever you sand has to be buffed, so don't get greedy with trying to get EVERYTHING.
If you do have to buff an edge you need the buffer to rotate OFF the edge and not back onto it. So you hold the buffer at an angle so the buffing pad is spinning off the edge, but the opposite end of the buffing pad (that is spinning back ONTO the panel) is up in the air and not buffing back onto the panel, that will tear through an edge real fast.
Having to put up with a little peel in certain spots near edges and what not is a lot better than burning through the paint. And remember whatever you sand has to be buffed, so don't get greedy with trying to get EVERYTHING.
I know I have to tape the sharp edges but need to find some good msg threads explaining the specifics. i.e. If I don’t carefully sand some of that texture down at the edge then is it blended in at the last stage with the buffing pad and compound? I always heard stay away from the edges and tape them when buffing so never understood how those spots blend in to the super smoothed adjacent surfaces…
Not a hack from some of the pics I’ve seen….Once I pull the tape I blend it with Tolecut squares on a Tolecut block. You can’t blend it just buffing it. Always buff off the edge.
Tolecut SP9738 Eagle Abrasives Tolecut 8 Cut Starter Kit For Sanding Small Areas | eBay
1 sheet each of Tolecut 8-cut sheet K800 (191-1527), K1200 (191-1526), K1500 (191-1523), K2000 (191-1522), K2500 (191-1528), K3000 (191-1521). No spot repair is out of reach with Toleblock S or QS with the full range of 8 cut sheets.www.ebay.com
Keep in mind my backyard hack status.
Don
thanks, I figured it had to be sanded carefully. I have one of the Tolecture kits I got previously to use with the dust nibs.
Thanks. I’ve read that about the buffer before. Using one of those for the grist time scares me more than any of the sanding. Still unsure about hand sanding vs using my DA. I keep going back and forth on that…
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
IMO it takes a very experienced hand to get the first cut flat with a DA.
I would block it, no question.
PSA roll paper is available in the grits you need (600 - 1000)
Thanks. What manufacturer’s paper do you like?
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
3M, Norton, Mirka and Sunmight are all good in my opinion.
Also a huge fan of the Eagle stuff, but it doesn't come in big enough sheets for blocking, just for their hand pads and 4 inch block.
In a pinch I'll use Dura Gold just because it is readily available on Amazon in any grit needed.
If you haven't seen the other thread, I launched a line of sanding blocks that have a polycarbonate base and customer reviews are really good.
Not trying to pitch them to you, just an FYI. www.blackdiamondblocks.com
Lizer
Mad Scientist
In my opinion, I would not recommend for a first timer, or somebody new to use a hard block for leveling clear. I’d use a soft pad every step. If you assume the body work isn’t perfectly flat and there might be a high spot here and there, you’ll burn through the clear real quick. Therefore I think it’s a safer option to use something that’s more forgiving for something that could be less than perfect.
Thanks. I’ve followed your sanding block thread. Looks like a great product. I’ve got a lot of blocks including one of the 30” AFS.
Have been trying to decide on which specific abrasive sheets. Kovax, Sumlight, Unigrit, etc. Can’t make up my mind which way to go. after talking myself out of using my Dynabrade DA. None of the sheets seem to be in sizes that fit the standard width blocks I have, even cut in halfs or thirds. One of them is made to fold over a pad but I don’t like the feel of that and want something firmly attached that cant move around.
the last roll of 600 I got was the DutaGold. As were several rolls of 80 and 180. Not a great product compared to others I’ve used. Doesn’t last and loads-up fast. Was the only stuff I found in a roll for the 600 though…
This is a single-stage, not clear. Although I guess it’s basically the same. I used a hard 5” block on the flats when I was flattening the first 3 coats with the 600 grit. Used the 1/4-1/2” pads for the curves and convex ares, etc. Already purchased soft interface pads for my DA when I was thinking I would be using it for the upcoming cutting sessions.
Hard to know what I’m doing right and what I’m doing wrong. I appreciate the advice.
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
If you flattened the first three coats with 600 I suggest you start at 1000. If you just want to remove peel and trash a hard block is not needed as noted by Lizer. I would try a soft block on one easy panel and see how it looks.
So many ways to approach this, at some point you just have to wade in…
A 30” AFS!
Don
So many ways to approach this, at some point you just have to wade in…
A 30” AFS!
Don
MJM
Promoted Users
Hopefully you learned more about cutting and buffing than the applied paint surface. Those that know they will be cutting and buffing don't mind a texture orange peel surface since it usually provides more material for leveling.
If you weren't looking to cut and buff and just wanted a sprayed finish, you nailed it.
No, absolutely was a very informative video. I had just began watching it when I made the post because I was surprised by the amount of peel he was dealing with.
I did not realize that the pros who knew they were going to be cutting and buffing for that mirror finish would not mind having the peel as a starting point.
i always planned on and knew I would be doing almost as much sanding after the paint as I did before.
The buffing part scares me more than the cutting/sanding…. i had originally thought I was going to be able to use my Porter Cable RO buffer /polisher, but from what I’ve seen hereig won’t have the power I need for buffing and ill need to get a new rotary machine.
MJM
Promoted Users
I'm assuming everyone who sprays is looking for no orange peel, dust nibs, flat finish mirror application. At least that's what we strive for. Professionals achieve this more consistently than the beginner painter. Which means they have less work to do to make the paint job look good.
Over the last two years on SPI website, there has been countless posts from beginners having trouble spraying epoxy without getting orange peel, craters etc. imho, epoxy is the hardest to lay down perfect compared to sealer, base coat or clear coat. Once I mastered laying down epoxy, everything sprayed after was a piece of cake.
Learning how to spray epoxy is an excellent training aid to learn proper technics. It took me almost a year to understand the process. One of the biggest things I learn was there is always a way to fix a mistake for a sprayed surface. Orange peel, dust nibs and what ever else is on the painted surface is fixable, if there is enough material on the surface to use.
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Cut & buff saved my clear and while not perfect, everyone that sees it says it looks great. Easy to see all the imperfections as the painter with your nose 6" from the surface. AND with bc/cc if you decide, you can always 800 grit and put more SPI clear on (which I did). I would hope that you could do that too with single stage.
I now have a new found appreciation of painters that can lay down the final coat slick, supermen in my book!
I now have a new found appreciation of painters that can lay down the final coat slick, supermen in my book!
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