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dustless blasting

#2
if I where to use dustless blasting does the stop rust chemical have an effect on epoxy primer?
I used to own a dust less blaster did prob 6 cars washed them off with solution with no problem all the hold tite does is remove (neutralize) salt which is what causes rust from the water I would still pre clean exterior surfaces but on interior floor pans etc I blew off and epoxied and I checked adhesion and it was fine
 

jlcustomz

evil painter
#3
I think biggest issue I heard of so far is warping, which is user error. Also a mess to clean out areas such as trunks that may fill with wet muck. One person here did have some pitts that were rusting after . Hitting with a soft rotary wire brush helped that problem.
 
#5
I used to own a dust less blaster did prob 6 cars washed them off with solution with no problem all the hold tite does is remove (neutralize) salt which is what causes rust from the water I would still pre clean exterior surfaces but on interior floor pans etc I blew off and epoxied and I checked adhesion and it was fine
Did you have a problem with packing media in the seams inside the car, making it difficult to remove?
 
#6
I used to own a dust less blaster did prob 6 cars washed them off with solution with no problem all the hold tite does is remove (neutralize) salt which is what causes rust from the water I would still pre clean exterior surfaces but on interior floor pans etc I blew off and epoxied and I checked adhesion and it was fine
Why did you get rid off the blaster? Do you not recommend purchasing one?
 
#8
using water will not prevent warping the metal . period.
yes, the water does one thing only and that is control the dust. sheet metal doesn't warp from heat. it warps from the media stretching the panel. its like 1000's of little body hammers beating the metal. I had someone come out and blast something for me with a dustless system. what a mess. there is really no reason to go the wet route unless your blasting a car in a neighborhood and the dust will cause issues.
 
#10
Like Jim and shine said warping metal with a blaster has nothing to do with heat it has everything to do with the operator they do a good job of selling them on the heat tho I do think they did a quicker job with the water but oh man what a mess I'd rather have dust than mud so I guess I'm saying no I wouldn't buy one unless you are in an area where dust matters
 
#11
you judge media by the MOH scale nothing else. makes no difference how it is delivered. air pressure is all that will effect it. even soda has a 2.5 moh. shatter is all that keeps it from warping metal. but dont believe for a min it wont harm fiberglass.
 
#12
I just recently did this on my doors, hood, trunk lid, and front upper and lower valances. Here's my take on it.

1. so much better than sanding, stripping, and other blasting tools.
2. definitely use there hold tite, its a water based anti-rust thats good for about a week. I called SPI and they said to hit the metal with 80 grit to knock it down a bit before prepping for epoxy primer.
I blasted, coated with hold tite, brought home panels, prepped each panel by blowing the hell out of it with air, then hitting with 80 grit DA, followed by brown scotch bright pads, hit with air again,, followed by tack clothes, followed by oil and grease remover.
3. sprayed epoxy primer

couple of things, it does pack and dry media in crevices. You absolutely need to blow the media out of any crevices. I did my doors and that media was packed inside the door in all kinds of places. I spent a lot of time breaking it loose and blowing the media out. Next time I wont let it get into the nooks and crannies. If your not paying attention it will go into places your dont want it.

But having used other methods...sanding, stripping, and other blasting, this is by far the best way to take a car down cost and time wise. 20190106_115001.jpg 20181229_161406.jpg 20181229_143623.jpg 20181229_122800.jpg 20181229_103803.jpg
 
#14
also...it never even tried to warp panels. The metal was either thick enough to where it wasnt a factor, or it was because I had the pressure way down. I had the pressure set to 90 psi, the machine can go to 150 I believe. So yea if you have the machine at max pressure, you need to hold nozzle further back. They had some scrap metal there, and I practiced using the nozzle and setting pressure.
 
#16
if its old sheet metal, and the pressure is turned down, and depending on the tip used, I would not worry about warping. I intentionally tried to warp a piece of test metal, and with the pressure i had it set at, with the span tip i was using, there was no way it was going to warp that metal. Now they have a tip that increases the pressure to a small area, that might warp, but i didnt use that tip.
 
#18
Last I checked all body paint and rust stripping styles are a mess afterwards to clean up? Maybe I'm missing something that there is a system that sucks up the debri as you strip? lol

anyways my personal experience
The wet strip has been pricey when I checked twice, and as above mentioned the guy wasn't much on wanting to doing it?

So, I'm like hell I'll purchase my own personal use one thats smaller, I got excited about doing this, was pretty fired up on this, I got a quote on the dustless machinery and laughed so hard, threw the quote in the trash. Wow, I could purchase a paint booth plus build and enclose a car port for media blasting for what they asked for their machines.. It sucked and I hate when things suck

So far it's been to expensive to try it and the entrepreneurs' don't seem to want the business from my experience. I don't know how well this design would work becuse I'v tried to pay someone or buy it to see and The big man upstairs keeps it from happening and I'll have to expect he is saving me financially from something disatrius?
 
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