Continuing form the other thread, probably better it is on it's own anyway.
In the year 2001 (I kid you not) I started on my current project. At the time, I didn't know what I didn't know. I had the car (alkaline) dipped and set to doing the metal work. The dipper said they applied a "phosphating" solution, and that the car wouldn't flash rust for at least a short while.
Like all projects, the beginning went fast, my plan was to get the metal work done in 3-6 months (lol), send it to a body shop and have it primed and painted. Then I started to loose steam, ran into several times the amount of damage I thought I had. About 6 months into it, the car started to turn red.
To keep flash rust at bay, I used Picklex 20. I had no idea that it would lead to primer issues down the road, i just wanted to keep the car from rusting further while I worked on it.
About a year or two ago, I found my way to the hottrodders board and found that there is a downside to chemical rust treating.
The good points:
1) according to to the other thread, picklex is a weak phosphoric acid solution, less than 10%,
2) I haven't put any on in a long time
3) Most of the metal that was picklexed was removed anyway
4) Most new metal was ecoated and never picklexed
5) Of all the picklexed metal still left, the only exterior pieces that will still be on the car is the decklid and the top of the cowl, and the A pillars.
6) I sand blasted the most areas that were picklexed prior to priming. The areas I didn't blast were hit with a 3" 80 grit roloc disc. (I haven't done anything to the decklid or cowl top yet.)
Car has been primed on with SPI inside and out The bottom of the car, and engine compartment I plan to leave in SPI black, when I get it all smoothed out, a last coat sprayed with some reducer in it to knock down some of the sheen.
The inside of the car probably won't get top coated, except inside the trunk, and the dash section that shows.
Before I go any further, I think I need to test to make sure the acid was sufficiently neutralized. How is to best to do that? Should I spray some urethane top coat on the bottom, roll it over on the rotisserie and leave it in the sun to see what happens?
The bottom needs filler in a lot of places, should I purposely sand through, put some filler on, then later grind through it to make sure it is cured?
Should I put filler blobs on top of the epoxy in various random places to see if they stick?
Any help I appreciated. I actually had trouble sleeping over this last night. After a decade of work, I certainly don't want my paint to fall off.
In the year 2001 (I kid you not) I started on my current project. At the time, I didn't know what I didn't know. I had the car (alkaline) dipped and set to doing the metal work. The dipper said they applied a "phosphating" solution, and that the car wouldn't flash rust for at least a short while.
Like all projects, the beginning went fast, my plan was to get the metal work done in 3-6 months (lol), send it to a body shop and have it primed and painted. Then I started to loose steam, ran into several times the amount of damage I thought I had. About 6 months into it, the car started to turn red.
To keep flash rust at bay, I used Picklex 20. I had no idea that it would lead to primer issues down the road, i just wanted to keep the car from rusting further while I worked on it.
About a year or two ago, I found my way to the hottrodders board and found that there is a downside to chemical rust treating.
The good points:
1) according to to the other thread, picklex is a weak phosphoric acid solution, less than 10%,
2) I haven't put any on in a long time
3) Most of the metal that was picklexed was removed anyway
4) Most new metal was ecoated and never picklexed
5) Of all the picklexed metal still left, the only exterior pieces that will still be on the car is the decklid and the top of the cowl, and the A pillars.
6) I sand blasted the most areas that were picklexed prior to priming. The areas I didn't blast were hit with a 3" 80 grit roloc disc. (I haven't done anything to the decklid or cowl top yet.)
Car has been primed on with SPI inside and out The bottom of the car, and engine compartment I plan to leave in SPI black, when I get it all smoothed out, a last coat sprayed with some reducer in it to knock down some of the sheen.
The inside of the car probably won't get top coated, except inside the trunk, and the dash section that shows.
Before I go any further, I think I need to test to make sure the acid was sufficiently neutralized. How is to best to do that? Should I spray some urethane top coat on the bottom, roll it over on the rotisserie and leave it in the sun to see what happens?
The bottom needs filler in a lot of places, should I purposely sand through, put some filler on, then later grind through it to make sure it is cured?
Should I put filler blobs on top of the epoxy in various random places to see if they stick?
Any help I appreciated. I actually had trouble sleeping over this last night. After a decade of work, I certainly don't want my paint to fall off.
