Epoxy over lead

C

challey71e

Promoted Users
Found some lead as a repair on my car tonight while sanding a rocker. It looks like a good job.

Should I grind it all out, or can I epoxy over it as per normal?
 
If you were using aluminum oxide sandpaper you will have a problem. When you sand lead with aluminum oxide paper it forms something called intergranular corrosion and will show later after you have painted the vehicle. If you have to sand lead it should only be with silicone carbide paper. Most wet/dry paper is silicon carbide but you would need to verify that whatever you are using is.

What I would do in your situation is anywhere you exposed lead by sanding, get some silicon carbide paper and wet sand the lead thoroughly. Very thoroughly. Wet sand so that you contain the lead particles. You want to sand enough to get rid of any al-ox that may remain. Even if that means sanding a low in the lead. Then epoxy over the lead. Then glaze it if it is low over the epoxy. Never over the lead itself.

If you do nothing and re-coat it, it will show later in the form of lines and the outline of the lead. Sort of like sand scratches but not exactly. Many many cars that have leaded seams and have been refinished look this way.
 
very interesting. i have not worked on anything with lead except for maybe a small handful of times my whole career and never heard of this. i guess if you were going to use a da or block then cubitron or sunmight purple would be the way to go as that is ceramic.
 
All very good advice, Silicone Carbide or Ceramic will do, and I will add that if there is paint near the lead it will also be contaminated.

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I didn’t know this. I previously sanded the sail panels under the vinyl top of my Cougar. Glad I saw this before I start back on it. I don‘t remember what I used for abrasive paper at the time and would have just epoxied over it as-is…
 
MAKZ06 said:
I didn’t know this. I previously sanded the sail panels under the vinyl top of my Cougar. Glad I saw this before I start back on it. I don‘t remember what I used for abrasive paper at the time and would have just epoxied over it as-is…
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Glad it might help you out.:) I know sanding with a DA was mentioned but I would recommend you sand wet with 220-320 paper (silicon carbide). Lead sands easily. It will keep the lead from getting in the air and you ingesting it or getting it in your eyes. And keep from contaminating your work area with lead dust.
And wear nitrile/rubber/latex gloves when doing it. Lead accumulates over time so anything you can do to keep from being exposed to it helps.
 
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Whoa learned something new. I was using a hybrid al ox, ceramic 3m disc. Thanks for the tip and helpful info. I will wet sand it down and then proceed with priming.
 
The old guy who taught me a lot, told me this about 2 days into my mentorship with him when he smacked on the back of the head :oops: as I was sanding with al-ox paper over a leaded seam on a nearly new Fox body Mustang that was in the Shop. I didn't do it again. :D Later I found out the explanation for why you don't do it. Back in the day when lead was the predominant body filler, guys never sanded it at all. They filed it. Start with a fairly coarse body file about 8-10 TPI then finish with a fine body file around 20 TPI. Then prime. How it also was done at the factory.
 
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Chris_Hamilton said:
The old guy who taught me a lot, told me this about 2 days into my mentorship with him when he smacked on the back of the head :oops: as I was sanding with al-ox paper over a leaded seam on a nearly new Fox body Mustang that was in the Shop. I didn't do it again. :D Later I found out the explanation for why you don't do it. Back in the day when lead was the predominant body filler, guys never sanded it at all. They filed it. Start with a fairly coarse body file about 8-10 TPI then finish with a fine body file around 20 TPI. Then prime. How it also was done at the factory.
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I’ve still got all my step dad‘s files and lead paddles from when he used to work on he and his friend‘s hobby cars back in the 50s and early 60s. He brazed-in the floor pan patches in the 68 Stang I bought in high school. I still occasionally use his old Oxy Acetylene torch, and my current compressor was his 80gal 1943 Kellog American… still going strong.
 
New news to me. I have used lead in the past (sparingly) but damned if I remember what I sanded with. Have a peanut motorcycle tank that I finished a small dent with lead. Stud gun can only get close but of course can't planish a closed tank. Still bear metal so it can be saved.
I'm an old guy, I'll pass it along. Got to be careful who I smack in the head though, might get punched back!;)
 
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