With paint prices thru the roof, I went looking for a substitute manufacturer due to not wanting to pay $2200 for a gallon of Dynamont bc in the color I want. Looking around, I found an Eastwood BC color that is very similar to what I am looking for. My question is, has anyone had experience with the Eastwood paints ? I would like to use SPI clear over it. This is not a show car, but will be the best I can make it and will be street driven and not a garage queen. Thanks.
Eastwood base coat color under SPI clear
- Thread starter Grumpy
- Start date
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Forget that stuff and try either Motobase or Wanda. Wanda is available through most AkzoNobel distributors. Motobase is available through various Distributors including forum member @Chad.S. He will ship it to your door. Motobase is outstanding stuff, as is Wanda. Both are much cheaper than premium lines like Diamont, or Glasurit. I really like Motobase and have found it to be very high quality. Coverage which is one of the main indicators of quality in a basecoat is outstanding. As good as anything really. Low end base you are going to use more of it because coverage will not be as good so in reality it is not as cheap as it seems. Plus the toners and metallic will be less vibrant, lower quality and there will not be the UV protection in the base as there is in better quality bases.
Eastwood is rebadged private label stuff. Going to be very low end. Eastwood compared to Diamont is like comparing a Yugo to a Mercedes.
Eastwood is rebadged private label stuff. Going to be very low end. Eastwood compared to Diamont is like comparing a Yugo to a Mercedes.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Link to Chad's business.
www.autorodtechnologies.com
Chad's paint and Audio — Auto Rod Technologies
Southwest Michigans premier paint supply store.
www.autorodtechnologies.com
Please don't take this the wrong way BUT I just do not understand this. A person will do extreme amount of hard work on their restoration, blocking,panels to perfection on and on.................then buy the junk low line paint system they can find . It just bugs me . After all the paint finish is what we all see when completed. .
RosharonRooster
Promoted Users
i agree with toro. Ive lived thru this. couple hundred hours of blocking a car, then you go to spray and use cheap stuff. end up with poor coverage resulting in buying more paint which ends up not being cheaper. that or the metallics are blotchy, streak, just crap. similar to house paint. your project you can do what you want, but when talking 50 to whatever thousands of dollars you put in your project there are better options than eastwood paints that dont cost that much more. i used some wanda on my car and i used lesonal on the majority of it. you can plan your paint job out maybe you dont need the sikkens on the underside of the hood, thats were the wanda comes in, dash, nick nacks etc dont necessarily need 500 a gallon basecoat, but a long hood and trunk, something front and center when you walk up to the car, you want it to be right. doesnt matter if its a driver or garage anchor.
RosharonRooster
Promoted Users
this is what i meant to say lol
Jim C
Oldtimer
i had a diamont system in my shop for over 8 years then switched to wanda. i have had that for about 8 years now. i used spi reducer in both paints. when i switched i honestly could not tell the difference between wanda and the diamont. coverage was the same, adhesion is better and its 1/3 the cost. i have not used the motobase but many forum members here have and say it is really good. if it was crap chad would not sell it either. either one of those will be the ticket
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Treeslayer
Mike
i believe eastwood gets that from kirker? bottom of the barrel stuff. listen to these guys, they know whats up. from my own experience, its only a little more to spend on much better paint. better product also sprays much much better.
Whitesnake
Newbie
I’ll repeat what everyone else said.
Yes, I have done what you are proposing to do with your car you. I used 4 coats of a "4:1 Production clear" over one their medium red bases very close to the OEM color. Coverage was adequate with my choice of HVLP over a tinted sealer. It was fine for my application and my environment/climate and what I expected out of it. Exposure was close to 450 inches of rain on it, several 1/4" ice storm coatings, 9F to121.6F. I haven't parked a car in garage in 43 years and never intend to. Life--9.5 years or about 1/2 that of the OEM applied finish on the truck. Never waxed or buffed either the OEM or the single refinish. Just used it and wanted to see it out to failure. I'm more interested in how something fails--other people mostly likely are not if they have other motivations for profit work or resale restorations, wanting to win a trophy, etc.........
4:1 Production Clear failed on roof and hood as you would expect. Factory base never faded that I could tell. The base I used did fade some at about the 6 year mark and then stopped fading until the clear went. All vertical surfaces--doors, fenders tailgate looked pretty good just like the OEM did when it failed on the hood and top. If you live in a very brutal hot humid or high elevation climate, your UV exposure will likely be the culprit with reds, blacks and more extensive fading much, much sooner if left to the weather than more expensive refinish PPG offerings. Wanda is Brazil, China or EU--Automotive Art is made in Poland now according to their history website.
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Just to be clear, you didn’t use SPI production clear, right?
Correct--not SPI production clear.
Treeslayer
Mike
im going to be in the minority in that i prefer single stage. i still remember all the oem clear coat failures, but i guess i cant get past imron lasting thirty years. and can easily be buffed out. i am a dinosaur lol.
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Modern single stage is just clear with added pigment. The single stage will do no better than the clear it is formulated with afaik.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
The original Imron was really nasty stuff to spray health wise. But it was incredibly durable. Today's Imron isn't the same as 30+ years ago.
