Epoxy as seam sealer

John Long

John Long

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Don't you all laugh at me. :))

What would happen if you took your 3 oz of left over Epoxy and put it in a jar for 72 hours or until it reached the proper viscosity and used it as a brush on seam sealer?

The only issue I might worry about would be shrinking or cracking.

John
 
I'd say shrinkage. I have a few leftover epoxy 'pancakes' that have shrunk while sitting in a cup.

Mike
 
I agree. I have a 1" thick cracked hockey puck of epoxy. A 2" thick (only cracked on top) of 2k regular build. And a whole cup (32 oz.) of Evercoat G2 but it did not crack. And a 3/4" thick puck of universal clear. I just saved them to see what they would do. Except for the G2, that was my fault by adding too much activator while talking on the phone. LOL.

I'd epoxy the bottom, seam seal it, and shoot topcoat on top. Thats how I did my floor pans. I used black epoxy on the bottom and grey inside the car.
 
I think this technique is best used for rust pits and the like, not seams. Although epoxy is quite flexible, expecting it to bridge a seam long-term might be asking a lot.
 
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crashtech said:
I think this technique is best used for rust pits and the like, not seams. Although epoxy is quite flexible, expecting it to bridge a seam long-term might be asking a lot.
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You may be correct. I think what I will do is take a chip brush and try to force some epoxy up into the lapped seams and over the weld seams. If I put 3 coats or so on the seams with an 8-10 hour flash time, I can sand with 180 before I spray the entire floor. That should help me get some protection along the flange joints as well as provide some moderate hiding of the welded seams. Also, after I then spray the epoxy, I can be sure of being ready to shoot the SS top coat within the seven day window.

I do not want to have to sand this complete floor pan again but I don't trust the weldthru primer to offer much protection either. I believe this will provide a good compromise

John
 
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