Engine Painting

danp76

danp76

Oldtimer
Hi guys, I've painted engines in the past with single stage urethane, and single stage enamel. I have to paint an oldsmobile engine, and I was planning on degreasing it, cleaning it thoroughly with water-based cleaner and then 2 coats of epoxy, let it sit overnight and then ....? enamel, urethane?...rattle can engine paint??...is rattle engine paint just a cheap enamel? or does it work better?
 
I have always preped it like you do and then just rattle can it. Unless of course you are doing some fancy color. I usually do my motors black so rattle can will do. Never had any problems with it.
 
Thanks 540goat, I spoke with Barry this morning, and as usual he guided me in the right direction. Thank you.
 
danp76;21204 said:
Thanks 540goat, I spoke with Barry this morning, and as usual he guided me in the right direction. Thank you.
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Could you post up what he recommended to you for future info for myself and others?

Thanks
-Justin
 
Hi Justin,

Barry suggested that I clean the engine thoroughly, final clean with water-based cleaner. Then I'd apply 2 coats of epoxy, let engine sit overnight, and the next day 2 good coats of a high quality single stage urethane or base coat clear coat, whichever you prefer. Most of the rattle can stuff is just cheap enamel. I was on the right track, but I just wanted to confirm with Barry on the way in which I have been doing engines.
 
Single stage urethane is your best option for durability but bc/cc works too-just keep fuel away from it! Most of the work is definitely in the prep.
 
danp76;21208 said:
Hi Justin,

Barry suggested that I clean the engine thoroughly, final clean with water-based cleaner. Then I'd apply 2 coats of epoxy, let engine sit overnight, and the next day 2 good coats of a high quality single stage urethane or base coat clear coat, whichever you prefer. Most of the rattle can stuff is just cheap enamel. I was on the right track, but I just wanted to confirm with Barry on the way in which I have been doing engines.
Click to expand...


That's what i've done on the ones I have painted, so far so good.
 
I've got one of my own to do this winter. It black with yellow valve covers. maybe will use something like imron for the colors
 
SPI should before long have a gloss black SS urethane that I'm sure exceeds anything currently offered with the Imron name.
 
I have always had GREAT results using high quality primer (including more recently SPI epoxy) and decent single stage urethane. Never use rattle can primer or top coat if you want it to last. I've got boat engines that have salt water around them, etc... holding up very well with nason single stage. with uncatalyzed or rattle can top coat or even primers I've noticed much poorer resistance to harsh, wet environments and things like fuel, antifreeze, brake fluid, oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, etc, etc, etc... thorough degreasing, quality primer, single stage urethane in the choice of your color is a winner. for chrome and polished aluminum under the hood (or out), use etch wash and por-15 glisten clear. spendy, but so far the only clear coat that holds up and adheres well to polished aluminum... Just me experience.
 
nope. it has done great on polished aluminum manifolds so far. it lays on thick, hardens slowly and is tough stuff. I have had it on polished aluminum exhaust manifolds (water jacketed marine exhaust, Imco Powerflows) for a few years without any issue, among other things, but they get the hottest and have been the harshest environment. I've spilled power steering fluid, gas, oil, salt water, fresh water, various cleaners, etc... on them without any noticable impact on the finish. At one point I had the coating partially delaminate from a manifold, BUT it was where the manifold had rotted through the water jacket from the inside and so had engine water pressure pushing out on the coating. Hope this is helpful.
 
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