epoxy sealer 1:1:1 / 50% reduction is this what one coat should look like?

B

BB6

I've searched and can't find what it should look like after 1 coat. They say spray it like base coat but I'm still practicing on learning how to spray base coat and cannot find any pictures so I can get a visual. So I'm just going to post pictures to see if this is would show you what I mean. First 2 pictures are one coat, 2nd picture is 2 coats. Is it supposed to look like that or is it supposed to hide the bottom coats completely? The primer sealer videos I've seen on youtube basically 100% hide the under coats but since I'm using the epoxy reduced I can't find any pictures or videos. I was going to post in the main thread with all my other questions but this might help someone like me instead of searching through my other thread.

EDIT: Hey Barry I know i asked you this on the phone but since there was no way for you to see what I meant, I posted pictures here. One coat for you and one coat to me may look completely different, so if you do read this hope these pictures can show you what I meant.

DSC_0023_zpsh3ptfefk.jpg~original


DSC_0022_zpsxy7n4hvl.jpg~original


and this was 2 coats

DSC_0021_zpseqn9pxwp.jpg~original
 
Looks like it is way over reduced. Check your mixing cup that you used should be 1:1 plus 5-50 reduced your mixing it how? As a sealer
 
It was 8 ounces of epoxy, 8 of activator, 8 of reducer so it was reduced 50%.
 
So if i wanted 24 ounces of sealer that is reduced 50% how many ounces of each component is it? 8 ounces of epoxy and 8 of activator = 16 ounces and i added 8 ounces reducer which is 50% reduction which is also 1:1:1 right? Maybe saying 1:1:1 is confusing. I'm planning to mix 25% next time. Have you sprayed it at 50% reduction before or what percentage do you reduce as sealer? Thanks
 
Tekna prolite. 26 psi, te20 cap, 1.4 tip, fluid control 2-3 turns out any more than that it runs like crazy, fan was about 8-10 inches wide over lap was 50%. Maybe the speed and distance could be the problem? I tried slowing down and got runs though. If any one has a picture of what it looks like reduced one coat looks like that would help a lot. In the mean time i will practice adjusting my gun more but it seemed pretty good.
 
BB6;37296 said:
So if i wanted 24 ounces of sealer that is reduced 50% how many ounces of each component is it? 8 ounces of epoxy and 8 of activator = 16 ounces and i added 8 ounces reducer which is 50% reduction which is also 1:1:1 right? Maybe saying 1:1:1 is confusing. I'm planning to mix 25% next time. Have you sprayed it at 50% reduction before or what percentage do you reduce as sealer? Thanks
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I have always considered 1:1:1 to be 100% reduction. If you want 24 oz of epoxy mix it 1:1:.5 which is 10 oz epoxy, 10 oz activator and 5 oz reducer which will give you 25 sprayable ounces. Hope this helps. It is confusing.
 
That's 25% reduction which I'm planning to test next time i get a chance. Does it cover pretty good at 25% and how long do you let that flash before base? And do you get any texture at that percentage or you just base right over it once it flashes? And yeah that helps thanks.

For any one that has sprayed it at 50% does the coverage on my first 2 pictures look correct? it was sprayed over gray 2k. Im only asking because when I don't reduce epoxy it lays nice with 1-2 coats I just get texture but i can't base over that. I been trying 50% and it always comes out extremely thin and transparent. I'm sure some where around 25% reduction will be the golden ticket for me but i am still curious on the 50% reduction.
 
bb6, thats always how i mix it as a sealer. looks just like your pics. its just going down like its an adhesion promotor so you dont really need any build. its not going to hide any imperfections but imo that should be done in previous steps.
 
Perfect thank you, I've read that you mix it that way on the forums but never had a picture to compare to. I've also read, like you said, to spray like adhesion promoter but I've never sprayed that. I'm going to try 25% next time though because at 50% if you hesitate for one second like i did, it'll run like crazy. How long do you let it flash at that 50%? I've read any where from 10-30 minutes is what people are doing but I'm just curious at your flash time.
 
