Embarrassed to ask

AAE

Learner
Have a dealer customer with an Outlander with horrible failing paint on roof and hood. He doesn't want to have it stripped. Do you have any hack based tips on a somewhat viable solution? It will come with a certified taillight guarantee. He's looking for a used hood.
 
You could just sand and feather it all down with 180, then use a poly primer to lock all of the edges down, sand and paint. I think the poly primer would have a better chance at holding the edges down and not edge mapping more so than a 2K.

We all know the right way to do most jobs, but sometimes its just in the cards... so you have to find the best alternative.
 
I was afraid there was a solution. Any thoughts on what to charge? I'd use an inexpensive base. Not Standox.
 
I was afraid there was a solution. Any thoughts on what to charge? I'd use an inexpensive base. Not Standox.
IDK. Depending on how fast you are 12-20 billable hours? 3-4 hours to sand, 2 hours to apply primer, 3-4 hours to sand/block primer, 3-4 hours for paint. 2 hours for denibbing/re-assembly/cleanup? Just guessing.
 
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Stripping it correctly would only add minimal time to the job. 1-2 hours max. Strip disc, then 180 the metal and epoxy reduced 10%. I say 180 cause if you are careful you could go directly to base after epoxying. We used to do it that way on used car stuff. I know that 80 is what is recommended but this is a used car that the guy wants done on the cheap. So give him cheap.:)
 
The hood. Only a few hours to strip? I was thinking a day. He'd probably pay a couple grand.
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Get a strip disc (cookie disc) on a 4 1/2" angle grinder. Tape all the edges, then duct tape over top of tape. That will protect the fenders, molding on roof etc. The strip disc will make short work of those panels. Probably no more than an hour for each one. Then 80 and epoxy or 180 then 10% reduced epoxy, no sanding and go to base. I would only do the latter if it's a dirt cheap repair. Probably best to 80, epoxy, then 2K and block. Hopefully there are no dings that you have to work.

I'm assuming you are just doing the hood and roof? I was thinking Subaru, my labor time guesses above were for an Outback.....doh! Add 50% to what I estimated above. I think an Outlander is a Mitsubishi? Roof might take longer than an hour, but it won't take all day. Don't know how much trim etc, you have to remove on the roof though. Irregardl;ess the strip disc will be the fastest way to get it off. Probably as fast or faster. to strip disc then quickly hit it with 80, versus trying to sand down the existing surface well enough to paint over.

These strip discs work really well.
 
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Get a strip disc (cookie disc) on a 4 1/2" angle grinder. Tape all the edges, then duct tape over top of tape. That will protect the fenders, molding on roof etc. The strip disc will make short work of those panels. Probably no more than an hour for each one. Then 80 and epoxy or 180 then 10% reduced epoxy, no sanding and go to base. I would only do the latter if it's a dirt cheap repair. Probably best to 80, epoxy, then 2K and block. Hopefully there are no dings that you have to work.

I'm assuming you are just doing the hood and roof? I was thinking Subaru, my labor time guesses above were for an Outback.....doh! Add 50% to what I estimated above. I think an Outlander is a Mitsubishi? Roof might take longer than an hour, but it won't take all day. Don't know how much trim etc, you have to remove on the roof though. Irregardl;ess the strip disc will be the fastest way to get it off. Probably as fast or faster. to strip disc then quickly hit it with 80, versus trying to sand down the existing surface well enough to paint over.

These strip discs work really well.
Can the strip disc create a "non flat" surface out of what should be currently a decently "flat" surface?..Or just it end up as a heavily, flat sanded surface? By flat, i mean, some areas could get sanded more than others with strip disc
 
Get a strip disc (cookie disc) on a 4 1/2" angle grinder. Tape all the edges, then duct tape over top of tape. That will protect the fenders, molding on roof etc. The strip disc will make short work of those panels. Probably no more than an hour for each one. Then 80 and epoxy or 180 then 10% reduced epoxy, no sanding and go to base. I would only do the latter if it's a dirt cheap repair. Probably best to 80, epoxy, then 2K and block. Hopefully there are no dings that you have to work.

I'm assuming you are just doing the hood and roof? I was thinking Subaru, my labor time guesses above were for an Outback.....doh! Add 50% to what I estimated above. I think an Outlander is a Mitsubishi? Roof might take longer than an hour, but it won't take all day. Don't know how much trim etc, you have to remove on the roof though. Irregardl;ess the strip disc will be the fastest way to get it off. Probably as fast or faster. to strip disc then quickly hit it with 80, versus trying to sand down the existing surface well enough to paint over.

These strip discs work really well.
These do work well in stripped my entire car to bare metalnwith them
 
Can the strip disc create a "non flat" surface out of what should be currently a decently "flat" surface?..Or just it end up as a heavily, flat sanded surface? By flat, i mean, some areas could get sanded more than others with strip disc
These discs only remove paint. They don't do anything to metal other than heat it up if you stay on it
 
Could also just mask off the edges, buzz it real quick with 80 and brush on some chemical stripper. Throw a sheet of plastic on it and walk away for an hour. A lot less work and a lot less chance of making gouges with a strip disk. Then just neutralize it, DA the whole thing with 80 to put a tooth in the metal and remove the paint on the edges. Epoxy, base, clear, put money in your pocket. As for what to charge…. What’s the finished quality of your work in relation to the quality of work that your local competitors offer? What do they charge?
 
To be honest it would be cheaper for the customer to strip the roof.

You could strip to metal, sand and paint it. If you use a coating to lock down the existing failing paint it will require another step in sanding.
 
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