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danp76
I've been using feather fill G2, but want to try the super build, can I spray it over 2 medium coats of 1:1 epoxy the next day? thanks guys.
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danp76
I sprayed the epoxy a couple of hours ago, and it's in the 80's in the shop until tomorrow morning, then back into the 70's.
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jeremyb
I'd say as long as you have the metal temp over 70 degrees for 24 hours and you let each coat of epoxy flash well, then you should be ok. The superbuild isn't as fast setting as a lot of other poly's. I've been burned a time or two like crash said when using sikkens or spies poly. Those poly's set up pretty quick and I went over a full coat of a epoxy unreduced in a few hours even with temperatures in the 80's. Just a learning experience back when I first used SPI epoxy. I usually seal any bare metal with the epoxy reduced about 10% and in a few hours I'm spraying the superbuild.
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danp76
Jeremyb, I sprayed two medium coats (with a 1.4) with 20 min flash between. Shop is at least 80 degrees from when sprayed around 12 noon, until tomorrow morning...think I'm at risk? I called Evercoat and they recommend 72hrs on all their polyester products. I spoke with Barry and he suggests 48hrs, and if I can allow for it to go longer, even better.
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Bob Hollinshead
It's all relative to how well the epoxy is curing. Things like mixing the epoxy a day in advance, application thickness, and temperature...they all factor in. It's usually 12-24hrs between epoxy and poly for me and no problems. But I can see the benefits of waiting 48-72 hrs especially if the epoxy is curing slow.
Jim C
Oldtimer
i agree. the epoxy should really sit for awhile when putting poly over it. if its not locked up the epoxy will soak up the solvents out of the poly and get gummy. if its sealed like that it could take weeks for the epoxy to cure out and really cause problems down the road. summer i wait 24hrs. winter definitely 48. if its just a thin sealer coat of epoxy then thats a different story and can be pushed a little faster but why rush it.
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bomccorkle
I like above always err on the side of caution. I always give epoxy 48-72 he's before a poly primer.
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danp76
Hi Crashtech, at home I always measure with infrared thermometer, as I know how air temps can very compared to surface temperatures. I'm going to wait 24hrs to be safe. In this case, at work I'm going by the shop air temperature and it's hot in there! Sometimes uncomfortably warm in shop and heat is left blasting all night, and often unbearably hot by the morning.
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y5mgisi
Found this post doing some searching. It answered my initial question but I have a follow up. What would be the proper procedure for applying epoxy over feather fill in preparation for base coat? I'm assuming one wet coat followed by a reduced coat?
shine
Member
there is no substitute for cure time . over the years i have learned that an extra day of cure beats 6 weeks of starting over every time .
i push flash times to the outer limits . even when it is super hot here in texas things are not always what they seem . it will flash off top to bottom when hot .
i push flash times to the outer limits . even when it is super hot here in texas things are not always what they seem . it will flash off top to bottom when hot .
I agree with Shine. What you think is good might rear it's head out in the sun after a couple days baking. Shrinkage is the biggest issue that will show first, showing sand scratches, etc. underneath all the finished product. Some colors you can get away with another round of wetsand and buffing but others, like silver you won't be a lucky. Even the rewetsand and buff might not be the end either. So I say give it time to do it's thing and all will go well.