When I spray epoxy as my sealer it's not translucent.

Put half the amount of reducer you were putting in it before, or less. You should be able to create uniform surface to Apply your base.
My advice. Every application is different....
 
Thanks for your help. I will definitely try the way you mix it. I think when it's 50% reduced and it's transparent it makes me want to apply it heavy to cover but then it runs. Just one last question, how long do you let it flash before base at that mix ratio. Thanks again to every one, hopefully this thread will help people out as much as it helped me with epoxy sealer.
 
I follow Barry's perfect paint job routine and let it set for 2 hours. I am not a professional by any means so I just follow Barry's perfect paint job guidelines. I think some people just shoot it like its the first coat of base. If I get a little dirt in it I just lightly sand it out.
 
In one shot it looks too dry, but in the other that shows a reflection, it has the correct sheen. I'd say that if you are getting it to be uniform and looking like the shot that shows the door jamb, you are right on the money.

The problem with sanding 1:1:1 epoxy is that you will sand right through it. If you want to sand nibs, sometimes it is better to get a coat of base on, sand the nibs, spot base on all the sanded spots followed immediately by the next coat of base all over.
 
crashtech;37318 said:
In one shot it looks too dry, but in the other that shows a reflection, it has the correct sheen. I'd say that if you are getting it to be uniform and looking like the shot that shows the door jamb, you are right on the money.

The problem with sanding 1:1:1 epoxy is that you will sand right through it. If you want to sand nibs, sometimes it is better to get a coat of base on, sand the nibs, spot base on all the sanded spots followed immediately by the next coat of base all over.
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Never thought of that and seems like a good idea, next time i will try that. When you spot something like that would you let that flash then coat entire panel? Thanks

JCB;37317 said:
I follow Barry's perfect paint job routine and let it set for 2 hours. I am not a professional by any means so I just follow Barry's perfect paint job guidelines. I think some people just shoot it like its the first coat of base. If I get a little dirt in it I just lightly sand it out.
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Youre more professional than me that's for sure, i literally knew nothing about painting 2 months ago as i was planning to let my friend paint over my body work. I feel better me doing the work my self and trying to perfect it than letting some one else do it. Thanks to all of you again
 
If you follow the advice of the people that post on this forum you will learn a lot. The one thing about this site is that there is not any mis-information given. It is monitored by people that are in the body shop profession and have a lot of experience and are well aware of all the mistakes. Take your time and you can learn to paint your own car. You are going to make mistakes but that is how you learn. You have the right attitude so go for it!
 
BB6;37320 said:
Never thought of that and seems like a good idea, next time i will try that. When you spot something like that would you let that flash then coat entire panel? Thanks
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Kinda depends on conditions and how much you think you need to spot in, but on a complete, if you spot the sand-throughs in about the same order as you will go around the vehicle, and you keep the spots medium and not real wet, you can get right back on it and do a full coat as soon as the spots are finished. But it really depends on too many things, in the winter for example this might not be good advice...
 
BB6;37320 said:
Never thought of that and seems like a good idea, next time i will try that. When you spot something like that would you let that flash then coat entire panel? Thanks
Click to expand...
Kinda depends on conditions and how much you think you need to spot in, but on a complete, if you spot the sand-throughs in about the same order as you will go around the vehicle, and you keep the spots medium and not real wet, you can get right back on it and do a full coat as soon as the spots are finished. But it really depends on too many things, in the winter for example this might not be good advice...
 
1:1:1 is 50% reduction.
The first one is Part A, the second for Part B which mixed together produces your epoxy and then you had an equal part of reducer. Thus 8 oz Part A plus 8 oz part B = 16 oz of epoxy unreduced. Adding an equal portion of reducer (8 oz) gives a 50% reduction.
 
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