Do I really need 2K ?

K

krull57

First time paint job here and using all SPI products. This is where I am at. I initially replaced the quarter panels with new metal on my 57 chevy. After I worked the weld seam, I re-primed everything and checked it with a straight edge. Saw some low spots and waves from both the heat from the welds/grinding and also from the panel just not being perfect to begin with.

So I filled some bondo and re-primed again. Not liking the overall straightness of the panel, I started using a shrinking disc on the high spots. After shrinking each small area I would sand and re-prime, and with the extra primer left over, I kept shooting over the other areas that I was calling good enough.

Now I am finding most of the bondo is sanded out and the panel is looking like a mirror when I wet it down. I even used some 600 grit on it to get it closer to a pre-sealer state just to get a better look at it. From my eye, it is looking fantastic.

So the Question: Should I still shoot the regular 2K to smooth more? I expect that most, if not all of it, will be sanded off. I just don't want to get into the base/clearcoat step and have any surprises.

I pretty much know I will not need the slick sand I bought.

Thanks
 
krull57;22136 said:
So the Question: Should I still shoot the regular 2K to smooth more?
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From what you describe, no. but you'll need enough epoxy for a 1:1:1 seal coat since it sounds like you will be shooting over well-cured epoxy? I assume that is what you have been using. It's much better to shoot base over a fresh application (less than 7 days old) of epoxy.
 
thanks for the reply crash. Yes I have been using the SPI epoxy primer.
two more Q's:

If I shoot a reduced coat of epoxy for a seal coat, will it be shiny enough to judge if I am done and ready for base?

and,

If I do see a wave or scratch, can I just scotch brite the seal coat and do one more round of fix and prime on the spot, then reshoot a little seal coat on the fixed spot, or will I have to reshoot a seal coat on the entire panel?
 
krull57;22136 said:
From my eye, it is looking fantastic.
I just don't want to get into the base/clearcoat step and have any surprises.
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Guide coat will tell you what you want to know.
 
krull57;22149 said:
thanks for the reply crash. Yes I have been using the SPI epoxy primer.
two more Q's:

If I shoot a reduced coat of epoxy for a seal coat, will it be shiny enough to judge if I am done and ready for base?
Click to expand...
Not really, not at 1:1:1.

If I do see a wave or scratch, can I just scotch brite the seal coat and do one more round of fix and prime on the spot, then reshoot a little seal coat on the fixed spot, or will I have to reshoot a seal coat on the entire panel?
Click to expand...
If you see a spot that needs repair, spot prime with unreduced epoxy, then wet sand it once it is dry, usually around 12 hours. Make sure any texture you have created around the edges of the repair is smoothed out also. If you have broken through to the underlying epoxy, you may wish to seal coat the area, but this can introduce problems with metallic colors because sealer spray edges can become visible as shadows in the finish.

It's much better to make sure you have the prep right before sealer. All you should have to deal with in sealer is dust nibs.
 
When reduced epoxy looses most of its gloss. If you have epoxy in another color you could spray a thin coat of that on and see how it sands off. Dont trust water it has too much surface tension.
 
Get the blocking done then wipe the panel down the mineral spirits to check the straightness-if it looks good you're ready for sealer and paint!
 
thanks Bob, WOW does mineral spirits really make the panel defects pop. I do have a question about mineral spirits.

Since it feels a little like something is in it to keep it wet, is it really safe to wipe down the primer with? will it effect the surface in any way?
 
It's just a really slow drying mild solvent. You should wait a good long while between the application of mineral spirits and applying any paint coating, to allow the mineral spirits time to evaporate.
 
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