Whitesnake
Newbie
I got about 14 years out of a daily driver. Dark blue dbc base and Omni 2:1 “hs” clear. I should note the clear was over reduced. It was also cut and buffed. Clear finally started to burn off on horizontal panels. That’s in the brutal northeast with 4 seasons. Lots of salt and cold in winter and 90 degrees and sun in summer. I was pretty impressed for a cheap clear that was reduced and cut and buffed. Rarely washed and probably never waxed.
DIY guy here. Have to agree with above replies, will not spend another dime on eastwood paint.
My experience:
Had to re-do rust repair on front of roof of my 27 year old daily driver after the rattle can duplicolor failed after about 8+ years.
Ordered a pint of Eastwood oem select basecoat in toyota super white II code 040 to spray with my new lvlp gun thinking im buying better paint this time. when I pulled it out in the sun today I noticed the Color was not a good match, several shades too yellow, not much better than the prior duplicolor. Also the pint they sent me was about 9 months past the expiration date on the label fwiw.
My experience:
Had to re-do rust repair on front of roof of my 27 year old daily driver after the rattle can duplicolor failed after about 8+ years.
Ordered a pint of Eastwood oem select basecoat in toyota super white II code 040 to spray with my new lvlp gun thinking im buying better paint this time. when I pulled it out in the sun today I noticed the Color was not a good match, several shades too yellow, not much better than the prior duplicolor. Also the pint they sent me was about 9 months past the expiration date on the label fwiw.
challey71e
Promoted Users
Throw that eastwood paint in the trash.
Email Chad chadspaintsupply@gmail.com ask for Motobase paint in the code you want. Chad does a lot for the restoration community and deserves your support.
This paint is good and quality. Put $50.00 per hour on your time for the extent of the time you spent, stripping, priming, body working, painting, clearing, and re assembling the car. With the labor it makes zero sense to cut corners on primary component.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
I've sprayed about 3 gallons of Wanda single stage and about 4 gallons of Automotive Art's Motocryl single stage. Both are pretty good in terms of coverage. The Wanda single stage 'seems' a little difficult to sand and buff. I have not cut and buffed Motocryl so cannot speak to that. In terms of Motocryl, I sprayed an entire camper with it, just two coats over 2 coats epoxy. It sits outside all the time.I can only speak to 1.5 yr longevity on it thus far, but so far so good. The Wanda single stage is too new to tell, however the mix was not a good match to the original paint code, Ford Candy Apple Red.
The Motocryl mixed 2:1, Wanda mixed 4:1. Where I did notice the most difference was how much more smoothly the Motocryl sprayed than the Wanda, meaning I got significantly less peel or texture with the Motocryl than I did the Wanda for whatever reason. I suspect it is something to do with the paint formulation and how it atomizes. However over the course of 3 gallons, the Motocryl is $500 more expensive.
If it were my own car, I'd use the Motocryl for myself. If it were somebody else's car and they wanted a nice finish but on a budget, I'd do the Wanda. In my case, both the Motocryl and Wanda single stages I sprayed were for somebody else's vehicles or camper, and the camper owner opted for the Motocryl because I recommended a better finish since it was going to be in constant weather, and I did the Wanda for an old truck since it was going to be garage art.
I've sprayed the Motobase base coat on a number of late model parts like hood, bumper cover, tailgate, etc in whites, browns, light blues, enough to get a variance of color spectrum. I don't have toners and have to spray it as mixed, but in all cases the Motobase mix was a very, very close match to the original color. They were all metallics and the coverage was very good as well metallic dispersion. I put Universal clear over all of them because it's what I had on hand.
So in my amateur assessment, Automotive Art > Wanda >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Eastwood. I'd go with Urekem base before Eastwood if you're looking for a budget basecoat, but they might not have the color you need.
The Motocryl mixed 2:1, Wanda mixed 4:1. Where I did notice the most difference was how much more smoothly the Motocryl sprayed than the Wanda, meaning I got significantly less peel or texture with the Motocryl than I did the Wanda for whatever reason. I suspect it is something to do with the paint formulation and how it atomizes. However over the course of 3 gallons, the Motocryl is $500 more expensive.
If it were my own car, I'd use the Motocryl for myself. If it were somebody else's car and they wanted a nice finish but on a budget, I'd do the Wanda. In my case, both the Motocryl and Wanda single stages I sprayed were for somebody else's vehicles or camper, and the camper owner opted for the Motocryl because I recommended a better finish since it was going to be in constant weather, and I did the Wanda for an old truck since it was going to be garage art.
I've sprayed the Motobase base coat on a number of late model parts like hood, bumper cover, tailgate, etc in whites, browns, light blues, enough to get a variance of color spectrum. I don't have toners and have to spray it as mixed, but in all cases the Motobase mix was a very, very close match to the original color. They were all metallics and the coverage was very good as well metallic dispersion. I put Universal clear over all of them because it's what I had on hand.
So in my amateur assessment, Automotive Art > Wanda >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Eastwood. I'd go with Urekem base before Eastwood if you're looking for a budget basecoat, but they might not have the color you need.