Maybe this will help (maybe not
) It applies whether you are doing only epoxy (I think you are) or if you are blocking with 2K urethane or Poly.
Ideally you want to do all your "correcting", blocking (bring up lows, work down highs) in a grit no coarser than 180. Block and reapply till you have all your lows brought up and any highs worked down. to the point you would consider it straight. Then you would re-apply 2-3 coats of epoxy (or 2K or poly). At this point you are no longer correcting but are now leveling what you just applied to fill in any 180 scratches and to refine the surface to prepare it for your final finish.
This is where I'm getting hung up. It sounds like you do this daily and stay within the re-coat window. You might get it from this stage to finish within a week. It sounds like you resume with 220 and finish it out quickly. For me it will be months. By the time I will resume with 220-600 will be after the previous coats have sat for months.
I sometimes do this starting with 220 using my blocks (especially if you applied 3 coats) or 320 using my blocks (done more if I applied 2 coats). I guide coat it cause that's what I'm used to and block it. It goes quick doing it with 220 and I don't use much if any pressure. After 220, I'll go over it again with 320 on my blocks to remove the 220 scratches. Little to no pressure. Once that is done, I switch to more flexible/smaller blocks and hand pads and do a final sand with 600 wet. At this point you are not correcting at all, just refining and removing the 320 scratches. Once I go over it, it is done. Ready for sealer then paint. Using epoxy for your sealer anywhere from 1:1:25% to 1:1:50% will give you excellent adhesion to your surface.