Epoxy as sealer....does it have to be reduced?

2

242 Motorsports

The reduced (1:1:1) coats are really thin.
Not really a prob except I have no real spray booth, just a makeshift shop.
To sand any dust out in preparation for base, I have to hit it with 600.
I always break through the sealer coat of epoxy to color underneath in a few spots.

Should I shoot a coat of full epoxy followed by a coat of reduced epoxy?

Is there a reason to reduce the epoxy in the sealer coat?

Can I shoot a coat of full epoxy as a sealer coat?
 
This is a problem all of us do-it yourself in make shift garages have. DIRT>
The only thing over reducing does, is speed up the epoxy, used a lot in production shops where the base needs to be applied quick.
The other thing reducer does is make the epoxy lay smoother, so I would look at a couple of other options in your case.

Try for one coat and if you can spray it slick with no reducer, fine or you may need to add an ounce to a mix quart or 10-25%, depend what works best for you.
The less coats sprayed the cleaner it will be and with less reducer, if you do need to sand a few spots the next day, you are less likely to break through.
I like it unreduced and next day, I will hit the tops with 800-1000 wets, just to slick out and take care of any nubs.

There is no one perfect way but whatever way for your style of painting and booth situation that works the best.
 
If you need the speed of the 1:1:1, you also may apply a coat of base over it before denibbing, then spot in the sanded areas with base before proceeding with the second coat. This works with bases that can be sanded, and is actually a recommended technique with some manufacturers and certain products.
 
I've done the sealer/base/denib numerous times and it works just fine. I've also done it with Intercoat clear.
 
Bob Hollinshead;24793 said:
I've done the sealer/base/denib numerous times and it works just fine. I've also done it with Intercoat clear.
Click to expand...

You know, I have thought about that before, never have tried it but glad to know it works, now I will offer as an option.
Thanks.
 
Success.

Shot a coat with 10% reducer.

I then used 600 wet on a couple of rough
spots and red scotchbrite to finish it up.

Slick and smooth, no break thru.

Almost ready for basecoat now.
 
In the perfect paint job, the directions say a double shot glass of reducer per quart. How many ounces is a double shot glass?I think it's two, but as you can tell, I don;t drink. Second how does one decide between 1:1:1 and 1:1: double shot glass for the sealer?
What if I only have 870, not 885?
 
If I am using epoxy as my primer over bare fiberglass and as a blocking layer, can I just shoot base right over the sanded epoxy without another seal coat? My plan was to block the epoxy and reshoot epoxy as needed until it was ready for base. I figure I would finish sand the epoxy with 400 grit, or should I use a different grit? I'm using Wanda base.
 
I used intercoat as described to sand out dust. It was tough to wet sand. Don't remember exactly but may have started with 600 and went to 500. The parts were plastic, they required ad-pro, a coat of epoxy as sealer, then intercoat knowing the plastic was going to have dust no matter what I did. Worked great just hard sanding, SPI intercoat is a must have in my cabinet.
 
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